- My old Oday 25 is mine no longer. The port side chainplate ripped out of the bulkhead and up through the deck As a result, the mast (fully rigged) carried away to starboard. (this in the main channel of the Caloosahatchie river). In any case, estimates on repair greatly exceeded original cost of boat, so it was sold on Ebay. I purchased an '82 Oday 23 whose brightwork is really bad. Where can one obtain new hand rails and wood channels that main hatch cover sides in?
- Also any suggestions on reinforcing bulkhead mountings for chainplates? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
New Brightwork
- Thread starter newfiedad
- Start date
For specific ODay parts many ODay owners mention Rudy at D & R Marine; I havent't bought there yet, but I do need hatch runners too.
Looks like they have handrails and hatch runners. Website has dimensions on it to check against yours. Link:
http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=167
Post photos!
Looks like they have handrails and hatch runners. Website has dimensions on it to check against yours. Link:
http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=167
Post photos!
Thanks for the quick reply.. I'll have to measure to be certain before I order, but looks great!
I ordered mine from D & R and they were perfect. I believe I had to cut them to length, but don't really remember.
As far as reinforcing the chain plates. I took my bulkheads out one at a time, they were starting to show signs of water damage. They were still made of enough wood to pass my inspection, however I did seal the ends and both flats with several coats of penetrating epoxy. Especiallly the top edges and the existing holes where the chain plates bolted in. On the edges and holes I must have put a dozen or more coats, I kept it up until they would not absourb any more. Now at least if the chain plates do leak, a big problem on the 23 the wood will not absorb it and rot or delaminate. I needed to seal them about twice per season, so keep an eye on them.
As far as reinforcing the chain plates. I took my bulkheads out one at a time, they were starting to show signs of water damage. They were still made of enough wood to pass my inspection, however I did seal the ends and both flats with several coats of penetrating epoxy. Especiallly the top edges and the existing holes where the chain plates bolted in. On the edges and holes I must have put a dozen or more coats, I kept it up until they would not absourb any more. Now at least if the chain plates do leak, a big problem on the 23 the wood will not absorb it and rot or delaminate. I needed to seal them about twice per season, so keep an eye on them.
Scott,
I'm using butyl tape to seal my chainplates, no leaks since I replaced the bulkheads three years ago.
I'm using butyl tape to seal my chainplates, no leaks since I replaced the bulkheads three years ago.
I will have to try that this year. It just seemed to be such a tight fit that I did not thing the butal would form a seal. Did you enlarge your hole? Did you leave a nice bead above the deck?
I always felt that it should have a cover plate, somebody here welded one on but I feared that would weaken the stainless. Thanks
I always felt that it should have a cover plate, somebody here welded one on but I feared that would weaken the stainless. Thanks
What I have been considering doing is to form a couple of 12" x 12" 1/4" thick alum. or stainless plates. drill them through and bolt them through making a plate/bulkhead/plate sandwich. then reseat/reseal chainplates. Do this both port and starboard sides. I rather doubt that they could rip out then. Any thoughts?
Scott-
I did not enlarge the holes, but it did take a lot of time to work butyl tape into slots. I also used a flat piece of plastic to force as much tape into the slot around the chainplate as I could manage. It was difficult, but at least not as messy as working with caulk.
I also sealed the beauty plates so that butyl tape squished up out of the slot where the chainplate passes through.
So far, so good.
I did that as a stop gap measure when I first bought my boat. The bulkheads were rotted at the top hole. A friend cut a piece of aluminum and we sandwiched the bulkheads between the chainplates and the aluminum plates.
We only did one side (plate/bulkhead/chainplate), as opposed to your plate/bulkhead/plate/chainplate sandwich because that extra quarter inch offsets the chainplate so that it is not in line with the hole in the deck. I think you would have to recess the aluminum plate on the forward side of the bulkhead, which kind of defeats the purpose. It seems to me that just one aluminum plate at 12X12 will work, as long as it is bolted into solid bulkhead.
I dont have any beauty plates, just the deck. I don't know if it ever had them or if they are just long gone. I might just make a set out of teak and then seal with the butyl tape. Thanks, you have encouraged me to take it on if the ice around here ever melts.
I think that will make a difference, something to seal against the deck and fill up with butyl tape or caulk.
You've got the chainplate coming through a hole in the deck, and there's a small SS plate with a slot in it, through which the chainplate passes. That's the beauty plate- maybe I'm using the wrong term.
It doesn't do anything structurally, but it does cover the slot and maybe provides a little protection against water intrusion.
It doesn't do anything structurally, but it does cover the slot and maybe provides a little protection against water intrusion.
