We've found one excellent one in the past (Heritage Marine) but he's apparently too busy to help us. Our refrigerator and freezer aren't working at all. This has been a slowly deteriorating situation since we purchased the boat in 2007. Does anybody know of a good marine refrigeration specialist in the greater Detroit metropolitan area who we could call? Thanks ~
Marine refrigeration Detroit area
- Thread starter Carolyn M
- Start date
Steadily deteriorating I understand. But since 2007? Yikes! 
Sometimes these things can be fixed DIY. Have you tried Richard Kollmann? He has a great website about boat fridge problems. http://www.kollmann-marine.com/ He responds to questions quite promptly, but you should read his website first.
Sometimes these things can be fixed DIY. Have you tried Richard Kollmann? He has a great website about boat fridge problems. http://www.kollmann-marine.com/ He responds to questions quite promptly, but you should read his website first.
And we've had it worked on a handful of times since then. So probably not a DIY project but I appreciate the response and I'll take a look at Richard's site - CarolynSteadily deteriorating I understand. But since 2007? Yikes!
Sometimes these things can be fixed DIY. Have you tried Richard Kollmann? He has a great website about boat fridge problems. http://www.kollmann-marine.com/ He responds to questions quite promptly, but you should read his website first.
It was OK for the first few years
My guess is we're going to need a new fridge and freezer.
Carolyn, If your refrigeration unit or units are small 12 volt systems 90% of the time the boat operator can correct a malfunctioning system DIY without special training. Most of the time when calling a refrigeration tech will do more harm than good on these small systems. My services are free so let me see if I can help you.
I need a better description of problem. Who is manufacturer of system?
Does Compressor run and get Warm?
Is there frost on any part of system?
Is system air or seawater cooled?
Can you email me pictures of system?
I need a better description of problem. Who is manufacturer of system?
Does Compressor run and get Warm?
Is there frost on any part of system?
Is system air or seawater cooled?
Can you email me pictures of system?
Details
The Freezer which is a separate similar looking unit. The problem with that is the compressor comes on, kicks up to 15 amps draw then shuts down. No blinking lights on this one.
2. No frost on any parts.
3. Not sure exactly where to look for heat, but the freezer at least does not run long enough.
4. It is air cooled.
1. Adler/Barbour. Two units, one for Ref, the other Freezer. They have two different symptoms. The Ref has long been a problem, with cycling continuously. Repairs have reduced it for awhile but then it happens again. The last repair involved tightening the cables. At present, it cycles, draws about 5 amps, then a red light begins flashing. According to the legend, that red light indicates low battery, less than 10 volts, but the batteries are fully charged.
The Freezer which is a separate similar looking unit. The problem with that is the compressor comes on, kicks up to 15 amps draw then shuts down. No blinking lights on this one.
2. No frost on any parts.
3. Not sure exactly where to look for heat, but the freezer at least does not run long enough.
4. It is air cooled.
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There really isnt anyone skilled at marine refer in the det area. I went around and around for 2 years. Fixed it myself with help from seafrost.
Most refer techs solution is to add more referigerant. Sometimes a very bad idea.
Good luck.
Try richard kollmanns help. He's the best. Buy his book too!
Most refer techs solution is to add more referigerant. Sometimes a very bad idea.
Good luck.
Try richard kollmanns help. He's the best. Buy his book too!
Sounds like both units have an electrical problem. I can not tell from picture if these units have BD50 compressors and are model CU100. The name plate on stainless base will tell model and compressor size. In 1995 there were a few of Adler Barbour units built with BD3 compressors and their trouble LED would only indicate low voltage spikes. All units with BD35 and BD50 compressor Troubleshooting LEDs flash a code every 4 seconds. ONE flash indicates an electrical low voltage spike cased by boats electrical system. TWO flashes is a bad fan drawing more than ½ amp. Three, 4 and 5 flashes repeated every 4 seconds identify other troubles.
Please confirm compressor and unit model number.
REFRIGERATOR system
I am assuming this is a BD50 compressor count quick flashes together every 4 seconds, is it one two or more.
FREEZER system
If these are CU100 model Adler Barbour units there is a 15 amp fuse at top Rt corner of stainless steel box remove this fuse and look inside to see if fuse holder is burnt.
Are both units positioned the same as in this picture? I would like to see a picture of stainless box where wires are connected and the Danfoss electronic module on back side of picture.
I see no reason why you would need to replace either of these systems.
Once I confirm what units you have I will send separate instruction for each machine.
Please confirm compressor and unit model number.
REFRIGERATOR system
I am assuming this is a BD50 compressor count quick flashes together every 4 seconds, is it one two or more.
FREEZER system
If these are CU100 model Adler Barbour units there is a 15 amp fuse at top Rt corner of stainless steel box remove this fuse and look inside to see if fuse holder is burnt.
Are both units positioned the same as in this picture? I would like to see a picture of stainless box where wires are connected and the Danfoss electronic module on back side of picture.
I see no reason why you would need to replace either of these systems.
Once I confirm what units you have I will send separate instruction for each machine.
I understand and appreciate what you're saying and where your going with this, but what is so frustrating is that I cannot access very much of anything. The units are behind the DC Master panel, and I cannot get to anything without putting my arms across that. Even if I disconnect batteries, etc., then the units are stacked on top of one another so I'd have to remove the Ref unit, which is on top, to get to the Frez unit on the bottom. At any rate, I'll answer the questions I can.
1. For the Ref unit, it flashes one red light every 4 seconds until it shuts down and starts up again.
2. There are two fuses in the upper Left corner. A 15 amp "Main" and 5 amp Pump/fan. I can get to the fuses in the Ref but not the Frez.
3. The only plate I can view is on the Ref and it gives a serial number, not a part number. It also lists the refrigerant and voltages.
4. Both units are positioned exactly the same.
I, too, suspect electrical. What I need to be able to do is get a mulitmeter down on the hot pin to check the incoming voltage. This was exactly the problem before: loose wire on the main power cut-off switch. In fact, I need to check those terminals again, but I'm always a little skittish around boat electrical. I've been zapped enough times to develop a healthy respect for getting into tight areas I can't see what I'm doing and going to ground.
I find the statement amazing that with at least 10,000 boats in the Detroit area there are only two marine refrigeration technicians. Both of which are too busy to answer service calls. Thanks for your time and suggestions.
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If you do not feel comfortable working with 12 volt power even with all AC power turned off find any electrician or friend that is.
Correct Pleasure boat refrigeration repair now is becoming a do it yourself business because system manufactures appear to treat there units as expendable and offer little or no help to a repair mechanic. When you do find a willing mechanic they usually do more harm than good.
REFRIGERATOR unit.
The refrigerator unit is most likely OK but there is a problem with a poor connection in the boats wiring and a voltmeter will not help to find a microsecond low voltage spike that generally occurs in boats wiring. The best way to confirm this is:
Troubleshooting item #3 Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value. There will be dirty contacts in a circuit breaker or switch or a bad wire connection.
FREEZER unit
Are you saying when freezer is turned on amperage jumps to 15 amps and does not trip breaker or blow 15 amp fuse on stainless steel box. If so the Danfoss electronic control Module is bad or circuit board inside stainless box has a burnt fuse holder or a cracked circuit board. See TECH TIP #1 on my web site at http://www.kollmann-marine.com. If fuse holder on circuit board is bad it can be bypassed.
To move unit over to gain access to module or stainless box do not disconnect refrigerant lines……
I can test Danfoss module all you pay is shipping.
Correct Pleasure boat refrigeration repair now is becoming a do it yourself business because system manufactures appear to treat there units as expendable and offer little or no help to a repair mechanic. When you do find a willing mechanic they usually do more harm than good.
REFRIGERATOR unit.
The refrigerator unit is most likely OK but there is a problem with a poor connection in the boats wiring and a voltmeter will not help to find a microsecond low voltage spike that generally occurs in boats wiring. The best way to confirm this is:
Troubleshooting item #3 Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value. There will be dirty contacts in a circuit breaker or switch or a bad wire connection.
FREEZER unit
Are you saying when freezer is turned on amperage jumps to 15 amps and does not trip breaker or blow 15 amp fuse on stainless steel box. If so the Danfoss electronic control Module is bad or circuit board inside stainless box has a burnt fuse holder or a cracked circuit board. See TECH TIP #1 on my web site at http://www.kollmann-marine.com. If fuse holder on circuit board is bad it can be bypassed.
To move unit over to gain access to module or stainless box do not disconnect refrigerant lines……
I can test Danfoss module all you pay is shipping.
Thanks Richard. I bypassed all circuitry and ran directly from the battery to the module and both units came back to life. I then looked at the main 75 amp CB for the DC panel and the wires were loose and the positive wire was hot. Tightened everything with a little crunching. Have ordered a new 75 amp CB. In the meantime, with the little tightening I did, both units now work perfectly. Thanks for pointing this out to me and thanks for all the troubleshooting.
Carolyn,
Congratulations. You did it! Most of us were not born electricians, but we bought a couple of books or created SPARKIES, or both.
Richard's book is helpful, very helpful, and Charlie Wing's is great, too.
Try this:
BOOKS
Every so often folks ask: "What book should I buy to learn electrical stuff about my boat?"
The appropriate answer is: "Depends on how you like to learn."
Go to a chandlery and read a few in person, and start by buying one that you think suits your "level" and is "readable" to you."
A good starting list is provided by West Marine in the their online Advisors (and usually in their catalogs, one of which should be in your house and the other on your boat).
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...ecommended-Books-on-Marine-Electrical-Systems
Bypassing existing wiring for troubleshooting purposes is always a great idea if you have it. A volt meter can help as long as you watch the voltage with no load and at the load with it trying to start. If the voltage dips when the compressor starts more than about 5% then you need to be suspect if the wire, and any connections.
In the end, your troubleshooting light blinking was telling the truth.
In the end, your troubleshooting light blinking was telling the truth.
Doc, Do you think anyone other than Superman can see a microsecond voltage spike that control module can detect that will cause compressor false start up.
When the compressor starts, if there is a loose connection, the voltage will drop as a result of the inability of the current to flow. There is no spike. It's like a link in a water line.
The module knows locked rotor amps is part of starting the compressor and it should allow a second or two before cutting out.
Doc, You are old school out of date on voltage spikes today when compressor safety controls can be monitoring anywhere from one to five milliamp circuits.