topping lift
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On my 1990 H-33.5 the Topping Lift runs up the mast to a sheave at the top then outside and down to the aft end of the boom. There is a cleat on the outside of the mast about 3 -4 Ft. above the deck to cleat off the Topping Lift after either loosing it when sail is up and working, or tightening it just before dropping the main..
The topping lift on mine is a vinyl coated cable that runs from the top of the mast, aft side, down to the end of the boom. it is attached to a short line and two blocks ( one on the end of the boom) and is held with a cam cleat one the side of the boom at the end. I suspect it is the original set up
Mr. Bryer, Could you please send a picture of your setup. I have the vinyl covered cable running from the masthead to a line that is tied to the aft boom end. I think the other end of the cable is caught inside the mast and used to run out the bottom of the mast through a block, but I'm not sure. Is your topping lift fixed at the boom end or running through a sheave to the forward boom end?
Splax, if you have the vinyl covered cable, then it is fixed at the masthead and tied to the aft boom end. It does not run through the mast. believe it is the original set-up. Mine terminates at the bottom with a sheave where runs a short piece a line. One end of the line runs through the eye in the cleat on the aft end starboard side of the boom and terminates with a figure-eight knot. The line is then run through the topping lift sheave and comes back to be secured to the cleat. This allows adjustment of boom heigth. After hoisting the main, release tension on the line and re-secure line on cleat loose enough to allow proper main adjustment. Pics attached might help.
There are 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom and 3 at the front end.
On my boat, portside sheaves are used for 2nd reef, starboard side for 1st reef and middle one for main sail outhaul. Reef lines and outhaul are led to cockpit through blocks, organizers, ending through line clutches just before the cabin top winches.
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Same (more or less) here.. Wire rope is fixed at the masthead, bottom has an eye/thimble. I have a small line secured to the pin in the aft boom top, then up through the eye then back down where it is tied off at the boom end pin again. allows for adjustability, but not easy underway.
Ok here is a pic from when my mast was pulled. You can see how the topping lift is attached. I use two blocks on the boom end (one with a jam cleat) to control height.
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And here is how the bottom end looks on mine:
The short length of dark line attaches at the top block at provides a 3:1 lift on the boom. The other end is tucked into the end of the boom so it isn't dangling over our heads.
The short length of dark line attaches at the top block at provides a 3:1 lift on the boom. The other end is tucked into the end of the boom so it isn't dangling over our heads.
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Claude-I spliced an eye into the thimble that also holds the block. If I was doing it again I would use a bit smaller dia line- always a struggle getting it thru the eye of the cleat
This thread prompts me to wonder about the whole matter of vangs and topping lifts. I have seen many posts suggesting the first order of business when one gets a rigid vang is to rid oneself of the dreaded topping lift.
On the other hand, I have also read many posts suggesting that an adjustable topping lift provides yet another tool in the sail trim arsenal in addition to the vang. Since I have an old Spinlock Powervang, I kept my soft vang.
Now I am rethinking what to do about my topping lift. The PO had it rigged from boom end to mast top doing nothing more than keeping the boom off my toes. If I elect to keep it, I would need to replace the cable anyway, so I am wondering about whether to keep it, and if I do, the value of making adjustable.
If that turns out to be the consensus of opinion, does anyone know of a reasonably detailed diagram of how it is ideally run and a list of the blocks, etc necessary to accomplish that?
On the other hand, I have also read many posts suggesting that an adjustable topping lift provides yet another tool in the sail trim arsenal in addition to the vang. Since I have an old Spinlock Powervang, I kept my soft vang.
Now I am rethinking what to do about my topping lift. The PO had it rigged from boom end to mast top doing nothing more than keeping the boom off my toes. If I elect to keep it, I would need to replace the cable anyway, so I am wondering about whether to keep it, and if I do, the value of making adjustable.
If that turns out to be the consensus of opinion, does anyone know of a reasonably detailed diagram of how it is ideally run and a list of the blocks, etc necessary to accomplish that?
What I'm saying is that a lot of better sailors than I got rid of their topping lifts when they got a hard vang.
What I'm asking is whether it is better keep my topping lift but make it adjustable. I think the Spinlock Powervang I have is not really a "full service" hard vang because it is not piston equipped.
What I'm asking is whether it is better keep my topping lift but make it adjustable. I think the Spinlock Powervang I have is not really a "full service" hard vang because it is not piston equipped.
You'll need a line led down from the masthead with a small block attached at the highest point you'd want to lift your boom, and a block with a becket mounted to the boom's endcap. Tie a line to the becket, lead it up through the block on the topping line, and then through the remaining sheave below.
You may or may not need a cheek block on the boom to fairlead the line forward to either a cleat on the forward end of the boom, or, with a block at the gooseneck and associated deck blocks/organizers, lead the line back to a cabintop cleat.
As someone else stated, "your boat, your choice".
Couple of years ago, Joe here in SD wrote:
"You can do it anyway you see fit. The boat will sail either way. All the topping lift does is hold the boom up when the sail can't, either from lack of wind or because want to drop the mainsail. The reason you want an adjustment feature is so it won't hang up on the battens and interfere with the sail crossing over when you change direction."
I've a lot of respect for his opinion. If that's all it does, I'm not sure why one would go through all the trouble and expense of setting it up as JSG from Tucson suggests.
Maybe Don will weigh if there is some other sail trim that responds to an adjustable topping lift.
"You can do it anyway you see fit. The boat will sail either way. All the topping lift does is hold the boom up when the sail can't, either from lack of wind or because want to drop the mainsail. The reason you want an adjustment feature is so it won't hang up on the battens and interfere with the sail crossing over when you change direction."
I've a lot of respect for his opinion. If that's all it does, I'm not sure why one would go through all the trouble and expense of setting it up as JSG from Tucson suggests.
Maybe Don will weigh if there is some other sail trim that responds to an adjustable topping lift.
Dang. That "experimental" IPA I had last night made for a slightly overzealous post. Please disregard.
Shaping/trimming a mainsail with a topping lift? Mmmmmmm, no.
But on my little boat, besides keeping the boom off the lifelines when reefing, the adjustable lift can also allow more headroom in the cockpit when anchored.
Your larger Hunter most likely doesn't suffer from such a low boom as mine.
And Joe in SD is correct.
Shaping/trimming a mainsail with a topping lift? Mmmmmmm, no.
But on my little boat, besides keeping the boom off the lifelines when reefing, the adjustable lift can also allow more headroom in the cockpit when anchored.
Your larger Hunter most likely doesn't suffer from such a low boom as mine.
And Joe in SD is correct.
It's great to be able to raise the boom at anchor/dock with the topping lift, even on bigger boats (especially if you're 6' 2"). I'd keep it even if I switched to a rigid vang (it's a sailboat, what's one more line?!).
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