OK Here it goes, My Running Rigging Upgrades among other thi

[Barry B.]

My Boat, 1973 C22 #1909, Brighteyes:​

General Info:
I bought my 1973 Swing keel Catalina 22 # 1909 in 1992, she was in good shape, but was bare bones, with minimal running rigging and no pop-top. She came with three sails, an old main sail in decent shape with bolt ropes on the foot and luft and one set of reef points, an old 110% hank on jib in good shape, and a fairly new 150% hank on genoa, and there were tracks installed with sliding genoa cars and blocks. She also came with the standard C22 one axle 1973 Trailrite trailer in good shape, a 6 horse Evinrude long shaft outboard in good shape with a 6 gallon steel gas tank, an Icom handheld Marine VHF radio, a nice gimbaled marine compass that attached to back of the sliding hatch cover, some good life jackets, and spare rigging parts. I did my first project before I could start sailing, I removed the old illegal marine head that discharged overboard and capped off the plumbing than installed a portapottie, I kept the old head in case I wanted to re-install it with a large holding tank. I still use the sails, trailer, gas tank, and motor
The Running Rigging:
She had two External Wire / Rope Halyards that tied off to cleats on the side of the mast about three feet from the bottom, requiring me to climb up onto to the cabin top to raise and lower the sails, there was no winch on the mast, a four part 5/16” rope main sheet, a single line jib sheet with a loop spliced in the center around a snap shackle, a four part 1/4” line boomvang , and a short piece of line tied to the eye strap on top of the aft end of the boom than tied through the grommet on the clew of the main as an outhaul and the standard 2 part boom downhaul with a single block under the boom and a cleat underneath on back side of the mast.
Electrical:
There was a battery with a 1” high wood bracket and a tie down, a small electrical panel that supplied power to all the lights, a small round dome perko bicolor light on the fore deck, a similar white stern light on top of the transom, a steaming light half way up the mast, and 3 cabin lights.

I kept my boat on the hard at Maryland Marina in Bowleys Quarters Maryland, on Frog Mortar Creek, a tributary of Middle River, which runs out into the upper Chesapeake Bay. Maryland Marina is primarily a sailing marina and was a major Calatina Dealer at one time, they still stock many Catalina parts today, and were very helpful with advice on the proper ways to rig my boat.

 

[Barry B.]

My Upgrades, not in any particular order:
Mast step halyard plate
I added a mast step halyard plate under the tabernacle that can hold 4 blocks on each side and a turning block on each side of the mast about 5” above the base, than I added a Spinlock 4 sheave deck organizer on each side of the cabin top, than added a Spinlock 2 sheave deck organizer on top of the 2 center sheaves of the starboard deck organizer. Over the next couple years I added 4 blocks to the starboard side of the mast step halyard plate.



Ran Halyards back to Cockpit
I replaced the rope part of the halyards with much longer lines, running the main halyard down to the far forward block than through the far outside sheave of the bottom starboard deck organizer, back to the cockpit, and moved the cleat from the starboard side of mast to the back of the cabin top outside of the handrail. Next I did the same with the jib halyard running it through the port turning block and the 2nd sheave from the inside of the port deck organizer, back to the cockpit, and moved the cleat from the port side of the mast to the back of the cabin top outside of the handrail. ( I reserved the far outside sheave for a future Spinnaker Halyard)

Sail Slugs and Main Downhaul:
I added sail slugs to the luft of my main sail, I used the all nylon slugs and nylon shackles that open up on the sail end and wrap around the bolt rope than you run a screw through the narrow side, through the sail and into the thick side of the shackle, they work very good and will not damage the sail because the bolt rope holds it in place. I than added a main downhaul with ⅛” line, I tied a bowline around the slug shackle at the bottom of the main sail’s headboard, than run it down the starboard side through a strap eye on the back quarter of the mast about a foot below the boom, through the turning block, across to the far outside sheave of the top starboard deck organizer, aft through the first clam cleat on the cabin top just inside the handrail than back to the cockpit. The Nylon Slugs are under a dollar each and the Nylon Screw on Shackles are from 80¢ to $1.80 each 2014 price from Sailrite ( www.sailrite.com ). They are also available from West Marine

Reefing Lines:
I also added ¼” reefing lines:

The forward reefing line is tied to a strap eye on the front quarter of the mast about an inch below the lowest point of the boom with a bowline and runs up the port side of the main to the reefing cringle, through the cringle grommet and back down the starboard side through a strap eye on the front quarter of the starboard side of the mast, down through the second block from the forward end of the mast step halyard plate, through the second sheave from the outside of the bottom deck organizer than aft through the second clam cleat inside the handrail and aft to the cockpit.

The aft reefing line is tied with a bowline to a strap eye centered on the port side of the boom about 5” aft of where the reef cringle grommet will be when the line is pulled tight while reefed, then runs up the port side of the main to the reef cringle, through the cringle grommet and back down the starboard side through the cheek block centered on the boom about 5” aft of the reef grommet, than forward along the boom through three strap eyes through the cheek block centered on the front of the boom, down through the aft block of the mast step halyard plate, through the far inside sheave of the bottom deck organizer than aft through the clam cleat next to the hatch slide and aft to the cockpit.

Boom Downhaul:
I upgraded the boom downhaul to a 3 part rig by splicing ¼”line to the becket on the bottom of the existing block, I removed the cleat that was attached to the sail slot with metal sail stop slugs and attached a cheek block using the same slugs. I ran the line down and through the starboard side of the cheek block than up the port side and through the top block, then ran the line down the starboard side of the mast through second block from the aft end of the mast step halyard plate and over to the second sheave from the inside end of the bottom deck organizer than aft through the 2nd clam cleat from the hatch slide and aft to the cockpit.


Topping Lift
I started the topping lift by splicing an eye in one end of a ¼” line and attached the eye to the aft end of the masthead fitting on the same clevis pin as the backstay than ran it down to the aft end of the boom run it through a HarkenSingle Micro Block, attached to the strap eye on top of the boom with a small shackle, than run it around to a strap eye on the top quarter of the starboard side of the boom about even with the maximum extension of the main sail clew, continued through a couple more strap eyes on the top quarter of the boom up to the cleat mounted on the top quarter about 5 inches from the forward end of the boom.

Clew Outhaul
Start by splicing an eye in the end of two ¼” lines and attach the first one to a strap eye in the middle of the starboard side of the boom about 2 or 3 inches from the aft end and ran it through the clew grommet on the main sail and back down to the cheek block centered around port side of the boom directly across from the strap eye where the eye splice is attached and ran it through the block than along the boom just below center through a strap eye about a foot forward of the block. Cut the line far enough forward to make an eye splice around a Harken Single Micro Block so that the block will be about 2’ to 2½’ from the cheek block. Stretch the spliced block forward and mark the boom at that location measureed 1’ to 1½’ forward of the first mark and make a second mark at that location. Put the second line on an eye strap and attach it centered around the boom at the second mark than place a cleat around the bottom quarter of the forward end of the portside of the boom. Run the second line down through the block on the end of the 1st line and stretch it tight to the forward cleat and tie it off than put 2 or 3 eye straps over the line. Because of the friction from pulling the line through the clew grommet you can lose some of the advantage, that can be remedied by running the first line through another single block and attaching it to the clew with a shackle, this will yield a full 4 to 1 advantage.

Jib Downhaul
Mount a cheek block as close to the deck as possible on the port side under the aft corner of the aft cabin window, than mount a clam cleat or cam cleat next to the aft edge of the port cabin side 2 to 6 inches above the gunwales, whatever works best for you. If you put the cleat too low it will ketch the line on a regular basis when it needs to run free, note the filled holes from my first location of the cleat, it would catch the downhaul almost every time I raised the jib, stopping me in my tracks. Next attach a block similar to a Harken Micro Block, Single with Swivel to the center hole of the stem fitting at the bow. I then ran an ⅛” line down through the cheek block and lay it out along the outside of the port deck, pulled it around the front of the aft base of the bow pulpit over to the stem fitting and run it through the block and tie a bowline or figure eight on a byte on the end to create a loop. I don’t have lifelines so I had to put an eye fitting on the deck to keep the line away from my stays, if you have lifelines you can get blocks or fairleads that clamp onto your lifeline stations. When you hank on your foresail put the loop over one of the upper hanks before you snap it over the forestay. If you have combination halyards rope/ wire halyards like I have, the end of the halyard will not reach the foredeck, so you may need to put the downhaul 2 or 3 hanks down from the top so you can pull as much sail as you can all the way down to the deck. If you attach the downhaul to the top hank and the halyard is 3 feet short of the deck that leaves 3 feet of space that sail can be blown up along the forestay and catch the wind and be blown off the side of the deck and catch some water and create a mess. I learned this through trial and error. Also once you pull your foresail down and cleat the downhaul good and tight, than cleat your jib sheet in tight also, it will keep the sail on the deck.

If you are wondering why I ran 5 lines back to the cockpit on the starboard side and only the jib sheet on the port side, I plan to get an asymmetrical spinnaker and that rigging will take up the open space on the port side.

 

[Barry B.]

More Pictures #1

Here are more Pictures

 

[Barry B.]

More Pictures #2

More Pictures Again

Note: The Garhauer traveler in the first pic is brand new and I have yet to sail with it.

 

[Barry B.]

Since I stripped all of the hardware off of the boat to do my deck recore I have purchased additional hardware to make upgrades suggested by the Catalina experts and to make upgrades to make life easier and more comfortable aboard. I purchased and installed a 4” day night solar powered vent fan on the forward port cabin top above the portapottie. I purchased the upgraded ½” chain plates with large backing plates, Spinlock Rope Clutches for the halyards, a single to go on the starboard side for the main, and a double for the port side for the jib and future spinnaker, Harken cam cleats to replace the clam cleats for the other lines. I also got the Garhauer mainsheet traveler and blocks to rig a multi part advantage, I haven’t decided exactly how I want to rig it yet but have got a couple good ideas, up to now the main sheet was just attached to the traveler rod with a shackle. I also purchased interior LED dome style cabin lights, a heavy duty OFF, ON 1, On 1 & 2, On 2 type battery switch, a second Battery, a 1100 GPH bildge pump with a float switch, an Auto – Off – Manual On Bildge Pump switch with a light that lets you know when the pump is running, 2 matched electrical panels, 1 with a 12v Power outlet, battery level meter, with switch and some fused & switched circuits, and the other panel is all fused & switched circuits that I am going to mount in the wall above the aft dinette seat, with hinges on the bottom so I can swing them down for maintenance access.

Deck Recore
Brighteyes has been upside-down on blocks for the last 5 or 6 years, I have been working on recoring the foredeck and side decks back to the jib sheet winch area, I kept getting side tracked with other things like house repairs, work, cold weather , hot weather, etc etc…….. I wear tyvek suits to keep from getting epoxy on me or fiberglass dust in my pores and can only do so much when it is hot out. I am hoping to finish the recore and get her in the water by July this year.

 

[$tingy Sailor]

Re: More Pictures #1

Great write-up and pictures, Barry.

Did you mean jib downhaul, not boom downhaul, in your stem fitting picture?

 

[Barry B.]

Good catch the blue line is the main downhaul. The lines for the main are some combination of white and blue, and the job lines are white and red.

 

[LooseDiamond]

Re: OK Here it goes, My Running Rigging Upgrades among other

Nice posts and pics. Good ideas, thanks!

 

[topcat0399]

Re: OK Here it goes, My Running Rigging Upgrades among other

Sweet write up. I feel your pain on the re coring - I've lived a lot of that and have sadly more to come.

I just cannot see that bow navigation light can possibly meet visibility requirements.
Is that how those were set up stock???

 

[Barry B.]

Yes that was stock, I haven't used it in years, it is just plugging up the hole. I installed an AquaSignal series 25 bicolor on my bow pulpit years ago. I am thinking of putting a hawsepipe through where the hole is. I already have the anchor bow roller from CD, to install when the recore is done.

 

[topcat0399]

Yes that was stock, I haven't used it in years, it is just plugging up the hole. I installed an AquaSignal series 25 bicolor on my bow pulpit years ago. I am thinking of putting a hawsepipe through where the hole is. I already have the anchor bow roller from CD, to install when the recore is done.

Crazy place to mount a bow nav light if you ask me.

I don't know the details of the bow roller that you intend to install but if its anything like our boat that won't be a good place for a hawse hole I'm thinking.

We just fitted one last month (finally!).
Our hawse hole is in a location similar to where that old bow light of yours is.
No way the hawse hole will work for us in that location.

Future plan is I intend to squeeze an actual anchor locker with a hatch into this darn boat and I will deal with the hawse hole with that. For now I have reverted to just stowing all of the rode on deck.

Note that our bow light is stock forward of the chain plate :naughty:


















































xxx

 

[Barry B.]

Re: OK Here it goes, My Running Rigging Upgrades among other

The anchor roller you have on your bow is the same one that I have, and am going to install after i complete the recore. it will be slightly off center and the bow fitting will go inside of it tight to one side.

 

[topcat0399]

The anchor roller you have on your bow is the same one that I have, and am going to install after i complete the recore. it will be slightly off center and the bow fitting will go inside of it tight to one side.

I considered that and then just mounted the roller straight ahead.
I really don't see the need for any fitting other than the hole in the side of URM-4 roller. Its some pretty serious hardware.

ymmv

 

[Barry B.]

I saw recent posts about running rigging so I figured I would bring this post back to the top.

 

[Barry B.]

I noticed a mistake on one of my pictures !!! On the close up picture of the stem fitting, the Jib Downhaul was mistakenly labeled (Boom Downhaul).

 

[jmczzz]

Re: OK Here it goes, My Running Rigging Upgrades among other

Thanks for a great illustrated write up, Barry. I have learned a lot about how my boats rigging should be restored by a careful review of this material.
thanks again, jmczzz