the best marine sanitation hose???

centerline

centerline

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
I need to replace the 1.5" dump line from the head to the tank. It currently has the trident hose such as you find at west marine installed.... but it doesnt seem like it could be the best hose to use as its seems to check in spots and some of the older stuff (that I have since replaced) was actually perforated in spots due to the checking....

upon searching for a new water heater I have found that Raritan also makes sanitation hose.. they claim its the best hose available...

so,of all the brands that are available, what brand of hose would you install on your boat if you had the time and money????


when I bought the boat, I knew it had a leak in one of the hoses (a perforation). so after replacing all the hoses a couple months ago and thinking the problem was gone, I found it leaked only when it was full, and it wasnt the hoses.
so I removed the poly tank which was custom built for the space available, and found it had a faulty joint at the upper rear seam for about 18inches. I think this was due to a plugged vent line and when the tank got full it built too much pressure and eventually busted the seam....
so I removed the tank which took about 30 minutes, pressure washed it, then took it and had it re-welded.... so now I get to do the sanitation hose again and I want to install the longest lasting and least permeable hose I can get for the purpose...
 
thinwater

thinwater

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Mar 26, 2011
3,671
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
Yup, what he said.

Trident 101/102 (just a color difference) are the best choise.
http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm
Trident makes cheaper hose (140). Don't.

If it is a very tough-to-fit spot, Raritan Saniflex is very good too.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2243574|2243583&id=1814037

Replacement isn't a bad job IF you flush a lot first. Beach, vinegar... just flush a lot first. Easy. Double clamps and check the barbs (clean off old junk).

If you go to my blog and search "easy button" there is a lengthy post on a number of brands. Did a review for Practical Sailor, and come to think of it, my follow-up report is coming due. Only the clear vinyl is a failure at this time, though I have had white 140 failures and black rubber exhaust hose failures.
 
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dparilla

dparilla

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
Raritan Saniflex is awesome. A bit stiffer than some others, but extremely resistant to permeation.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
As thinwater said Trident 101/102 has stood the test of time and is field proven. I have some on boats that is well past 12+ years still 100% odor free and I set foot on other boats with 1-2 year old white PVC "sanitation hose" that wreaks....

The Raritan hose is only a few years out so I am still personally awaiting judgement as to longevity..

At this point my own boat has Trident #101 and would not get anything else until it has proven itself like Trident 101 has...
 
Joe

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,162
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
ditto 101, dip the ends in hot water if connections are difficult.. never tried a heat gun, that may work too.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Joe said:
ditto 101, dip the ends in hot water if connections are difficult.. never tried a heat gun, that may work too.
Click to expand
A heat gun won't do squat to Trident 101.. If your hose softens with heat it is PVC hose not Trident 101..
 
dparilla

dparilla

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
I was lucky and able to use a 6 foot run of solid pvc pipe between the head and the hold 'n treat system. There is a 1 foot length of Raritan hose on the head end, a 2 foot section connecting the pipe to the holding tank inlet, and then a 3 foot section connecting the hold 'n treat discharge to the through hull. No issues over the winter, we will stress test it again this summer with out trip to Connecticut and back.
 
FourPoints

FourPoints

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Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
Joe said:
ditto 101, dip the ends in hot water if connections are difficult.. never tried a heat gun, that may work too.
Click to expand
I coated the fitting and the inside of the hose with mineral oil, or as CVS labels the bottle "Intestinal Lubricant" :eek:
 
Chris Patterson

Chris Patterson

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Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
I really hate that the clear hose is no good. I was thinking of running it around the cabin for effects, something like a lava lamp if you will. Only different..
 
Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

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Feb 26, 2004
22,986
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Chris,

I agree.

Aw, shucks, too bad we can't see it going where it's supposed to...:eek::eek::eek:
 
shemandr

shemandr

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Jan 1, 2006
7,471
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
dparilla said:
I was lucky and able to use a 6 foot run of solid pvc pipe between the head and the hold 'n treat system. There is a 1 foot length of Raritan hose on the head end, a 2 foot section connecting the pipe to the holding tank inlet, and then a 3 foot section connecting the hold 'n treat discharge to the through hull. No issues over the winter, we will stress test it again this summer with out trip to Connecticut and back.
Click to expand
At risk of sounding stupid, how did you connect the pvc to the hose. Did the hose fit over the pvc pipe? Hose clamps? What are the OD of the pipe vs. ID of the hose?
 
centerline

centerline

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Chris Patterson said:
I really hate that the clear hose is no good. I was thinking of running it around the cabin for effects, something like a lava lamp if you will. Only different..
Click to expand
was kinda thinkin the same thing... when I was searching and inspecting for the source of the leak, I saw the vent tube, which is clear poly, to have effluent in it...
I couldnt tell by pumping that the tank was full, but once i seen the fluid in the vent line rising and trying to purge itself, I quickly deduced where the problem was and why..... the effluent level in the vent line was not rising at the same rate as I was pumping, so I knew the vent screen was plugged and the bulk of the water I was putting in was exiting somewhere... when I looked in the tank compartment, it was holding quite a bit outside of the tank....

(in my opinion, leaving the screen in the vent line thru hull fitting is a bad idea, as when it plugs up and dries, its like its been mortered in... i think this was the ultimate cause of the ruptured tank....)

which brings me to my thoughts about the clear poly with bubbles rising thru it:D.... I was thinking if I ran a section of clear vent tube up the corner of the head before exiting the boat, I would have a visual indicator when the tank is full....

I did think about installing an actual indicator in the tank, but the tank is only 6"deep 22"wide and 36"long , so i think with the boat rocking and rolling, it would not give a very accurate reading unless installed directly in the center of the top of the tank.... and this is not an option....

so, until I hear of a better way, the vent line tank level indicator still has the most votes from me...
 
Chris Patterson

Chris Patterson

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Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
PVC can be connected easily with a barbed fitting, tha glues or screws into the pipe. Simple cheap thing.
 
thinwater

thinwater

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Mar 26, 2011
3,671
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
The best hose lubricants for sanitation hose are K-Y or glycerin. Oil is a VERY BAD IDEA, as most of the sanitation hoses are made of a materials (EPDM, butyl, vinyl) that are damaged by oil. Very likely the exposure is limitied and no serius damage will occur, but generally manufacture advice is against oil. The rubber under the clamps can be damaged, the barb may cut the hose, and leakage may result.

K-Y or glycerin.

And as Mainesail explained, heat won't help with rubber hoses (the wire ain't going to stretch). Really, only the vinyl has fit problems.
 
FastOlson

FastOlson

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Apr 8, 2010
2,090
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
I rebuilt and redesigned the layout of the head/holding tank/pumpout hoses on our boat using Trident 148.
Only time will tell if this was best, but it is holding up well without odor so far.

Here is their current product chart:
http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm

One thing to consider when you do some work on your head system is making sure that you eliminate any low places or other parts of the run where waste can settle.
Our original holding tank had intake and exit ports on the side right at the bottom. I changed to dip tubes from the top on the new tank.

Kind of an interesting project... but I would not care to do it all over again...
:)
Loren
 
dparilla

dparilla

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
shemandr said:
At risk of sounding stupid, how did you connect the pvc to the hose. Did the hose fit over the pvc pipe? Hose clamps? What are the OD of the pipe vs. ID of the hose?
Click to expand
We used 1.5 inch barb adapters into threaded collars. The collars were cemented to the pipe. Then just a matter of securing the hose to the barbs with doubled hose clamps. The pipe is held secure with a pipe strap near each end, while the hoses provide the necessary flex for the system.
 
centerline

centerline

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
when i replace the hoses a couple months ago, i used lanocote as a lubricant... the hoses slipped on reasonably nice, but they still had to be cut off when i removed the tank....
 
thinwater

thinwater

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Mar 26, 2011
3,671
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
centerline said:
when i replace the hoses a couple months ago, i used lanocote as a lubricant... the hoses slipped on reasonably nice, but they still had to be cut off when i removed the tank....
Click to expand
Another reason to use rubber hoses (Trident 101, Raritan Saniflex, others) is they are much easier to remove. I did a 3-year side-by-side project for Practical Sailor (Dec 2013)with 6 side-by-side holding tanks. There were HUGE differences in removability. I expereinced the same thing replumbing 2 test boats; the rubber hoses required a few tugs and some rocking, the vinyl required a knife.
 
FourPoints

FourPoints

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Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
thinwater said:
The best hose lubricants for sanitation hose are K-Y or glycerin. Oil is a VERY BAD IDEA, as most of the sanitation hoses are made of a materials (EPDM, butyl, vinyl) that are damaged by oil. Very likely the exposure is limitied and no serius damage will occur, but generally manufacture advice is against oil. The rubber under the clamps can be damaged, the barb may cut the hose, and leakage may result.

K-Y or glycerin.

And as Mainesail explained, heat won't help with rubber hoses (the wire ain't going to stretch). Really, only the vinyl has fit problems.
Click to expand
Doesnt this apply only to regular petroleum based oils, mineral oil is 'safe' to eat, granted it acts as a strong laxative when you do, but that just means it ends up in the plumbing that much faster...
 
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