This is for the Hunter 376 with 3jh2e engine, though I'm sure other boats will be similar.
First, thanks to all the previous posters on the topic! It was a big help to read what others had done. I see the original thread is closed, so added a new one.
The info on getting the right angle pliers to remove the impeller is right on. Can't imagine another tool that would work. There may be a "puller" made for the task, but on this engine the space between starter and pump is so small, it's doubtful it would fit. Found these pliers worked fine:
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-90-angle-long-reach-pliers-39539.html
Previously, some removed the alternator, while others cut an access hatch through the head compartment. After considering the situation for some time, decided the hatch was really mandatory. The starter, solenoid, water pump, engine mounts, and several wiring connections are now easily accessible. The hatch is 15" wide by 18" high, made to match near the aft and lower edges of the engine cover.
It was a bit time consuming to cut and trim the hatch, but just didn't feel comfortable knowing all that stuff was so hard to get to.
When replacing the impeller, be sure all the blades are going the right direction. The manual says to give it twist while installing, but it's not easy. Had to do it three times to get it right. Some posts say the blades will be OK no matter how they they are installed initially, as the first time the engine starts they'll self align. Not so. I found the previously installed impeller had one blade still bent backwards. While that probably only reduced the output slightly, I have to believe it would shorten the life of the impeller.
Later on... I read to use an electrical tie wrap to keep all the blades in the right position. That's a good idea!... will use next time.
First, thanks to all the previous posters on the topic! It was a big help to read what others had done. I see the original thread is closed, so added a new one.
The info on getting the right angle pliers to remove the impeller is right on. Can't imagine another tool that would work. There may be a "puller" made for the task, but on this engine the space between starter and pump is so small, it's doubtful it would fit. Found these pliers worked fine:
http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-90-angle-long-reach-pliers-39539.html
Previously, some removed the alternator, while others cut an access hatch through the head compartment. After considering the situation for some time, decided the hatch was really mandatory. The starter, solenoid, water pump, engine mounts, and several wiring connections are now easily accessible. The hatch is 15" wide by 18" high, made to match near the aft and lower edges of the engine cover.
It was a bit time consuming to cut and trim the hatch, but just didn't feel comfortable knowing all that stuff was so hard to get to.
When replacing the impeller, be sure all the blades are going the right direction. The manual says to give it twist while installing, but it's not easy. Had to do it three times to get it right. Some posts say the blades will be OK no matter how they they are installed initially, as the first time the engine starts they'll self align. Not so. I found the previously installed impeller had one blade still bent backwards. While that probably only reduced the output slightly, I have to believe it would shorten the life of the impeller.
Later on... I read to use an electrical tie wrap to keep all the blades in the right position. That's a good idea!... will use next time.