323 Bimini/Dodger transition.

DougM

.
Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
I have had my B323 since '05 and never before had a Bimini or Dodger. Now the war department has requested installation.
My question is how to do a transition piece between the dodger and Bimini and still have visibility forward. The dodger obviously must be no taller than the bottom of the boom, and in my case, I need clearance under the Bimini for my 6'7" height , which means that the Bimini has to be taller than the end of the boom by several inches. If I am going to spend the money to do this, I want something in a combination that is not only functional, but looks reasonably attractive.
 

arf145

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Nov 4, 2010
495
Beneteau 331 Deale, MD
I don't believe the connector pieces are usually meant to be left on while moving. Certainly ours would obstruct our view forward completely, so we only use it at anchor.

To get your 6'7" clearance under the bimini means a small bimini aft of the boom, as you've figured. You might just have to go with that strip of a bimini and the dodger while underway.
 

Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
I have had my B323 since '05 and never before had a Bimini or Dodger. Now the war department has requested installation.
My question is how to do a transition piece between the dodger and Bimini and still have visibility forward. The dodger obviously must be no taller than the bottom of the boom, and in my case, I need clearance under the Bimini for my 6'7" height , which means that the Bimini has to be taller than the end of the boom by several inches. If I am going to spend the money to do this, I want something in a combination that is not only functional, but looks reasonably attractive.
I have a zip-out connector that attaches to the front of the bimini and back of the dodger. However, my bimini is cleared (just barely) by the boom, so the distance between the dodger and the bimini is less than 2 feet. In practice the connector, which has a stratglass window, is an annoyance when underway. It makes it difficult for the crew to monitor sail trim and obstructs visibility. So I don't use the connector unless we are at anchor or in the slip.


The other concern you will need to monitor is clearance for the mainsheet blocks and sheets - mine are very close to forward bow of the dodger. There is no room for a rolled-up dodger window.
 
Jan 2, 2009
36
beneteau 323 Riverside NJ
dodger/bimini and the boom

Hi Doug:
I have the same boat as you and you are very smart to be thinking the way you are. I am also tall.

The part about a zipped in piece could not be more correct and if you wish to sail, you must undue the connecting piece if you wish to know where you are going and to see your mast.

There is another problem here that took me some time to figure out-guess I am a bit slow. We have in-mast furling and if that main sail is to go up the mast correctly, you must have, must have as close to an angle of 90 degrees as possible between the mast and the boom or the sail will not furl and unfurl properly. Frequently if you have the topping lift tied tightly, you will never get this 90 degree angle. And just as frequently, if you loosen and lower the topping lift line, you will find that the boom will rest on the top of your bimini and the support bar going across the beam to hold the bimini up.

So, how do you/I get around this. Swing the boom to the Starboard side with the loosen topping lift as well as loosening the Boom Vange when raising the main sail. Then unfurl the sail. When this action is complete, you adjust the topping lift and boom vange to acceptable levels to clear the bimini. Of course a true sailor will explain to that by doing this, you will effect the shape of the main sail and yes it does because by tightening back up the topping line, you will have again created an angle between the boom and the mast that is something closer to 83-85 degrees. You need to have the boom being able to swing back and forth over the bimini as the wind and your direction changes, so I see know way really around this Operation that I have describe other than to consider lowering the tubes that are constructed to hold the bimini up to begin with, but like you, I am a tall guy and you will be bending over all day long.

If I am missing something or someone out there who has a different idea about this whole situation, I sure would like to know myself
 
May 24, 2007
185
Beneteau 352 Milwaukee, WI
I have had my B323 since '05 and never before had a Bimini or Dodger. Now the war department has requested installation.
My question is how to do a transition piece between the dodger and Bimini and still have visibility forward. The dodger obviously must be no taller than the bottom of the boom, and in my case, I need clearance under the Bimini for my 6'7" height , which means that the Bimini has to be taller than the end of the boom by several inches. If I am going to spend the money to do this, I want something in a combination that is not only functional, but looks reasonably attractive.
Always a constant battle . . . my need for speed (sail trim) vs. the admiral's need for shade.

The trailing edge of the dodger and the leading edge of the bimini have zippers sewn in. The connector is zipped in place most of the time.

A view of the main and it's trailing edge required a "window" panel sewn into the bimini. We have a Velcro attached matching sunbrella panel for the overhead window panel for shade at anchor/dock and UV protection.

Your height may require a window panel for both the connector (forward vision with connector installed) and the bimini.

We do a bit of distance cruising on the Great Lakes and I can tell you that the full overhead cover makes it much more enjoyable. Happy wife, happy life!

Enjoy!
 
Mar 3, 2012
7
Always a constant battle . . . my need for speed (sail trim) vs. the admiral's need for shade. The trailing edge of the dodger and the leading edge of the bimini have zippers sewn in. The connector is zipped in place most of the time. A view of the main and it's trailing edge required a "window" panel sewn into the bimini. We have a Velcro attached matching sunbrella panel for the overhead window panel for shade at anchor/dock and UV protection. Your height may require a window panel for both the connector (forward vision with connector installed) and the bimini. We do a bit of distance cruising on the Great Lakes and I can tell you that the full overhead cover makes it much more enjoyable. Happy wife, happy life! Enjoy!


I have a 2005 323 and want to add a dodger, but wonder where and how it snaps in along the cabin top. If any 323 owners have photos of their dodger installations that they could post it would be much appreciated
 
Jul 8, 2005
522
Jeanneau 389 Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
Hey DougM,

We have this transition piece on our B321 and rarely use it.
It is used only when the weather is very bad (heavy rain) or when we want to close up the entire cabin at night with screens we also have. This is nice since it is like a screened in porch.

We rarely use it under sail.

I have had my B323 since '05 and never before had a Bimini or Dodger. Now the war department has requested installation.
My question is how to do a transition piece between the dodger and Bimini and still have visibility forward. The dodger obviously must be no taller than the bottom of the boom, and in my case, I need clearance under the Bimini for my 6'7" height , which means that the Bimini has to be taller than the end of the boom by several inches. If I am going to spend the money to do this, I want something in a combination that is not only functional, but looks reasonably attractive.
 

DougM

.
Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
As to how the dodger is secured along the cabin top, I suspected that I would be adding shims under the attachment points for the track which is essentially a bridge. Then I could slip the front tab of the dodger beneath it securing with snaps forward of the track.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions...
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
I made my dodger from scratch. Following the idea of another guy, I supported the front bow with 2 struts, one from either side of the hatchway. Across those strust I put a slab of (5/16?)x 2.5 wood to put snaps on the secure the canvas to. I, still have enough of the canvas in place that I can push it under the travler track. I am still making the dodger, but i'd say the canvas will fit under the traveler, but the car might rub on it. That would depend on the angle of the dodger. Also, there is an aluminum boltrope track that you can span across the hatch-slider opening, but I was sure it would easily bend. I am surprised i do not have any pics, but i'll take some when the weather clears.