Trailering O'day 23 and 25 questions
- Thread starter itsjojo
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lol - no problem... it's so common place around here to call it a "taco" and I've heard it refered to that online so many times I just figured...
I don't even think we call it a Tacoma at the plant either, the production telephone number (used to see how many of each we produce daily) even calls it "Taco"...
Ring... (todays date) 4xx Tundras and 4xx Tacos...
Yes, we build between 900 and 1,000 trucks a day... and we are behind sales numbers...
I don't even think we call it a Tacoma at the plant either, the production telephone number (used to see how many of each we produce daily) even calls it "Taco"...
Ring... (todays date) 4xx Tundras and 4xx Tacos...
Yes, we build between 900 and 1,000 trucks a day... and we are behind sales numbers...
Lol, yeah they are pretty good looking... useless to me as I have a 29' rv that I wouldn't quite trust to tow it with...
With Ford dropping the Ranger and Dodge dropping the Dakota and Chevy dropping the Colorado... and so on, we are just about the only ones left with a "small" pickup so fleet sales have gone up quite a bit... we build a LOT of "white trucks now, and white is our hardest color to get "right" even harder than black...
If you look at a pre 2006 Tundra and compare it to the current Tacoma... well let's just say the apple didn't fall far from the tree... lol
We had a 23' for 5 years and towed it twice a year. To the lake in the Spring and back home in the Fall. Towed it with a 2wd F150 with the 5.4 and tow package. Road speed was 60 mph max. Surge brakes on one axle. I knew it was back there. The original plan was to dry sail it. That changed immediately and we decided we didn't want the hassle of launching and retrieving so we wet slipped it. Raising the mast was straight forward, would I want to go through that every time we sailed, no way. Our ramps required the acquisition of a 12' extension. Distance to the lake was 75 miles. One other thing. We never trailered the boat with the 7.5 Honda outboard attached to the motor mount. Didn't think the transom was suitably reinforced to withstand the constant buffeting a road trip inflicts. So, each trip required mounting/dismounting the motor, a two person job. If you could dry sail or wet slip the boat I would go for the 25', you won't regret the extra size.
Steve
Steve
I own the 25 and pull with a Chevy Silverado short bed with a 6 liter. I two 380 miles through 2 mountain passes one with a 8% grade for 10 miles. I don't think I would want anything smaller going up that. Flat ground I could. Mine stays wet during summer and takes me 3 hours to set up by myself. I remove the shrouds and stays, which is not really necessary, completely
Maybe I am stronger then most but I can almost raise the mast myself and with just a little help I can. I have made a gin pole system and raising myself is easy with it. But it takes a half hour to set it up.
It takes an extension to retrieve the boat but I sometimes launch at high tide without it. I always overnight in the boat at anchor somewhere. I could not see having a smaller boat then this with more then 1 person. But I sail in cooler wetter weather then most and hanging wet gear to dry takes up lots of room. Greg
Maybe I am stronger then most but I can almost raise the mast myself and with just a little help I can. I have made a gin pole system and raising myself is easy with it. But it takes a half hour to set it up.
It takes an extension to retrieve the boat but I sometimes launch at high tide without it. I always overnight in the boat at anchor somewhere. I could not see having a smaller boat then this with more then 1 person. But I sail in cooler wetter weather then most and hanging wet gear to dry takes up lots of room. Greg
You can put weight distribution on a boat trailer you have to use a device called a pole tongue adapter. I have one for sale that I just removed from a trailer and boat I am selling.
https://www.google.com/#q=pole+tongue+adapter+kit
I converted a trailer to use with an O'Day 25 about 25 years ago, pulled it with a Ford Pickup with a 460 in it.
https://www.google.com/#q=pole+tongue+adapter+kit
I converted a trailer to use with an O'Day 25 about 25 years ago, pulled it with a Ford Pickup with a 460 in it.
Hmm never have seen one of those before... but then again, I have never looked for one either. A WDH really only works for high tounge weight trailers (like an RV, mine is 750#)... I wouldn't consider a 200# (or less) tounge weight sailboat trailer to even fit into that category.
If you are having trouble towing something like that, you have bigger issues going on - like the trailer you are towing is too much to handle for your tow vehicle...
Being honest with yourself and getting over the "I can tow anything I want because I'm just that good" has just as much to do with towing safely as any thing you can add to help an under-capable tow vehicle will ever do for you.
In fact it does work with lighter trailers especially if you are towing with a lighter truck. You will recover apx. One third of the payload capacity you lose to the tongue weight, remember that has to come off the payload capacity of your truck, look at the door placard to get the correct figure for your truck the manual is most likely wrong. The weight distribution hitch will transfer apx. 1/3 of the weight to the truck. To set up correctly you will need to bring the truck and trailer to a Cat Scale and get the weight on the axels. You should measure the wheel well height of the fort axel unloaded then with the WD system hooked up try to back to that height leveling the truck and transferring weight to the front axel.
I tow a 28 foot Airstream International with a 950 lb. tongue weight, using a Hensley arrow with a Ford F-150 Ecoboost. I have been towing Airstreams for over 20 years, I use my older WD hitch for my boat trailers.
http://www.airstream.com/travel-trailers/intl-serenity/specifications/
I built up a trailer for a O’Day apx. 25 years ago using one of their adds to scale the dimensions for the bunkers, but I just used brute force to tow that boat.
What dc states about safety is true try to stay 20% below what the manufacture suggests, learn all the terms and the correct way to compute your weights. Learn how to use a CAT scale or at a min. learn how to measure you tongue weight, I use a Sherline scale.
https://www.google.com/search?site=....14.0.0.GTXKXdy1IgA#q=Sherline+Scale&tbm=shop
No WDH REMOVES weight from what you are towing, that's impossible. Rebalancing it through the entire length of tow vehicle and trailer is more like it.
If your tow vehicle has a tow package with a limit of 7500#, you CANNOT simply add a WDH to be able to tow a 10,000# trailer. Don't fool yourself into thinking that you can.
And you CANNOT recover 1/3 of your payload capacity back by using one.
OVERLOADING is OVERLOADING the capacity of your vehicle PERIOD!!!
And the day will come when you get into an accident and your insurance company realizes you are OVERWEIGHT and you will be in the middle of a law suite without the help of your insurance company.
If your tow vehicle has a tow package with a limit of 7500#, you CANNOT simply add a WDH to be able to tow a 10,000# trailer. Don't fool yourself into thinking that you can.
And you CANNOT recover 1/3 of your payload capacity back by using one.
OVERLOADING is OVERLOADING the capacity of your vehicle PERIOD!!!
And the day will come when you get into an accident and your insurance company realizes you are OVERWEIGHT and you will be in the middle of a law suite without the help of your insurance company.
DC, I miss typed, you get back i/3 of your tongue weight added back to the truck payload, the removed weight will be placed on the trailer axels. We are not making capacity, as you stated it is distributed. I have a 950 # tongue weight which is deducted from the the truck payload when using a standard hitch, with the WD hitch I get back 316 lbs of the 950 lbs. back to the payload of the truck, the 316 went on the trailer axels. Take your rig to a CAT scale and weigh the axels with WD and without. Yes the axels and tires are rated for the load placed on them.
I clearly do not advocate anyone towing overweight or overspeed, in fact I clearly state that you should tow at no more than 80% capacity of what the manufacture of the tow vehicle rates on the data plate, not the manual. Anyone towing should learn to run all the numbers and what they mean. You should also become very familiar with tires and what build dates, manufacture, codes load and speed rating mean.
On the AirStream Forums we discussed every accident involving an Airstream we are aware of in detail, with as many facts as we can collect including type of hitch, tires, brake controller, weather, you get the picture. Safety is a very important issue.
In fact the day will never come that I am in a wreck and my insurance company realizes that I am overweight because I my rig is not overweight. By the way that statement seems to be one of the goto statements used to try to scare people, can you sight a case where this has happened?
DC you are the type of RV owner who I wish every owner on the highway was like knowledgable and safety aware.
Well, you need to be careful of what you type on open forums... someone somewhere will read "A WDH makes you able to haul more weight..." and then even more miss-information about what they truly do becomes "gospel" to some poor unsuspecting soul who truly has no idea what they are doing towing a trailer...
I don't know how many times I've been driving down the interstate at 75 and being passed by a 40' 5th wheel camper easily doing 85...
When towing not only do you take your life, your families lives and your friends lives in your hands - but you take mine in your hands as well.
Tow safely or don't do it at all.
I don't know how many times I've been driving down the interstate at 75 and being passed by a 40' 5th wheel camper easily doing 85...
When towing not only do you take your life, your families lives and your friends lives in your hands - but you take mine in your hands as well.
Tow safely or don't do it at all.
Really, you need to be careful about what you type on open forums driving down the interstate at 75, some poor unsuspecting soul who truly believes it is ok to speed, pulling a trailer faster than the manufacture rates the towing speed, or the the tire manufacture rates the max speed rating for the tires. I have now changed my mind about your knowledge of safety and towing I have no desire to be on the road with you as you are truly dangerous. You are putting those who share the road with you in danger.Enough said.
Umm, wasn't towing anything - never said that I was... and the speed limits on the interstates here in Texas ARE 75... I said I wss being passed by someone towing and speeding...
I can say that I was going 75 simply because that was the speed limit where I was... west Texas on IH- 10 is supposed to be even higher, don't know for sure, haven't been that way in years...
I can say that I was going 75 simply because that was the speed limit where I was... west Texas on IH- 10 is supposed to be even higher, don't know for sure, haven't been that way in years...
JoJo:
This is an older post, but i thought I would mention that in trailering of heavy loads I no longer look to the speedometer for equipment integrity, but my tachometer. With O/D off, from a dead stop I give just a bit of gas to get the needle up the gauge an 1/8inch then I let up a little on the gas so the needle doesn't move, then I let the transmission torque up to that engine rpm. I sort of baby step the transmission into the load.
The difference between where the rpm of the engine would like to ride when coasting versus where the transmission is while catching up, is an indicator of all the torque stresses your drive train is experiencing at that second.
This I need to eliminate as much as possible while driving. When the transmission and engine are finally in sync, then you can either coast, or add a bit more rpm to repeat the process, but never flooring it.
On uneven terrain I resist the temptation to give more gas on a hill just to keep up the speed. I will just let the speed drop and just hold the gas steady. Giving it more speed to get up the other side is fine. Sometimes if I'm doing 55mph, on a hill it may die down to 40 and I let it catch up on the downhill. People following me usually know what's going on and they are patient.
I have a Ranger 3litre auto with trailer package and payload package 2. I use my small tandem trailer i designed for it to haul a yard and 3/4 crushed stone or rock powder. At the quarry, the incline to get out of it is a 25degree ramp I take a run for it starting from the other end of the quarry. I usually drop it in 2 first. It makes it 3/4up the grade before the engine buckles down and goes to work. I've been hauling loads like this on occasion since 2006 without problems. Truck takes it in stride.
This is an older post, but i thought I would mention that in trailering of heavy loads I no longer look to the speedometer for equipment integrity, but my tachometer. With O/D off, from a dead stop I give just a bit of gas to get the needle up the gauge an 1/8inch then I let up a little on the gas so the needle doesn't move, then I let the transmission torque up to that engine rpm. I sort of baby step the transmission into the load.
The difference between where the rpm of the engine would like to ride when coasting versus where the transmission is while catching up, is an indicator of all the torque stresses your drive train is experiencing at that second.
This I need to eliminate as much as possible while driving. When the transmission and engine are finally in sync, then you can either coast, or add a bit more rpm to repeat the process, but never flooring it.
On uneven terrain I resist the temptation to give more gas on a hill just to keep up the speed. I will just let the speed drop and just hold the gas steady. Giving it more speed to get up the other side is fine. Sometimes if I'm doing 55mph, on a hill it may die down to 40 and I let it catch up on the downhill. People following me usually know what's going on and they are patient.
I have a Ranger 3litre auto with trailer package and payload package 2. I use my small tandem trailer i designed for it to haul a yard and 3/4 crushed stone or rock powder. At the quarry, the incline to get out of it is a 25degree ramp I take a run for it starting from the other end of the quarry. I usually drop it in 2 first. It makes it 3/4up the grade before the engine buckles down and goes to work. I've been hauling loads like this on occasion since 2006 without problems. Truck takes it in stride.
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