C 30 traveller problem

LuzSD · Oct 3, 2013

gosh I just spent about 5 minutes just trying to visualize what you were describing. I wasn't very successful. Can you take a picture, that would make it really easy

mortyd · Oct 4, 2013

i have a 91 and probably had the same set up have you do when my boat came from the factory. i also had the same frustation you do. then i replaced the factroy traveler with one from garhauer and it's now a pleasure to use. it wasn't all that expensive.

rgarrison@gmail.com · Oct 5, 2013

I agree with Mort above. Price them out before you start drilling.

jrowan · Oct 12, 2013

If the linestopper or fairleads are not through bolted, then what makes you think that
there's something else where they are drilled & screwed down into the cabin top, other then the fiberglass sandwiching the balsa wood core? Catalina and your P.O.'s routinely drilled holes & installed items on deck without through bolting smaller screws & without filling around the holes with epoxy, etc. Sailors & builders in the 70's & 80's just weren't as conscious or conscientious about preventing core rot & damage back then as they are today. We see the results of what wasn't done properly 25 years later, unfortunately.

drazlou · Oct 13, 2013

I replaced the single starboard sheet stopper with a triple on my 94 C30. When I tried to anchor the additional screws from the triple stopper into the fiberglass of the coach roof I broke the first screw off. I went back and looked at the screws which had attached the single stopper and realized that they were not screws but bolts. There is a brass plate about 1/8" thick under the fiberglass under the original single stopper. I drilled and tapped the remainder of the holes into the plate successfully. I don't know how much of the remainder of the coach roof has brass plate under the fiberglass but it makes sense that a highly loaded device like a sheet stopper wouldn't be anchored solely to the fiberglass deck. If you drill into the fiberglass and it suddenly gets hard to drill there is probably a plate there.

mortyd · Oct 15, 2013

my boat is at consilidated on city island for the winter - not that far from oyster bay. you are welcome to take a look at my working installation. it seems catalina 30's have gotten all kinds of rigging once they left the factory. one thing for sure, the factory traveler is below mediocre. if you mean a bullseye (?) through a doger window, i had mine change to vertical slits which have made a world of difference. remember, you can't undrill holes.

hvbaker · Oct 15, 2013

obsailor said:
mortyd - I'm at Stuyvesant YC across the road. Can I ask Wes or Chrysta if I can take a look at your boat?

See photo for example of slits in dodger. I also upgraded traveler after picture was taken. New traveler is sweet.

mortyd · Oct 16, 2013

be my guest, i'll call them first

mortyd · Oct 16, 2013

if you wanna meet sometime it's fine with me, i belong to the harlem.

drazlou · Oct 20, 2013

obsailor, I asked the same question about taking the traveller lines to the winches when I got my C30. Whenever I used the winch the line would override because of the angle and jam. Many people on this forum told me not to use the winch, it's not that hard to pull the traveller line by hand. Whiile I may argue about it not being hard to pull the line it's definitely better not to use the winch. My traveller has cam cleats on the aft end of the traveller which requires you to pull the line up to unlock the cam cleat whenever you use the traveller. Since the cleat is three feet in front of you and the line passes though a hole in the dodger window it's a real PITA to use. Stu Jackson posted a picture of his arrangement which relocates the cam cleats to the back of the coach roof where you can easily lock and unlock the line. I am going to move mine to his location and probably upgrade to the 6:1 traveller upgrade sold by Garhauer rather than fight with the standard 4:1. Maybe Stu can tell us if he found a brass plate under the fiberglass to anchor his cam cleats to although he has a C34 which may be different.

Stu Jackson · Oct 20, 2013

Lou, the back edge of the cabintop has no metal plate. Anyone can find out if there's a metal plate by using a light hammer and tapping around - you'll hear the difference in sound. Also, if something is connected to the cabintop and it doesn't have bolts and nuts underneath, that's most likely the location of a plate. WADR to jrowan, our experience has been different - bedding properly is another issue!

Another consideration, also discussed every time this issue arises: the bolts (or screws) for a sheetstopper and a cam cleat are in SHEAR, they aren't going to be pulled UP because the load is perpendicular to the bolts.

Drill the holes, epoxy them if you must, bed 'em with butyl and be done.

As Lou explained, when we upgraded our traveler to the 6:1, instead of needing the slit in the dodger front window, we only needed a grommet in the new dodger front window. The turning block replaced the cam cleat on the traveler cars.

If you can't envision this, let me know and I'll find links to pictures.

Good luck.

drazlou · Oct 24, 2013

obsailor, I emailed Garhauer and described what knid of traveler my boat has and the upgrade I was interested in and they emailed back "call (909)985-9993 and speak with Guido" so that is what I'm going to do. I know what it looks like from the Garhauer site and from a C34 next to me so that's where I'll start. Stu says they are good to work with and will make modifications to match what you need so I'll give it a try. This year I really tried to use the traveler and found it to be very effective but the standard traveler is a back breaker to use.

rgarrison@gmail.com · Oct 24, 2013

I just got my new cars from Guido and they are great!

C 30 traveller problem

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