Question Regarding Installing Solbian panels on a bimini?

[firehoser75]

I have read several threads regarding solar, and in particular the Solbian flexible panel threads.... but I still have a few questions.
Is there a "stiffening" backing needed for attachment to the panel prior to mounting on the bimini?
Do you have to ensure there is a slight "pitch" to the bimini for water drainage? (Such as a centre support bar (or 2) to achieve a slight high spot in the middle of the bimini (side to side) , and/or a slight fore to aft slant)
When using 2 controllers for 2 panels, what does the wiring look like from the controller to the house bank. Are they "joined" using a block or some other specialty piece and then one wire (set) run to the batteries, or are they each attached to separate batteries in the bank. My bank consists of 4 golf carts.
I am planning on installing one Solbian using the velcro method described in Maine Sail's earlier post.... and these last details will ensure I do it correctly. The second panel will be a Kyocera mounted on my davits.
Thanks,
Tom

 

[jacrider]

Tom: We have two Solbian panel's (CP125) on our bimini. Photo attached.

We mounted them across the bimini and there is a centre support frame under them. They are pretty flat, but the stainless frame, supports them well.

In terms of wiring, I simply went from each of the two controllers to a positive post on the battery bank. I run 4 6V golf cart batteries as the house bank.

General feedback is the output was great. Our boat has two fridges and even with that much draw, we almost never ran our diesel to charge the batteries.

Great addition that isn't intrusive or noticeable. Unless you know they are there, you can't see them.

 

[firehoser75]

Jacrider,
Thanks for the prompt reply and photo. All very helpful. Also good to hear that the output is worthwhile and you are happy with your setup.
I wonder if anyone else (esp. Maine Sail) has anything to add.
Regards,
Tom

 

[Maine Sail]

Jacrider,
Thanks for the prompt reply and photo. All very helpful. Also good to hear that the output is worthwhile and you are happy with your setup.
I wonder if anyone else (esp. Maine Sail) has anything to add.
Regards,
Tom

No stiffeners are needed but they do not recommend passing over a bow. Heat can develop at the bow/panel junction and or the bow can crack the cells if the fit of the canvas is sloppy.

Keep the bend as small as possible and in one direction only. This means you should not bend port/starboard and fore/aft at the same time, either fore/aft or port/starboard, but not both...

Two controllers/panels, one output:

 

[firehoser75]

Thanks Maine.
This final info will help me alot! The photo is great.
I was planning on using 2 support bars (running fore and aft) spaced equidistant between two of the bimini bows..... Glad I asked as now I will just ensure that my bimini is tight, and will place the panel between two of the bows.
Thanks again,
Tom

 

[Bob 04 H260]

I think on a hard bimini the flexible panels would work well. I looked at them for our boat, we have a sunbrella bimini. I was concerned about constant flexing of the panels with wind fluttering the cloth. At least one of the web sites selling these panels warned about constant flexing shortening the life of the panel significantly. I don't know what that means exactly but they are quite a bit more expensive than a framed panel so we are now looking at two matched framed panels over the bimini instead.

Bob

 

[Maine Sail]

I think on a hard bimini the flexible panels would work well. I looked at them for our boat, we have a sunbrella bimini. I was concerned about constant flexing of the panels with wind fluttering the cloth. At least one of the web sites selling these panels warned about constant flexing shortening the life of the panel significantly. I don't know what that means exactly but they are quite a bit more expensive than a framed panel so we are now looking at two matched framed panels over the bimini instead.

Bob

With a properly built, supported and tensioned bimini there should be no fluttering of the panel.. The fluttering & flapping kills Sunbrella too so best to properly install and tension the bimini even without a panel...

The biggest concerns are the bows and how much bend... I have two installs that just recently arrived in the Carib from the NE. Despite being battered by 40+ knots and large seas the panels remained up on the biminis and they both arrived in one piece...

 

[firehoser75]

Bimini and Sobian Panel now on the boat

However, the industrial velcro (with the glue that is already on the velcro) is not sticking to the panel. Is there a special glue that should be used? Wiring and connection still to come, but shortly.
Thanks,
Tom

 

[Maine Sail]

However, the industrial velcro (with the glue that is already on the velcro) is not sticking to the panel. Is there a special glue that should be used? Wiring and connection still to come, but shortly.
Thanks,
Tom

You did peel the protective plastic off then clean the edges with denatured alcohol? Never seen peel n stick Velcro not stick to a Solbian..?

 

[firehoser75]

The canvas maker installed the velcro. She did remove the protective plastic, but I am not sure about the cleaning with alcohol. I will try that with new velcro.
One last set of questions, if I may. I have purchased 2 Genasun GV 10 lead acid charge controllers for my 2 solar panels. The panels are a Solbian 125W and a regular 145W glass poly panel. In earlier posts, it has been stated that using the solar "equalization" is not a good idea, but if I use the supplied "jumper" to set the controller for lead acid, there is no way to stop the equalization every 30 days. Therefore, do I just use the "sealed" battery setting as it comes from Genasun? If so, this drops the bulk and absorption voltage but raises the float voltage from the "lead acid" setting. Is that an issue? My batteries are 4 Trojan golf carts, with a separate start battery. Also, the controller says the recommended max power for a panel is 140 watts. The rated output of my PV 145 panel is below the 10.5 amps the controller states it can handle (panel lpm 8.24 amps and VoC 22.1 V). Also, should I be worried about voltage drop, as the panels are going to be about 25 to 30 feet away from the controllers if I want to have a short run (about 4 to 5 feet) from the controllers to the batteries?
I think I have asked every question known to man in this regard, but I would like to get this correct, the first time.
Thanks for everyone's help,
Tom

 

[sailing1000]

Re: Question Regarding Installing Solbian panels on a bimini

Main,

Are you aware of any new solar panel products that do not require pivoting to the sun direction to maintain maximum rated output?

Adam

 

[Maine Sail]

Main,

Are you aware of any new solar panel products that do not require pivoting to the sun direction to maintain maximum rated output?

Adam

No such beast. On a boat we do the best we can and that is normally flat. Unless you are there, and can manually manage them for better output, we do the best we can..

 

[Brian S]

You gotta catch photons to knock electrons off, and generate current. You're always going to be able to knock off more electrons with the photons hitting the cells dead on, hence the need to point panels directly at the sun…

Main,

Are you aware of any new solar panel products that do not require pivoting to the sun direction to maintain maximum rated output?

Adam

 

[Jeremy_r]

Panels that don't need to face the sun?

The idea behind Solyndra's product was to use small specially coated cylinders that would reduce the losses associated with an off axis angle to the sun. Needless to say, they didn't succeed in the marketplace against the sharply falling prices of panels using standard technology.

You gotta catch photons to knock electrons off, and generate current. You're always going to be able to knock off more electrons with the photons hitting the cells dead on, hence the need to point panels directly at the sun…