Fuel shut off fuel water separator

Ralph Johnstone · Dec 30, 2013

Clydo said:
Appears it is below fuel tank level and would required closing fuel to engine valve.

Like you, I never was able to find a shut off valve at the tank. Either it's well hidden or there never was one intended. I got around that by:

1. Waiting until the tank was down to 1/4 full.

2. Having a 1/4" ball valve with a screwed in 1/4" NPT X 1/4" hose adapter in hand.

3. Disconnecting the 1/4" hose from the filter and immediately lifting it above the level of
the fuel in the tank. You can now relax.

4. Cutting the hose to the correct length.

5. After a bit of cleanup at the filter, screwing the valve and its nipple into the filter.

6. Double clamp everything in sight that doesn't move..

A bit of a caution when sealing the pipe threads................. don't use teflon tape. Diesel fuel has a way of very slowly wicking out of the threads over the years. Use Permatex #2 for guaranteed leak free threaded joints.

Sailm8 · Dec 30, 2013

The PO on my boat installed a second filter with an A-Off-B valve. If it clogs I can just switch it over.

jsalley · Dec 30, 2013

You can also use a pair of smooth-jaw Vise Grips to pinch off the fuel hose just ahead of the Racor while you change the filter. As long as your hoses are still pliable, this doesn't damage them.

Allan12210 · Dec 30, 2013

Hi Clyde,

I added a shutoff valve right at the Racor for the same reasons. Too much trouble to climb down into the basement and shut it off at the tank. It works fine.

I'm right in your own backyard....San Jose. If you want, send me a personal message and I would be glad to chat about it with you. Don't know where your boat is, but ours is in Alameda. 65 mph hard to weather right up 880.

Allan

Ralph Johnstone · Dec 30, 2013

Allan12210 said:
I added a shutoff valve right at the Racor for the same reasons. Too much trouble to climb down into the basement and shut it off at the tank. It works fine.

Gotta ask Allan ................ you've got a clear hose coming from (what looks like) a manual drain valve on the bottom of the filter:

1. Does this hose lead to an automatic water drain ?

2. If automatic, what is the principle of the water sensor ?

Or am I just imagining things ?

Allan12210 · Dec 31, 2013

Ralph Johnstone said:
Gotta ask Allan ................ you've got a clear hose coming from (what looks like) a manual drain valve on the bottom of the filter:

1. Does this hose lead to an automatic water drain ?

2. If automatic, what is the principle of the water sensor ?

Or am I just imagining things ?

Hi Ralph,

Nothing too exciting about that hose. It's about an inch longer than you can see so I can put a water bottle on the motormount and drain the filter directly into it. Keeps the mess to a minimum. There is no water sensor...the other wires you see are part of an experiment with an exhaust fan to bring in fresh air and evacuate odors.

Allan

Tom J · Jan 1, 2014

Clydo said:
Before long will replace filter in fuel water separator for first time. Appears
it is below fuel tank level and would required closing fuel to engine valve.
Since it may not be too much fun for my 6'1" 200 lb 85 year old body
to crawl back to tank to close valve thought about installing shut off
valve just before fuel water separator. Anyone done this? On the other hand
may not be all that much trouble to get to it on tank? Thanks for
any response.

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
ILEANTOO
San Jose, CA

The C310 has two fuel shut off valves located under the starboard corner seat in the cockpit. They are mounted on top of the fuel tank and can be reached by leaning into the area under the seat. It helps to have long arms. I normally shut off both valves when I change the fuel filters. Hope this is helpful.

c130king · Jan 1, 2014

I found that both of the valves on top of my fuel tank were "frozen" and when I tried to shut them off the levers started to bend/break. So I stopped.

However, I have an inline shut-off valve going into the fuel filter/water separator that allows me to shut-off the fuel when doing filter changes.

I am going to find a piece of tubing like Allan has to drain the water separator bowl. That is a neat technique and beats trying to "catch" all that fuel with a double-lined walmart bag lined with fuel absorbent pads.

Cheers,
Jim

Bob James · Jan 3, 2014

Clydo: An inline 1/4 turn shut off valve is a simple, cheap and effective solution.

pan zagloba · Feb 16, 2014

While I got my tank shut off valves to close, i still think it is worthwhile to install the fuel shut-off valve at the Racor for all the reasons cited in this thread.

I am sure I can do this install, but I need some help with the particulars of the valve and any necessary adaptors. In my 310, I have the Racor 215R. the specs relate that the fuel ports are SAEJ 476 1/4" NPTF. My call is that the valve would be male to male. Is the fuel hose 1/4" ID? should I look for a shut-off valve male 1/4 to male 1/4"? The valve would have to be threaded on the filter side, but barbed on the hose side? Am I close?

Help! Could someone spec the materials out for me on this job?

Ralph Johnstone · Feb 16, 2014

pan zagloba said:
the Racor 215R. the specs relate that the fuel ports are SAEJ 476 1/4" NPTF.

Take the parts list in the photo to any reputable plumbing shop and they will be able to fill the order. As mentioned in my above post, use Permatex 2 to seal the threads as teflon tape often leaks with petroleum products.

pan zagloba · Feb 17, 2014

Thank you Ralph, i did as you suggested, and $10 later i have the whole assembly ready to install. The shopping helped clear up my confusion about the connection to be found on a shut off valve, which

pan zagloba · Feb 17, 2014

Continuing, the connections are both female, you don't get to choose other combinations. so I now see why a male nipple and and a male barb are needed. Ready to go. Thanks again.

Maine Sail · Feb 18, 2014

1/4" fuel shut offs are avaible in male/female configurations. If you are not using the other port and have the swing room it avoids one more connection..

They are also available in male to hose....

Ralph Johnstone · Feb 18, 2014

I would NOT recommend using this type of valve as it is a tapered plug valve and has a poor stem seal at the top of the valve. It could get away with living in a large engine room where a little bit of leakage would be acceptable but not under the sole in a sailboat. Best to stick with a modern ball valve. Even better if you could find a ball valve in this configuration.

Maine Sail · Feb 18, 2014

Ralph Johnstone said:
I would NOT recommend using this type of valve as it is a tapered plug valve and has a poor stem seal at the top of the valve. It could get away with living in a large engine room where a little bit of leakage would be acceptable but not under the sole in a sailboat. Best to stick with a modern ball valve. Even better if you could find a ball valve in this configuration.

Those are actually UL Marine rated fuel shut off valves, but I agree entirely....

When those valves came out ball valves could not pass the 2.5 minute burn tests that were included/required by UL. Today I think pretty much any 600PSI WOG valve can do that..

I much prefer a standard ball valve and they too are widely available in male/female that photo was more a representation of what you can find out there..

It should be noted that this particular valve passes ABYC standards but an external spring tapered plug valve does not. Most of that type of valve, if you want a good one, will be made by Anderson Brass Valve a US company. They are sold under many brands but Andersons brand is Kantleak...

These male female valve are used widely in hydronic systems to mount coin vents to so that when the vent needs replacement you simply close the valve and thread in a new vent..

I even use a male/female ball valve for engine cooling system bleeding mounted right into the t-stat housing.. Much better than burning your fingers on those "pet cocks"....

Ralph Johnstone · Feb 18, 2014

Maine Sail said:
It should be noted that this particular valve passes ABYC standards but an external spring tapered plug valve does not.

I not surprised that the external spring loaded tapered plug valves were rejected. I've seen small ones used with grease fittings on steam sliding expansion joints. If the grease is fried in the channel leading into the joint packing, the mechanics would lean into the grease gun and you'd see the tapered plug lift out of the body (against the spring) and spew grease around the valve.

I've seen oil refineries built in the 40's and 50's and tapered and straight plug valves were about the only thing available for a small cheap valve. Teflon for ball valves hadn't been thought of yet. I think teflon seated ball valves reared their heads sometime in the 70's or early 80's. I know that boats built much before the 80's have always lagged technology by about a half century.

Any idea when the ABYC appeared ?

Fuel shut off fuel water separator

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