My new jackhammer
- Thread starter odaydokay
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The cutlass bearing might have went bad because the shaft wasn't aligned properly so when you do pull the boat be ready to check it all.....new cutlass bearing, check strut, check shaft, check all motor mounts, check shaft couplings and alignment and let the yard replace the bearing, I had mine done for about 150 dollar's and they dealt with the frozen set screws and never removed the shaft
I will indeed have all those things checked. Good advice. I do know two things: This is the original cutlass bearing (1985) and that I never paid a damn bit of attention to it; big mistake. Each spring I should have checked it for lateral play right? Chances are it was "floppy" back in May when I launched and I missed it. As for alignment, I never had that done, though there was never much vibration or slap. For sure this should be checked and adjusted by the yard (best in water upon Spring relaunch, right?) after they put in the new bearing. All in all, a harsh lesson learned. As for the other poster's comment, no the prop is not hitting anything, only the shaft is rattling in the now very sloppy shaft log.
Woodster is on it
On my 310 there is enough room to decouple the shaft and slide it back. Even so with the cutless bearing out you should be able to rotate it and inspect well enough.
If the boat is going to the hill, pull it all out, realign/true the shaft, and spin the wheel as well. A proper prop shop, (liked that didn't ya?), will computer balance it along with the shaft, WITH a new coupling on it. You may salvage the old coupling, but I end up more often than not cutting them off.
So yes. Or no, whatever. Anytime the coupling has been split, always check your alignment. The motor will settle on the mounts, maybe just settle in on one side or the other, or something. I have never once put a shaft in that lined up right. This is TOO easy to check. A feeler gauge between the coupler is about it. I shoot for under three thousandths of an inch, but I think the criteria is five. Close enough. And yes, a dial indicator with a heavy base can tell you if it has problems, but it's really unnecessary.
If the shaft is not bent all to hell, or the wheel has a shark bite out of it, the shop can generally re-true it all. The last one of these I did a couple of months ago I think was somewhere around two hundred bucks. New Buck cutlass bearing and shaft coupling, set screws, and shear pin realign the shaft and prop. That's cheap insurance.
And I have a FIRM policy of what needs to transpire on the hill. Underwater issues are dealt with closely. With extreme prejudice. It's underwater. Around here, a haul, block, and launch on a thirty footer is about 300 bucks. I want it fixed right the first time. And yes, I have re-hauled them twice, and one time three times. On my dime. It has to be right.
People can deal with an alternator or winch while afloat. Maybe even underway. I don't need to get into the hand wringing about when underwater issues occur. You KNOW when. And it's never in crystal clear water in the islands, sun out beautiful, wife happy, no traffic, every tool you need on board, etc...
So yes. Or no, whatever. Anytime the coupling has been split, always check your alignment. The motor will settle on the mounts, maybe just settle in on one side or the other, or something. I have never once put a shaft in that lined up right. This is TOO easy to check. A feeler gauge between the coupler is about it. I shoot for under three thousandths of an inch, but I think the criteria is five. Close enough. And yes, a dial indicator with a heavy base can tell you if it has problems, but it's really unnecessary.
If the shaft is not bent all to hell, or the wheel has a shark bite out of it, the shop can generally re-true it all. The last one of these I did a couple of months ago I think was somewhere around two hundred bucks. New Buck cutlass bearing and shaft coupling, set screws, and shear pin realign the shaft and prop. That's cheap insurance.
And I have a FIRM policy of what needs to transpire on the hill. Underwater issues are dealt with closely. With extreme prejudice. It's underwater. Around here, a haul, block, and launch on a thirty footer is about 300 bucks. I want it fixed right the first time. And yes, I have re-hauled them twice, and one time three times. On my dime. It has to be right.
People can deal with an alternator or winch while afloat. Maybe even underway. I don't need to get into the hand wringing about when underwater issues occur. You KNOW when. And it's never in crystal clear water in the islands, sun out beautiful, wife happy, no traffic, every tool you need on board, etc...
Good question. Sometimes too much slang for us non-mechanics. I guess he means to balance and true the prop, but perhaps he can clarify. In general we all have to decide how far to go into a boat with replacing stuff. I mean I could do a new set of motor mounts on a 28 year old boat, but I only use the thing maybe a dozen times a year.
Thanks Peter, but please read all previous posts in this thread. I went below already, so please read result of my report on that, ok?
I have now had a chance to reflect on all this and a bell went off. For the past 4-5 years when I have installed my zincs before launch, I found that the shaft was stuck and it took small whack on the prop to get the shaft to spin freely. I wonder if this was a sign that the rubber lining in the cutlass bearing was starting to go. Anyone heard of this sort of thing?
Aw sorry man. I did mean the prop. To be honest, I'm not sure why in the "industry" it is called a wheel, but I get around these old time serious type prop guys, they call it a wheel. And I just kinda got in the habit of it I guess.
I really have no idea if that was a relevant thing, having to knock the prop around to get it to rotate. I've walked up on many hill boats that have sat for a good while dry, and it can be a concerted effort to spin it initially. A lot of things can get tight, cutlass, packing, transmission output seal, even some of the inner works of the transmission itself. So that would be a hard guess. But with a cutlass bearing, if it has any play at ALL in it, and it's within my means at that time, the bearing gets replaced. That's not too bad of a job on the dirt pile, but in the water would be an effort. 40 bucks..
I really have no idea if that was a relevant thing, having to knock the prop around to get it to rotate. I've walked up on many hill boats that have sat for a good while dry, and it can be a concerted effort to spin it initially. A lot of things can get tight, cutlass, packing, transmission output seal, even some of the inner works of the transmission itself. So that would be a hard guess. But with a cutlass bearing, if it has any play at ALL in it, and it's within my means at that time, the bearing gets replaced. That's not too bad of a job on the dirt pile, but in the water would be an effort. 40 bucks..
Yes siree! My failure to check for that play was my downfall as it seems unlikely it went from no play in May to blowing out in August. Checking for that play is a mistake I will not make again!
Now the boat has been hauled. There is no liner left in the cutlass bearing at all, i.e. no rubber part, just the casing. The yard states they have no special tool, but have done a lot of these and usually can get the shaft off without hitting the rudder (just enough offset), maybe use a saw blade to remove remains of it. I am skeptical they will be able to pass the shaft by the rudder, but we will see.
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