European vs US power

Jackdaw · Mar 19, 2014

If the boats was built to be used in the UK it will have an IEC 60309 3 pin round plug for 240V 50Hz AC power into the boat. You will have to change that.

Your shore power cord looks like this. New cables.

Inside the battery charger will be designed to accept 240V. You might have to change that if it does not accept 120V 60Hz AC.

The plugs will be UK 3 square pin household outlets. Change those too.

NOW, someone 'smart' could cut the dock ends of the UK cables off and replace them with US compatible ends, leaving the boat end and plug alone. But you did not hear that from me!

mitiempo · Mar 19, 2014

The current at 240 volts is half that at 120 volts. Because of that the internal AC wiring to each circuit could well be smaller than North American standards. If so it will have to be changed as well - a big job on a finished interior boat.

In other words you may have to change everything in the AC system.

capta · Mar 19, 2014

Easiest way and safest way to deal with your problem is to use a transformer to convert the dock's 110/120 Volt AC to your boat's 220/240 Volts AC.
A simple installation without rewiring the whole boat.

Bill Roosa · Mar 19, 2014

Also to be considered is if you don't change over all the wiring appliance, outlets to 110 volt standards and just change the plug ends and buy a new battery charger then what happens when the next owner sets himself on fire.......... would you be liable?
Just a thought.
I'm thinking a 240 to 120 transformer would be the best way to go since you are not interested in (yet) using the AC outlets.
I'd say it all depends (again) on how you are going to use the boat. AC at the dock?, reefer running all week to keep the beer cold?.....

Stu Jackson · Mar 19, 2014

capta said:
Easiest way and safest way to deal with your problem is to use a transformer to convert the dock's 110/120 Volt AC to your boat's 220/240 Volts AC.
A simple installation without rewiring the whole boat.

That's correct. The AC wiring inside the boat has been designed for 220V, which means: SMALLER WIRES FOR THE SAME LOAD.

UNLESS you REWIRE the entire boat, with BIGGER wires, this is the ONLY way to do it safely.

Think about it...

Good luck.

PS - Why are you buying a boat in the UK? Are you sailing it here? Can you not find a boat here in the US? Just askin'...

Lee Hadjiosif · Mar 19, 2014

inarathree said:
I am sure that this has been asked before, but I didn't see a close enough answer when I searched.

So I am considering a boat in the UK, so I assume that it takes the European shore power, which is not the same as US shore power. If I am not really interested in AC power on my boat, what do I need to do to adapt her to US shore power, and how does it effect charging of batteries, and other DC requirements?

If you are not interested in A/C power inside the boat, then all you need to do is replace the charger with a 110V one and check that the wiring from the plug to the panel and from the panel to the charger meet the gauge requirements of the charger. Make sure you disconnect the HW Heater and outlet wiring at the panel to prevent energizing them by accident and melt the wires. You also need to replace the boat input plug to the US style and buy a new dock cord in the US. Don't try to modify the UK cord because it is most likely undersized.

mitiempo · Mar 19, 2014

Lee Hadjiosif said:
If you are not interested in A/C power inside the boat, then all you need to do is replace the charger with a 110V one and check that the wiring from the plug to the panel and from the panel to the charger meet the gauge requirements of the charger. Make sure you disconnect the HW Heater and outlet wiring at the panel to prevent energizing them by accident and melt the wires. You also need to replace the boat input plug to the US style and buy a new dock cord in the US. Don't try to modify the UK cord because it is most likely undersized.

Then you end up with a boat that is not wired to any country's standard.

centerline · Mar 20, 2014

inarathree said:
I am sure that this has been asked before, but I didn't see a close enough answer when I searched.

So I am considering a boat in the UK, so I assume that it takes the European shore power, which is not the same as US shore power. If I am not really interested in AC power on my boat, what do I need to do to adapt her to US shore power, and how does it effect charging of batteries, and other DC requirements?

what size of boat are you looking at buying in the UK?... if its a small boat, it really isnt much to pull new wires as you wont have over three or four outlets....also need new circuit breakers.
getting up into a 30ft boat and bigger, the issue can get more intense quickly, but still do-able...

and, are there any AC appliances on board such as a water heater, fans, lights, or space heaters?... they will need to be changed out to 110v also.

with the wire size being half the size you need, I dont see how you will be able to use the existing wiring that is installed on the boat here in the states with the common 30a-120v source that is found at the dock....

KD3PC · Mar 20, 2014

Make sure you understand the cost and installation requirements of a step-down transformer. They are not inexpensive, for the loads you anticipate. They generate heat and RFI, so installation needs to be planned.

Be safe, and even safer for the next owner, who may not understand what changes you have made.

Crazy Dave Condon · Mar 20, 2014

Before you consider purchasing a used 22 in the UK for the U.S., check into the freight of shipping that boat over to the U.S. IT AINT CHEAP!!!!!

CRAZY DAVE

woodster · Mar 20, 2014

if you use a stepdown transformer you would still have to up grade the wiring to accomidat the amps on each run so i would think that a stepdown would be just as bad if not worse than doing the job correctly in the first place.....just my thoughts...

regards

woody

capta · Mar 20, 2014

woodster said:
if you use a stepdown transformer you would still have to up grade the wiring to accomidat the amps on each run so i would think that a stepdown would be just as bad if not worse than doing the job correctly in the first place.....just my thoughts...

regards

woody

You are confusing me. The shore power would plug directly into the transformer, so other than a shore power cord, what wiring would one need to replace?

Rick Webb · Mar 20, 2014

Y'all are Missing a Step

Getting the boat to accept US 110v 60 HZ is easy.

The afore mentioned transformer takes care of that.

The big issue is going to be replacement of electrical components when they fail. That can be overcome by ordering them at a not insignificant price differential yet aside from the inconvenience quite doable.

The major pain in the ass will be every electrical, appliance, tool, accessory, adapter, doodad, whatever that you bring onto the boat is going to need a voltage adapter. Many items the ones I remember being of particular annoyance for not working well on voltage adapters are clocks, TVs, printer, and monitors. It is not just the voltage but also the cycles and many items just refuse to cooperate. Talk to any American who has lived in Europe and has had to replace most all of their electrical possessions about how easy it is to do.

Two suggested options:

Buy the boat here and take it both ways across the pond by whichever method you choose to do that.

Buy and sell the boat there then buy a different one here.

I guess another would be to go strictly 12V but that is no way to live. Might as well burn coal for heat and use kerosene for your lights.

woodster · Mar 20, 2014

capta said:
You are confusing me. The shore power would plug directly into the transformer, so other than a shore power cord, what wiring would one need to replace?

every wire in the boat because they will be to small for the amps that you will need going from 220 v 50 hrz to 120v60hrz the wire requirements will be you need larger wire to handle the increase in amps...example a 220 vac 50hrz run for a 10 amp run will be 2#16 to run the blinder on that current now our blinder will require 15amps 120vac 60hrz and for that you will need #14 wire to do it so everything will be undersized on the original wire as it is now....hence the wire up grades....

regards

woody

capta · Mar 20, 2014

woodster said:
every wire in the boat because they will be to small for the amps that you will need going from 220 v 50 hrz to 120v60hrz the wire requirements will be you need larger wire to handle the increase in amps...example a 220 vac 50hrz run for a 10 amp run will be 2#16 to run the blinder on that current now our blinder will require 15amps 120vac 60hrz and for that you will need #14 wire to do it so everything will be undersized on the original wire as it is now....hence the wire up grades....

regards

woody

Woody,
As I mentioned above, the transformer changes the 110v to 220v at the shore power cord so you only have 220v inside the boat. No wire change necessary, no amperage change.

woodster · Mar 20, 2014

capta said:
Woody,
As I mentioned above, the transformer changes the 110v to 220v at the shore power cord so you only have 220v inside the boat. No wire change necessary, no amperage change.[/quote

you are correct i was thinking about bringing one here and changeing out the 220 to 120 and keeping it state side but if you use a transformer to change like you said there would be no need other than haveing to use all euro appliances and connections....i have one of those transformers here in my shop made by Square D new in the box and the damn thing weighs about 80 lbs have had it for about 15 years as i type this...now i am confused as i thought the po was going to buy one and bring it here and upgrade the electrics to 120 vac......

regards

woody

Stu Jackson · Mar 20, 2014

Sometimes European boats use 24V devices instead of 12V.

I think the issues raised should caution you to be very careful about what you do.

While you're there, not an issue, once you come back, and while you have the time between now and then, you have the time to do the research necessary based on the issues raised.

Good luck, sounds like a really, really nice idea.

And, yes, many of us DO use devices away from shorepower. We have an inverter and a microwave. If what you have or buy in Europe breaks down, it might be some fun to replace it in the future.

Just think it all through.