I'm looking for a reasonably priced source for acoustical foam like the product used in the engine compartment of my 83 H30. I've looked at the stuff at Auto Zone and Advance Auto. Not really what I'm looking for.
Acoustical foam
- Thread starter Nereussailor
- Start date
Soundown kits are good
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|311|2349105&id=96141
I used this before the season to replace the old foam dissolving into powder. Great kit with everything you need. Worked very well.
Rob
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|311|2349105&id=96141
I used this before the season to replace the old foam dissolving into powder. Great kit with everything you need. Worked very well.
Rob
How much do you need?
The sound instillation on my 83 h-30 is also dissolving into powder. But is 12 sq feet in the suggested kit enough ?
The sound instillation on my 83 h-30 is also dissolving into powder. But is 12 sq feet in the suggested kit enough ?
Last winter my wife and I glued the barrier with the lead middle to the ceiling of the engine room. Nasty job but we managed to keep stuff covered with plastic. I did get plenty glue on me but the results have been great. We still have a small area on the bulkhead left to do. I used G-Flex epoxy on the holding pins and then wrapped whipping wire around the pins as additional support to the acoustical foam. Here's a pic...
All U Get
All U Get
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Thanks for the link rgranger. What's funnyis that I found this yesterday about the same time you posted. I'm thinking the heavy duty foil faced. Does anyone think the self adhesive would make life easier? With all of the oil that was sprayed everywhere, I'm wondering if I would be able to make it stick.
go the auto parts store and get some break parts cleaner in a spray can ...maybe 2 cans ...place some old towels at the bottom of the bulk heads and spray the infected are ....it will claen up nicely and then the glue on the foam will stick...through the rags in a water filled bucket for discarding .......word of caution no open flames while doing this.....
this is not the only way to do this but it is one way ......
regards
woody
I'd add ventillation to the caution list..... you could get very stoned very fast (and not in a good way) if you aren't careful. Lowes sells respirators for use with oil based paints and epoxy etc. You can also buy them at James T. Davis. They are made by 3M and cost about $40. I use them anytime I'm doing epoxy work.
But I think the idea is a good one. Some cheap carbeurator cleaner and a pile of rags and you will get the surfaces very clean and ready for some adhesion. You might also want to try some of that two sided carpet tape. If you have never used the stuff it is extreamly sticky and the "tape" is actually a 1" strip of fiberglass tape. Run strips of that along the "ceiling" of your engine room and then put it up. Stuff is only $5 at Walmart
You may consider going a different route, Dynamat. I have used this in my cars and like the results, it bonds very tightly to the surface and will not crumble like foam. It absorbs the vibrations and noise as well as a heat barrier. If you have a stainless steel sink you likely have a similar product fixed to the under side.
I've never heard an explanation as to why some sound absorbing foams turn to dust and others don't. Pulling out the bad kind is a miserable job.
Are there two different kinds of foam chemistries used or is it just a quality thing?
Are there two different kinds of foam chemistries used or is it just a quality thing?
I am trying to remember a instance of 30 year old foam that was still good, from my limited experience with old outboard cowlings they all fail and start to fall apart. Maybe it is the glue that breaks down the foam or maybe the hot and cold cycles, who knows. I do remember a 1976 Cutlass with a headliner that liked to fall on my head and blown foam in my eyes, good times.