Bad Day Mast Raising

[Fred]

The gin pole for my H26 is 1.25 inch OD and has 0.125 wall thickness. It appears to be SS certainly not aluminum based on the weight of it.

The initial force to raise the mast on my boat (so far I have done it 3 times) is significant. I don't think that I could lift it without using the winch. Actually what I find easier is to pass the main sheet through the rope clutch and lift the rope between the clutch and the block (in anchor well), take up the slack through the clutch and repeat several times before using only the winch to complete the job. I plan to inspect the spinnaker halyard, sheave and main sheet prior to the next raising.

 

[Kermit]

I think TWalker is correct about the mast raising pole being stainless steel. Some crazy guy on this forum in the past recommended inserting a large wood dowel that will fit inside the raising pole for extra structural reinforcement. Can't remember the crazy guy's name at the moment. Seems like his name is similar to a male birth control method. There may be a "Dave" in there somewhere. :dance: BrianW

He's everyone's favorite crazy uncle.

 

[twalker H260]

Entmejia I found the diagram you referenced and it is marked as for the 23.5 rather than the 240. In the thread the original poster found the store here sold the gin pole for the 240. Perhaps you could contac them for the specs? In the thread with the diagram crazy thought the 26/23.5/240 used the same pole but obviously there is a difference based on your experience. Possibly the 240 has a heavier mast section than the 23.5. If your modified design doesn't work I would try using the pole designed for the 260. Drawings for it are available but they don't seem to spec the length.

Let me know if you need a link to the 260 pole drawings.

 

[entmejia]

Entmejia I found the diagram you referenced and it is marked as for the 23.5 rather than the 240. In the thread the original poster found the store here sold the gin pole for the 240. Perhaps you could contac them for the specs? In the thread with the diagram crazy thought the 26/23.5/240 used the same pole but obviously there is a difference based on your experience. Possibly the 240 has a heavier mast section than the 23.5. If your modified design doesn't work I would try using the pole designed for the 260. Drawings for it are available but they don't seem to spec the length.

Let me know if you need a link to the 260 pole drawings.

Thanks, oddly the 23.5 seems to have a heavier mast per U.S. Spars. Probably the sticking sheave didn't help. Plus the furler seems to add a significant amount of weight to the top of the mast which probably doesn't help especially as it starts to raise. If you don't mind, please send the drawings for the 260 pole.

 

[twalker H260]

Here's the link to the drawing:

http://www.marlow-hunter.com/export/Model-Information/260_1997_2005/260 Mast R pole.pdf

In the notes they state the tube wall thickness as .065". I believe as others have noted that the wall thickness should be .125. I will try to measure the length of my pole in the next day or so for you. (Likely slightly longer than what's needed for the 240)

 

[entmejia]

Here's the link to the drawing:

http://www.marlow-hunter.com/export/Model-Information/260_1997_2005/260 Mast R pole.pdf

In the notes they state the tube wall thickness as .065". I believe as others have noted that the wall thickness should be .125. I will try to measure the length of my pole in the next day or so for you. (Likely slightly longer than what's needed for the 240)

Thanks! According to the diagram it's 97 inches long, or slightly more than 8 feet, that's pretty long.

 

[twalker H260]

Sounds about the right length for our 260. 240 should be slightly shorter. Length should be from aft of mast horizontally to a point drawn vertically through eyebolt located at front of anchor locker.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

entjemia;

Mast raising poles varied with the boats as to metals, thickness, lengths and so forth.

Looking at the information, something appears to be binding and without further investigation, I am at a loss. If you want to talk with me, send me your phone number and location and I will call. If not, I will give you my number and a time to call.

Crazy Dave

 

[entmejia]

entjemia;

Mast raising poles varied with the boats as to metals, thickness, lengths and so forth.

Looking at the information, something appears to be binding and without further investigation, I am at a loss. If you want to talk with me, send me your phone number and location and I will call. If not, I will give you my number and a time to call.

Crazy Dave

Hey Dave - thanks for the offer. You can PM me your number and a good time and I'll give you a call at your convenience. Thanks again.

 

[Igetit]

Is it necessary to loosen the side stays on a 260/270 before dropping the mast?

 

[Kermit]

Is it necessary to loosen the side stays on a 260/270 before dropping the mast?

No. It's a B&R rig so they don't have to be loosened. Pretty sweet. The downside is not as good downwind performance. I like not having a back stay.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

send me an email vial this forum email with phone number

 

[Mike in Cape Cod]

Correct way to use the gin pole

Why was your halyard sliding up and down in the mast cutout as you lowered it? The halyard should be cleated at the mast base, run up through the sheave, down to the gin pole, and then the other side of the gin pole would have the tackle that raises the mast. The halyard would be in a fixed position with respect to the mast, though of course in your situation, that one spot would be pulled against the aluminum cutout edge. Do you somehow try to use the jib halyard itself to pull up the mast?

"isaksp00 " is the only one that mentioned the CORRECT way to raise the mast. That is by using the cleated jib halyard connected to the wire loop on one side of the top of the gin pole and the other loop connected to your main sheet block and tackle and the other end of the block and tackle connected to the fitting inside the anchor locker. The block and tackle (Main Sheet) is then used to lift the mast, NOT using the winch/halyard. It does help to have someone standing in the cockpit lifting the mast the first few feet, but I have raised the mast alone many times, both while on the trailer or in the water. This method puts downward pressure on the gin pole and cannot cause it to bend.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

hello mike in cape cod. Hope you are doing well.

If the mainsheet is long enough, I taught my customers who were raising the mast alone with a bad back, to run that mainsheet back via deck organizer if available to the winch and winch it up. My 10 year old daughter use to do this at shows and on TV. I designed the system originally for the 23.5 and know many tricks that a lot folks do not know about mast raising.

Entmajia; email me at davecondon@mindspring.com

 

[entmejia]

Dave, Mike, thanks for the info. Went sailing this Sunday and did a very successful solo mast raising using the method outlined in the owner's manual. A few things helped: removed furler (made everything lighter and more managable); new in mast jib block and halyard; replaced two missing mast foot rivits; installed a Johnson quick release at the end of the forestay and made a new gin pole and 8ft mast crutch. Also used large rubber corks at the shroud attachments to make sure they didn't bind while raising. I ran the mainsheet back to the cockpit and lifted the mast with one hand while using the mainsheet tackle with the other - by the time it reached the limit of my reach (I'm 6' 3'') it could be raised easily with just the mainsheet. I was very surprised at how easy it is when all the parts work correctly and in the manner described in the manual - lowering was easy too. I'll try to post pics before too long.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I helped write that but feel free to contact me as there are a few tweaks I can advise you with. Good to hear that you were successful.