NOCOLD Fridge conversion kit? advice

Richard Kollmann · Dec 29, 2013

If you are saying compressor has positively been confirmed it will not run then it is easy for a DIY repair in most cases at little or no cost. If you have confirmed compressor does run because it does not get warm then there is a more serious problem affecting refrigerant volume or even electronic board in stainless box is faulty.. All AB systems with BD50 compressors have a trouble shooting LED that flashes when there is a simple problem how many times does it flash every 4 seconds? Do not let anyone tell you compressor is bad this is state of the art compressor.

The Norcold unit will cool a 6 cubic ft box in a cool climate but it produces less than half the AB Btu capacity of a BD50 compressor system. Because this Norcold condensing unit is cooled by static air only their manual recommends it be located in a compartment of at least 100 cubic ft for best efficiency. The automatic AC/DC function is a great advantage when connected to shorepower.

nolasafari · Dec 29, 2013

colinhulse said:
My old Alder Barbour 50 series died. They want 1200 all in to replace it. Norcold offers the SCQT-4408F through West Marine much cheaper. What I also like is that it seamlessly switches to 120 volts at the dock. I can't see a downside. Anyone know this unit. I have a 5.5 cubic foot fridge. top loader.

I would never by a refrigeration system named NOCOLD.

I had a similar system not the exactly the same in a prior boat it always struggled to cool in the warm summer months and lasted only a few years before I pulled it out. Here in New Orleans the summer days are in the low to mid nineties.

Chris Patterson · Dec 29, 2013

Man I wish I could just take this whole boat to Richard. My ol' 12v Grunnert has never worked, and it's one of those things that I bear in mind the words from the great philosopher, Clint Eastwood, who said, "Every man oughta know his limitations".
Truth is, the coils inside the box look like they have leprosy, and I have no clue what to do with it. Knowing me, I'd throw twice the money at it that it needed, and still have warm milk.

(But from what I've read on Richards site, I'd tend to take his advice fellers).

DougM · Dec 30, 2013

I have a similar issue and I believe my fridge is a Frigiboat or something like that.. It has never really cooled the icebox and the compressor runs 100% of the time. My thought was that it was the result of insufficient insulation around the icebox, insufficient cooling airflow around the compressor, and possibly low or total lack of refrigerant in the system. It's purely a 12 volt system as well. My solution? I don't use the thing. There does not appear to be any kind of a fitting to check/ recharge the refrigerant either. I suppose I coud tear it out of the boat, scrap it, and gain an extra 1000th of a knot in boat speed .

Old Skool Neil · Dec 30, 2013

Nova Kool LT-201 Series. Installed it myself 7 years ago, has run daily ever since without a single hiccup. Even with the marginal insulation of my vintage Catalina 30 I can easily turn my entire box into a deep freeze. I usually run at thermostat setting '3', gets the beer ice cold but not slushy. Under 4 amps running load (12VDC only), low voltage cutoff protection, dry bilge.

Original cost ~ under $1K, warranted for 2 years. It has been one of the best boat purchases I've made.

Richard Kollmann · Jan 1, 2014

colinhulse said:
Yeah, the dealer warned me that the Norcold is underpowered. So back to the AB unit I guess. As to the post that it can be repaired, it is a 1984 unit. The refrigerant is banned. I believe there is a replacement but the unit is dry and has been for four years. A local AC guy started drooling when I said it is in a boat. It would run me 300 to have it pulled and serviced with no warranty. Everyone else said they couldn't help. I can install an up to date unit for 1100 guess I will bite the bullet. Thanks.

If after refrigerator compressor has been running 1/2 hour and only if it does not got warm to the touch will there be a refrigerant problem. If compressor does not get warm solution is simple to correct as it is electrical.

No start up troubleshooting 4 pin modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. One of the 10 transistors in this fan fails it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.
If Compressor runs after black wire disconnected replace fan.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value at module. Now if compressor runs there is a bad electrical connection somewhere in boats wiring causing a low voltage spike during compressor startup.
Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit.

I closed my shop but after seeing what is being charged by boat refrigeration companies who will test modules charging $50 and charging as high as $385 for new 4 pin modules, I decided to test and sell modules for a fraction of what is currently being charged.

If your shipping address is in the US I will test your module on my Danfoss compressor refrigeration test stand. This test stand will run at max compressor load for a one hour. I will then return your module to you for a shipping and handling charge of $20.

Four pin modules for BD2.5 and BD3 twelve volt compressors only:

New module non Danfoss $150 plus $15 insured shipping. Modules will only be shipped to addresses in the US.

Because your unit is old and if it needs a new electronic module there is a risk that something is wrong that caused module to fail so most companies will refuse warranty of these modules. This is my electronic module warranty:

If any used module I sell fails to operate your unit it can be returned within 30 days for a full refund.
Any new module I sell can be returned for full credit within 30 days. Because of my own risk involved for the next 11 months I will return only 50% of the new units purchase price if module is returned within the first year.

To have module tested or purchase a new four pin module send check to:

Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL, 33312

Richard Kollmann
http://www.kollmann-marine.com

RECESS · Jan 8, 2014

nolasafari said:
I would never by a refrigeration system named NOCOLD.

Now that this is resolved, I just wanted to add that I really did laugh out loud at that!

ckgreenman · May 4, 2015

Richard,
Maybe you can give me some pointers on my AB system. I don't have the model number handy but it's in a 1984 Catalina 27. I think it's a Cold Machine DC12 or something similar. When i first got the boat it wasn't working. The fan would spin and drop RPMs when the compressor started to turn. I could hear it trying so I checked voltages. I determined the wiring at the panel was bad so I rewired the panel wiring and that got it running. Then I found it was empty of refrigerant. a previous owner had installed an r134 tap so I assumed they had tried to convert it. The tap had a damaged schrader valve so I purchased another one and charged the fridge. It worked up until this spring. I went to fire it up for the first time this year only to find the compressor not working again. This time when the fan speed drops the compressor makes absolutely no noise and resting my hand on it, I feel nothing when it tried to start. Checking voltage drops at the panel reveal nothing. I did some checking and the 15A fuse on the module was melted a bit. I replaced that and still nothing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Richard Kollmann said:
If after refrigerator compressor has been running 1/2 hour and only if it does not got warm to the touch will there be a refrigerant problem. If compressor does not get warm solution is simple to correct as it is electrical.

No start up troubleshooting 4 pin modules consists of the following:

1. Place jumper wire across thermostat terminals, Compressor still does not run.

2. Disconnect black fan wire from electronic module. Compressor still does not run after fan ground wire is disconnected. One of the 10 transistors in this fan fails it can cause module to prevent compressor from running.
If Compressor runs after black wire disconnected replace fan.

3. Run correct size and correct polarity fused jumper wires direct from a fully charged battery to module in order to bypass all boat’s wiring. Volt meter readings are of no value at module. Now if compressor runs there is a bad electrical connection somewhere in boats wiring causing a low voltage spike during compressor startup.
Compressor still does not run electronic module needs to be tested on another unit.

I closed my shop but after seeing what is being charged by boat refrigeration companies who will test modules charging $50 and charging as high as $385 for new 4 pin modules, I decided to test and sell modules for a fraction of what is currently being charged.

If your shipping address is in the US I will test your module on my Danfoss compressor refrigeration test stand. This test stand will run at max compressor load for a one hour. I will then return your module to you for a shipping and handling charge of $20.

Four pin modules for BD2.5 and BD3 twelve volt compressors only:

New module non Danfoss $150 plus $15 insured shipping. Modules will only be shipped to addresses in the US.

Because your unit is old and if it needs a new electronic module there is a risk that something is wrong that caused module to fail so most companies will refuse warranty of these modules. This is my electronic module warranty:

If any used module I sell fails to operate your unit it can be returned within 30 days for a full refund.
Any new module I sell can be returned for full credit within 30 days. Because of my own risk involved for the next 11 months I will return only 50% of the new units purchase price if module is returned within the first year.

To have module tested or purchase a new four pin module send check to:

Richard Kollmann
2430 Sugarloaf LN
Ft. Lauderdale FL, 33312

Richard Kollmann
http://www.kollmann-marine.com