Learning Lessons, and making upgrades

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Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
This weekends trip to Catalina was awesome in many many ways, but was also a bit stressful, and included a couple major lessons, thankfully none of them causing any harm. The first one was that we should have left on schedule. This always seems to happen with my friends, but this time being a couple hours late bit us in the ass, and we got there just a little too late to get a mooring. That left us with the choice of anchoring, or heading several miles up the coast to hopefully find a mooring there.

Since we wanted to get dinner in Avalon that night, and see the sights there the next day we wanted to stay as close as we could. We quickly discovered that our anchoring areas were going to be pretty limited by the amount of rode I had on board though. The water there is deep, and having not planned to anchor I didn't have enough line. Lesson 2, plan for deep water and bring more anchor line next time. We consulted the charts and found a spot over off pebbly beach which was shallow and sandy and close enough for the dinghy to get us back.

Here came what was to be the biggest lesson of the weekend. I was using the anchor that came with the boat, a 13lb danforth style that has served me very well in my usual anchorage down in Coronado. I'd never had an issue with it so I wasn't terribly worried. However the bottom in Coronado is soft and gooey and pretty much perfect for a good solid hold. There's also generally little to no current or wave action and mild winds. Our Catalina location was a little different. Not protected at all, with pretty significant wave action. After several attempts at setting the anchor I found the biggest drawback to this particular POS. Instead of having a solid shank with a hole in it, the shank is constructed from round bar, folded into a long U shape creating a long slot, with a ring in it which slides back and forth. Obviously this is to make the anchor easier to retrieve, but for me it just made for frustration as the anchor kept falling in a position which put the ring at the wrong end and caused us to drag it backwards instead of into the ground. After repeated attempts we got it securely set, got dinner, came back and went to bed. We didn't sleep real well with all the movement and nervousness about the anchor, but it held just fine.

The next morning we headed back to shore, got breakfast and enjoyed some of the local tourist activities. About midday harbor patrol called and let me know that some people had moved around and they now had a mooring for us. I did a little dance, walked up to their office and paid, then headed back to the dinghy dock to retrieve our vessel. As we were motoring out I noticed that all the boats that were anchored along the shore had switched directions since the night before (and since that morning) I didnt think much of it, cause we had circled the anchor all night, but the wind and waves are a lot stronger during the day. When we started getting close to my boat I suddenly realized that it had begun to drag anchor. Thankfully it hadn't gone very far, and wasn't in any danger (yet) but really that was just luck, and I had now lost all confidence in our equipment. Once we got on board and fired up the motor I pulled up the anchor and sure enough, when the boat reversed direction that stupid ring swapped ends and pulled the anchor out of the bottom instead of simply flipping it and resetting.

No more, I'm done. Time for something else. That night we had a mooring, but next time we're gonna be armed with much better ground tackle in case we have to do this again.
 
Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Being that I'm a metal fabricator by trade, it pains me to pay lots of money for a new anchor when I can look at them and see just how simple they are, and how cheap they are made. I'm not saying that they are overpriced, because honestly they aren't terrible when you figure in the cost of R&D and all the overhead, etc, but when you can do it yourself for a fraction of the cost......

After doing a lot of reading on here and watching a ton of youtube anchor tests I decided on a Rocna style scoop design and started sketching in Solidworks. I sure do love that program. Best part is that you can play with materials and dimensions and get actual weights and surface area, as well as lots of other info. After figuring out a design I liked I exported the files over to my CNC cutting table and made some sparks.
 

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Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Once I had all the parts cut and cleaned up I stuck the scoop section in my press brake to fold it into shape. Unfortunately my brake isn't as long as the bend I had to make so I had to flip the part a couple times and do it in stages, but it got the job done. The "roll bar" isn't quite perfect as I just bent it by hand around one of the round dies for my tubing bender, but it's good enough to do the job. I also added a little doubler plate to the pointy end both to reinforce it as well as add some weight to the digging end. Now I just have to drop it off to have it galvanized.

The last pic shows both the old and new anchors. The new one is a lot more beefy, and weighs a full 5lbs more. While I was at it I also welded a tab with a single hole in it to the old anchor to cure the sliding ring issue, and I'll keep that anchor around as a backup or for stern use.
 

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Oct 2, 2008
3,811
Pearson/ 530 Strafford, NH
StinkBug nice work, are you going to modify your bow roller to carry the new anchor?

All U Get
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Get an extra length of chain and a lot more rope. I carry 300 feet on the Chesapeake Bay. Most of the time I anchor in less than 20 feet.
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
I'm with Ross
What was the depth and how much rode did you have out?
No anchor is going to work on a short rode.
I carry 300 ft and anchor in <15 most of the time.
 
Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Currently I dont have any bow roller, just a bracket that the old anchor hangs in on the pulpit. I'd like to add a roller at some point, but haven't figured out how I wanna do it yet, so for now I'm hoping this one will ride in the old bracket as well.

Definitely gonna be adding a lot more rope to the inventory. The only other place I ever anchor is only 10-15' deep so it was never an issue before. We simply failed to plan for anchoring on this trip. Next time will not be the same.
 
Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Where we ended up anchoring was roughly 15' deep, the anchor was visible from the surface until just before hitting bottom. Most of the other spots around there are much deeper, which is why we ended up so far from the harbor. I had probably 90-100' of line out, so scope was not the issue. The fact that the boat reversed direction and the anchor design made it easy to pull out was the problem.
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,296
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
<snip>

Since we wanted to get dinner in Avalon that night, and see the sights there the next day we wanted to stay as close as we could. We quickly discovered that our anchoring areas were going to be pretty limited by the amount of rode I had on board though. The water there is deep, and having not planned to anchor I didn't have enough line. Lesson 2, plan for deep water and bring more anchor line next time. We consulted the charts and found a spot over off pebbly beach which was shallow and sandy and close enough for the dinghy to get us back.

<snip>
While it is certainly true that your anchor tackle left lots to be desired, it's also the case that there is *no* good place to anchor in and around Avalon. None. The holding bottom is terrible, the depths are very great (as you discovered), and there is very little shelter. People do anchor in the area of Pebbly Beach (as you saw) and up by Frog Rock (to the NW), but none of these locations is any good. Dragging is not uncommon and an uncomfortable stay is almost guaranteed.

There *are* some good places to anchor around Catalina but Avalon is not among them. While your home brew anchor project looks fascinating and well worth your while, I'd scratch Avalon off your list of good places to anchor.

Now Cat Harbor (the best anchorage on the Island), Whites, Little Fisherman's, Little Harbor, and a few of the lesser-known coves could be a wonderful place for you to test out your new creation!

Cheers,
Alan
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,296
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
I'm with Ross
What was the depth and how much rode did you have out?
No anchor is going to work on a short rode.
I carry 300 ft and anchor in <15 most of the time.
Someone who wants to anchor around Avalon should have at least 500' of rode. The minimum depths there for anchoring are going to be around 90'. Even at that depth the quality of the bottom is not that good, but if one tries to move in to shallower depths the bottom is very foul. Plus, the depths drop off quite quickly as you move only a very little bit off the shore, so it becomes difficult to find a compromise depth.

The best spots that *would* be good for anchoring are already filled up with moorings.

While I have anchored successfully in that area, out of necessity, I avoid doing so at all costs.
 
Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Well like I said, we never intended to anchor off Avalon. We were just not left with much choice since all the moorings were full and the sun was setting. I'll be testing the new anchor in my usual anchorage after it comes back from galvanizing. Hopefully I wont ever have to use it in that area again, but at least next time we'll be more prepared.
 
Nov 22, 2011
1,296
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
Well like I said, we never intended to anchor off Avalon. We were just not left with much choice since all the moorings were full and the sun was setting. I'll be testing the new anchor in my usual anchorage after it comes back from galvanizing.
Yup. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

I guess all I'm saying is that even with a good anchor you should avoid the place. But if you are stuck with having to anchor there then obviously a good anchor is better than a bad one! :) So it sounds like we're exactly on the same page as far as Avalon anchoring goes!

Good luck on this project. It really looks terrific.
 
Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Oh and for those who might be wondering, that's about $20 worth of steel, and about an hours worth of actual labor not including the time figuring it all out in solidworks. The galvanizing is gonna be the expensive part. Even with that it'll still be about 1/3 the cost of a comparable sized rocna.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
A small can of aluminum paint will coat that thing about 20 times for $3.
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
Great job StinkBug!
I had one of those sliding ring things on my 'toon and hated it. And that was in shallow water and a sand bottom!
I picked up a Lewmar claw anchor and love it but didn't have a convenient place to stow it so made a "holder" out of a section of pool heater tubing.
 

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Sep 25, 2008
961
Macgregor & Island Packet VENTURE 25 & IP-38 NORTH EAST, MD
Very nice job on your anchor! I like your shop tools too. When figuring scope, don't forget to add the distance from your bow to the water . On my Mac 25 that's an extra 3 feet, so you were really in 18 feet of water with 90-100 feet rode , which is only about 5:1 scope. No way I would ever get off my boat with that ratio ( that's just a temporary stop kinda ratio). I use at least 10:1 to sleep well. You didn't mention chain? You do have chain as part of your setup? I like 25' of chain ( one boat length) as the min. Here's a picture of the anchor roller setup on my Mac 25, just to give ya some ideas. If your anchor design works well, you could make them out of stainless steel too, and probably sell them.


image-750226132.jpg
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
As you found out, the anchors with the looped shanks are total a POS. If I was forced to use one ( and had one ONCE) I'd wire the shackle to the top of the loop so it could not slide.

Second, I refuse to lie to a single Danforth style anchor it the current or wind is apt to reverse. They are great anchors, and hold VERY well, but are just plain not reliable in a reset situation. I've seen them come up too many times with mud, or a damned beer can, holding the flukes up so it could NOT reset. If anchoring with Danforths, I ALWAYS set two, one up, one down- Bahama Moor if you will.

Your new anchor looks good- test it at home first-Grin


Not from anything on this thread, but- The other thing that is sold that really fries me is the vinyl coated chain, where you cannot see if it's good, bad, or shot. And it won't stow!! Should be against the law to sell the crap.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
We anchored out a couple of weeks ago and in the morning when it was time to ship the anchor the rode was laying slack around the boat. The wind and the current were opposite each other and very light so we were just parked over the anchor. When I pulled up to a short scope the boat didn't move twenty feet.
 
Dec 26, 2012
359
MacGregor 25 San Diego
Very nice job on your anchor! I like your shop tools too. When figuring scope, don't forget to add the distance from your bow to the water . On my Mac 25 that's an extra 3 feet, so you were really in 18 feet of water...

That's a good point I didn't really think about. To be honest though, I didn't actually measure out the line. I generally look more at the angle it's at when I'm setting it more than anything. I just run it out til it's nice and flat and then power into it with the motor to get the thing to dig in...as well as test the hold. In this case I had far more out than any of the boats around me, but obviously they all had something a lot better on the bottom end. Who knows, they may have been tied to old engine blocks! :laugh:

I'm tempted to pick up a couple cans of that cold galvanize stuff, but I dont wanna waste my time if it's not gonna last long. I built the new anchor out of metal I had on hand, so really it hasn't cost me a penny so far. The minimum charge for the Galvanizing place is $100 and they do a full on hot dip that I know will never wear out. Seems worth it to me.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I marked my rode with whippings at boat length intervals(30 feet) and always set out more than necessary.
 
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