Leaky head

[Blue Pearl Captain]

The Admiral is irritated and when The Admiral is irritated I'm compelled to do something!

I'm referring to my 1993 Hunter 27
Is calking advisable around the base of the toilet housing which covers the plumbing from the seacock to the bowl to the holding tank?
The leak isn't coming from between the pump, which I replaced last year. and housing. It's only leaking from below the outflow plumbing and only after flushing.
I've tightened all 1/2" bolts.
Is there a seal that needs to be replaced which would require taking the bowl and housing off?

Working on the head....by far the worst maintenance task to deal with!

 

[seadaddler]

Info

We need more info and what model make of head.
Nick

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

We need more info and what model make of head.
Nick

It's a Jabsco manual pump (29090 series) in a 1993 Hunter 27.
I've looked closer at the manufacturers recommendations and schematics. I can't find a seal at the base of the housing and deck.
They do recommend silicon calking around the bottom rim of the base.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=768
That should do the trick.
What say ye?

 

[Benny17441]

Water goes in the intake hose, passes through the vented loop and the pump and out the sanitary hose. Any leaks should be found in the hoses, fixtures and seals attached to these components. The function of the base is merely an anchor point to attach to the floor. The purpose of caulking the base is to keep water out and not allow it to get under where it can grow mold. There is always the chance that the unit could have a crack but chances are slim. The thing with water leaks is they have the uncanny ability of masking their source of origin. You may apply some food coloring to the water in the bowl and see if the leak is clear or colored as well as help pinpoint the source of origin. Check the hoses, attachment fixtures and clamps to eliminate the possibility and all you will have left is the pump assembly. These pumps have a reputation for leaking and it would be my primary suspect. In the past I had chosen to replace them rather than try and repair them. Last , there is always the possibility that the leak starts somewhere else and it just happens to end at the base of the head. To answer your questions, no need to remove the bowl and yes go ahead and caulk the base. These heads require good regular maintenance and use to keep them in good operating conditions. The pump needs lubrication and regular exercise, we cannot expect them to sit in the heat or cold and dry as a bone and then perform flawlessly. Good luck.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Benny's right. Sometimes a PO may have overtightened the screws in the pump assembly, creating a small crack. Many skippers have replaced the screws with thru bolts and nuts with washers. If the plastic is cracked, though, you have a different issue.

 

[FourPoints]

Can you post pictures? I ask mostly because I have the same boat and want to see how your plumbing is routed...

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Water goes in the intake hose, passes through the vented loop and the pump and out the sanitary hose. Any leaks should be found in the hoses, fixtures and seals attached to these components. The function of the base is merely an anchor point to attach to the floor. The purpose of caulking the base is to keep water out and not allow it to get under where it can grow mold. There is always the chance that the unit could have a crack but chances are slim. The thing with water leaks is they have the uncanny ability of masking their source of origin. You may apply some food coloring to the water in the bowl and see if the leak is clear or colored as well as help pinpoint the source of origin. Check the hoses, attachment fixtures and clamps to eliminate the possibility and all you will have left is the pump assembly. These pumps have a reputation for leaking and it would be my primary suspect. In the past I had chosen to replace them rather than try and repair them. Last , there is always the possibility that the leak starts somewhere else and it just happens to end at the base of the head. To answer your questions, no need to remove the bowl and yes go ahead and caulk the base. These heads require good regular maintenance and use to keep them in good operating conditions. The pump needs lubrication and regular exercise, we cannot expect them to sit in the heat or cold and dry as a bone and then perform flawlessly. Good luck.

Thank you, Benny. I thought that would be the case. I replaced the pump last year when it became difficult to pump up and down. It's had the small leak ever since. I'm thinking of disassembling the unit and inspect the seals, rings, hose attachment points, and then reassembling it. If it leaks then I'll have to replace it.
It's a learning curve. Sounds like I just caulked the water in! Yikes!

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Benny's right. Sometimes a PO may have overtightened the screws in the pump assembly, creating a small crack. Many skippers have replaced the screws with thru bolts and nuts with washers. If the plastic is cracked, though, you have a different issue.

Thanks, Stu. you guys are a great help.

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Can you post pictures? I ask mostly because I have the same boat and want to see how your plumbing is routed...

Brian, I'll see about this. I'm not real tech savvy but my 14 year old daughter is. I'm going out Saturday/Sunday and will make every effort to remember my camera.

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Brian, I'll see about this. I'm not real tech savvy but my 14 year old daughter is. I'm going out Saturday/Sunday and will make every effort to remember my camera.

Brian, I'm not sure if the attachments will come through.
Here's what I found...the base plate where the screw holes were had simply demolished over time. When pricing out Jabsco parts it was less expensive to install an entire compact toilet unit than by individual parts. I ordered one on Amazon and the total came to $180 including shipping.
Now if I can do the installation without crossing hoses or damaging seals it ought to work fine.

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Brian, I'm not sure if the attachments will come through.
Here's what I found...the base plate where the screw holes were had simply demolished over time. When pricing out Jabsco parts it was less expensive to install an entire compact toilet unit than by individual parts. I ordered one on Amazon and the total came to $180 including shipping.
Now if I can do the installation without crossing hoses or damaging seals it ought to work fine.

The pics show the existing damaged parts. Will post pics of the new unit soon.
Benny had it right. Caulking simply held water in. You gotta get to the source.
Live and learn.
Thanks everyone.

 

[Mulf]

Just curious

The parts schematic for that unit (I have two on Dreamboat) shows a gasket on the center circle of that chewed up base. Did you find one there?

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

The parts schematic for that unit (I have two on Dreamboat) shows a gasket on the center circle of that chewed up base. Did you find one there?

Yes. it was there. I tried to put things back for a temporary fix but the there were no threads left to hold.

 

[Sailm8]

Just an aside. Buy the complete assembled pump not the rebuild kit. It was only a few bucks more and way easier. After years of messing with that toilet every season, I replaced it with a raritan from this sites store. What a difference. Just my 2cents worth.

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Just an aside. Buy the complete assembled pump not the rebuild kit. It was only a few bucks more and way easier. After years of messing with that toilet every season, I replaced it with a raritan from this sites store. What a difference. Just my 2cents worth.

That's going to be Plan B if this one fails. Thank you.

 

[Blue Pearl Captain]

Just an aside. Buy the complete assembled pump not the rebuild kit. It was only a few bucks more and way easier. After years of messing with that toilet every season, I replaced it with a raritan from this sites store. What a difference. Just my 2cents worth.

I installed the complete unit today. It took a couple of hours but went in pretty easily. Afterwards the bowl filled and emptied so I'm pretty certain I got the hoses on correctly!
The instructions stipulate not to over-tighten connections and screws to avoid cracking any of the base or pump plastics.
The price came in way under the cost of doing things part by part and I was able to find a good deal on E-bay.