Furler line

[All U Get]

Hi all,

I was doing some reading and came across a tidbit and wondered if anyone might have tried this. Has anyone pulled the center core out of their furler line in order to have it lie flat on the roller drum? Would the outer sheath be strong enough? I was thinking of removing 20 feet of inner core would still allow me to have a full line to begin the reefing when needed. The claim is to also help negate the line fouling tangle. Any thoughts?

All U Get

 

[BobM]

Hi all,

I was doing some reading and came across a tidbit and wondered if anyone might have tried this. Has anyone pulled the center core out of their furler line in order to have it lie flat on the roller drum? Would the outer sheath be strong enough? I was thinking of removing 20 feet of inner core would still allow me to have a full line to begin the reefing when needed. The claim is to also help negate the line fouling tangle. Any thoughts?

All U Get

Yes I absolutely recommend this mod. It is easy to do too. I only had one jam since and it was because I didn't maintain tension on the sheet as I furled.

 

[kappykaplan]

Tom, before I got my new furler two seasons ago (no more spare parts!), the core was removed from about 20' of the furler line. Had zero problems.

 

[Pat]

We did iit about 8 years...maybe longer. I read about it in the Layline put out by North Sails I think, and it worked like a champ....I had West Marine pick the line because I was not sure which one would have the strongest cover...at any rate it worked like a champ until this last fall. Will do it again in the spring...It solves the issue of the furler (headsail) not being completely furl-able in high winds....just worked like a champ!...
I highly recommend doing this). By the way...we did not remove the core from the aft
15 ft. or so of line so it remain easy on the hands. Patrick

 

[Don12364]

Did mine years ago using the line that was there from new. It caused one problem in that the thin flat line now found it possible to work its way over the rim of the drum between rim and wire cage. (See 'Rope Trap' arrow on photo 'Furler Drum Before.jpg').
This resulted in a very hairy half hour when, single handed, and after a 60 mile dead run up the English Channel in a building wind, my attempt to navigate the 'Needles Channel' an hour too early when a spring tide was rushing out was just about to become most hairy because I was unable to roll up the jib with the furling line caught underneath the drum rim and the boat was leaping from wave top to wave top.
In the event I 'hove to' and eventually, and after much struggle, hand rolled the sail from the foredeck and all was then safely accomplished.

After which I anchored in the lee of Hurst Spit and slept for eight hours solid.
Directly after I made a stationary plate that fits above the rim and then it is impossible for the line to get caught. See attachments to this and also open the 'pdf for the engineering drawing of the two half plates and their link plates.

 

[Bob S]

I replaced mine a few years back. I contacted Hood and they recommended 2x the boat length 1/3 cored. In my case 60' 20' cored. I bought it from Defender and they cored it for me. I've had no problems.

 

[All U Get]

Thank you all, I guess I'll have to look into doing this. I have a Hood furler that fills when I role in the 135 headsail. This should be a good project and Donalex thanks for the caution.

All U Get

 

[Stu Jackson]

We have two different jibs, a 110 and an 85. Whenever I change them out, I rotate the drum so that the correct amount of line (not too much) goes on the drum. Never thought I needed to do this mod. Still haven't after 15 years.

 

[BobM]

We have two different jibs, a 110 and an 85. Whenever I change them out, I rotate the drum so that the correct amount of line (not too much) goes on the drum. Never thought I needed to do this mod. Still haven't after 15 years.

It is more of an issue with a larger headsail due to the need for additional line to complete furling of the longer sail. I agree that leaving about a boat length of core at the tail helps with handling. Core removal is recommended by some furler manufacturers. If in doubt contact yours.

Regarding jams, it is key to have tension on the sheet while pulling the furling line and also to keep tension on the sheet when unfurling. That way you get a nice neat spool of line on the drum with no weird overlays.

 

[wufibugs]

What size are the jib sheets folks are coring? Seems like 3/8" is pretty common.

 

[kappykaplan]

Not coring jib sheets - coring the furler line.

 

[Dan Johnson]

Furling line...

When I replaced my furling line last year, I removed the first 18 feet of core so that a 150 could be furled if need be. This is how the furling line that came with the boat was rigged.

With the 110 I start with a fully wound drum and furl it, leaving more line and the flattened tail still on the drum.

 

[DougM]

I like the idea of coring the furling line. Here's something else to consider though:
How about a smaller diameter line? Some of the product out there today has much more relative strength and it's possible to get more turns on the furler drum. Just think of the sail as and oversized window shade. There usually is not that much load one the line. In either case, as someone else noted, it's important to keep tension on the jib sheet while furling.

 

[Ron20324]

....I have a Hood furler that fills when I role in the 135 headsail.... All U Get

For those running out of drum space because they are using bigger sails, you might want to check that your furler is rated for the load you intend to be having.

 

[wufibugs]

I'm sorry. Don't know why I wrote "jib sheet" when I meant "furler line". I was wondering whether folks were coring whatever came with the furler [would have to measure mine], were upsizing, downsizing, or if there is an accepted formula. In looking at the archives there is debate all the way from 5/16 to 7/8 (I assume the big stuff is just for ease of handling).

 

[Chris Patterson]

If it comes to 7/8" line on a drum, it's time to start considering hydraulics..

 

[All U Get]

If it comes to 7/8" line on a drum, it's time to start considering hydraulics..

Funny, I read 3/8" until I read your post. I guess Wifibugs and I started New Years early.:naughty:

All U Get

 

[Chris Patterson]

Haaaha. Shoot, I don't blame you.

The funny thing is, my stupid a** didn't even THINK it was meant 3/8". I was wondering what the drum would look like with 7/8" line..

 

[Ron20324]

Haaaha. Shoot, I don't blame you. The funny thing is, my stupid a** didn't even THINK it was meant 3/8". I was wondering what the drum would look like with 7/8" line..

You should change that erroneous post. Edit.

 

[Joe]

I like the idea of coring the furling line. Here's something else to consider though:
How about a smaller diameter line? Some of the product out there today has much more relative strength and it's possible to get more turns on the furler drum. Just think of the sail as and oversized window shade. There usually is not that much load one the line. In either case, as someone else noted, it's important to keep tension on the jib sheet while furling.

Build a "tapered" line by adding a cover to the portion that is handled and cleated. That's a popular rigging technique to increase strength and lower weight for halyards and sheets. You can strip the cover from an existing hi tech double braid like Warpspeed, or add an inexpensive cover to a dyneema single braid core such as Samson Amsteel. Check this out: https://www.apsltd.com/c-1539-splicingservices-halyardssheetsguys.aspx

However, in the case of the furling line... the idea is that de-coring the line in the drum section where strength is not critical will return the benefit of the line lying flat in the furler when the sail is deployed.