Greeting from the south Pacific. Our 2005 310, hull number 326, has decided to run incredibly economically, the fuel guage will not budge off reading full, despite how much fuel we have used. We cannot find any loose wires at either the tank or the instrument end. Any ideas please?
Fuel guage stuck on " full"
- Thread starter Sailorlass
- Start date
Most likely a ground issue. You might have a corroded wire inside what looks to be a tight connector. Check the ground from the sending unit first, gage next and if that does not work - you have to start tracking, or just add a new ground and see if that helps.
South Pacific - WOW. Do you live full time on your C310?
Russ
s/v Long Story
South Pacific - WOW. Do you live full time on your C310?
Russ
s/v Long Story
I figure I can run 40-50 hours...maybe even 60 hours since much time is spent in low idle. My gauge doesn't come off full until I have 30+ hours on that tank. Just checked yesterday...fantastic sailing day by the way...and I have 28 hours on the motor since I last filled up and the gauge is still sitting on full.
But it will eventually come off full and when it does I normally go fill up again.
Cheers,
Jim
But it will eventually come off full and when it does I normally go fill up again.
Cheers,
Jim
the easiest way to check is to remove the center wire from the send unit at the tank... does the gauge return to empty?...
if yes, the sender is faulty. OR... the sense wire from the gauge has grounded somewhere in its run to the the sender.
if no, the gauge is faulty....
a properly matched/working gauge and sender will show empty with the sender wire disconnected.... it will show full if the wire goes directly to ground.... (theoretically, it could very well work opposite, with the direct grounded sense wire showing on the gauge as empty, but i have NEVER seen this)
with it connected to the center post on the sender, it will show where the arm is pointing in the tank...
the gauge works on a variable ground from the tank sending unit... as the float arm moves up or down, so does the resistence.
the sender is like a mini rheostat with the float/arm controlling where the contact is made on the windings... the gauge measures this resistance and displays it somewhere between the empty and full marks....
BUT, even though you will usually find the problem somewhere by doing the above troubleshooting, it would be a good idea at some point to make sure the grounds at the gauge and the sender is good, and the continuity is not broken in either wire on the run to the sender.... and check for a fuse in the gauge hot wire.... make sure its still good.
it can all be checked very easily with a multimeter....
Troubleshooting Procedure
I put this together. On mine the gauge failed.
7.8.4 Teleflex Fuel Gauges
The fuel gauges are Teleflex; in the West Marine Catalog is a "Teleflex" 'Universal electric fuel gage and sending unit", sending unit Model #547406 TELEF#90424P which costs $29.99. Lonnie at Seaward (562-699-7997 x213), believes there are far too many change-outs that are simply the result of faulty wiring. There are only three parts for the fuel gauge system.
1. The gauge itself (less likely to fail)
2. The wiring between the gauge and fuel tank (more likely to fail)
3. The tank sender/float assembly (more likely to fail)
To access the fuel tank sending unit you need to remove it from the top of the tank where there is a round plate with 5 screws. Sender is attached to the bottom side of this plate. You need a stubby Phillips screwdriver as there is not much clearance above the tank. The gauge is a volt/ohm meter and the sender/float assembly is a variable resistor on a pivot style float. If it is reading full continuously the gauge is bad or, most probably, there is a short in the wire from tank to gauge.
• When tank is empty, float arm hangs almost straight down
• When tank is full, float arm is floating horizontally and touches the top of the tank
• The arm must have nearly a full 90 degree unobstructed swing
• You can loosen the set screw(s) on the sender and rotate the sender 90°
• Ensure sending unit is oriented correctly as the float rotates and may hit the side of the tank and not read correctly
I put this together. On mine the gauge failed.
7.8.4 Teleflex Fuel Gauges
The fuel gauges are Teleflex; in the West Marine Catalog is a "Teleflex" 'Universal electric fuel gage and sending unit", sending unit Model #547406 TELEF#90424P which costs $29.99. Lonnie at Seaward (562-699-7997 x213), believes there are far too many change-outs that are simply the result of faulty wiring. There are only three parts for the fuel gauge system.
1. The gauge itself (less likely to fail)
2. The wiring between the gauge and fuel tank (more likely to fail)
3. The tank sender/float assembly (more likely to fail)
To access the fuel tank sending unit you need to remove it from the top of the tank where there is a round plate with 5 screws. Sender is attached to the bottom side of this plate. You need a stubby Phillips screwdriver as there is not much clearance above the tank. The gauge is a volt/ohm meter and the sender/float assembly is a variable resistor on a pivot style float. If it is reading full continuously the gauge is bad or, most probably, there is a short in the wire from tank to gauge.
• When tank is empty, float arm hangs almost straight down
• When tank is full, float arm is floating horizontally and touches the top of the tank
• The arm must have nearly a full 90 degree unobstructed swing
• You can loosen the set screw(s) on the sender and rotate the sender 90°
• Ensure sending unit is oriented correctly as the float rotates and may hit the side of the tank and not read correctly
Thanks very much for all that, we are heading up to Picton, in the Marlborough Sounds, at the north of the South Island of New Zealand, next week, just waiting for some bad weather to blow through. Have been on the boat since before Christmas and hope to get another month in before we get fed up?? or the weather drives us home. We will go armed with your suggestions which are very much appreciated.
Incidentally, we put a hatch into the head, on the bulkhead between there and the external port locker, sorry, haven't a pic. What an improvement! Usable space. Thank you whoever suggested that.
Will follow your suggestions next week and post our results.
Adrien.
Incidentally, we put a hatch into the head, on the bulkhead between there and the external port locker, sorry, haven't a pic. What an improvement! Usable space. Thank you whoever suggested that.
Will follow your suggestions next week and post our results.
Adrien.
I have replaced my tank sender three times - the last time the sender only worked 3 months before failing again, but Moeller sent me a free replacement. Save the screws when you remove the sender until you verify the replacements are the same thread pitch (bolt hole pattern was the same on my 2003 C310 but had to reuse the old screws). These are pics of the original Tempco sender I had.
http://www.iboats.com/6-12-Electric...9873612--session_id.632333850--view_id.392305
http://www.iboats.com/6-12-Electric...9873612--session_id.632333850--view_id.392305
