Stop Cable Lubing

[Bob S]

Just wanted to give anyone who might have a hard time pulling their stop engine cable. Last season I stripped the threads out of the T handle on my stop cable on my 18 yo boat. I repaired it by installing a Helicoil. I figured I needed to replace the cable and asked the great crew of the C30 Yahoo group. One member suggested using a cable luber sold at motorcycle shops. Less than $20.00 bucks and 10 minutes. Now I can stop the engine with my pinkie! Worth a try before you make the effort and expense of replacing the cable.

 

[Rich Stidger]

That's a good tip, Bob. I have used that item for my motorcycles for 40 years and it works great. I used to use LPS 1 for the lube agent.

I have yet to try it on my throttle and shift cables on the boat, but maybe I'll get to it before next season.

 

[centerline]

if you use grease as the lube, you are only postponing the problem.... it will dry out in a few months or a year and you will be left with a gum sludge that will be as bad as no lube at all.... using transmission oil will keep it lubed and help push out any contaminants in the cable housing that is causing drag... then the cable should last nearly a lifetime...

 

[Rich Stidger]

if you use grease as the lube, you are only postponing the problem....

I agree. The motorcycle industry probably has a favorite cable lube that will not sludge-up. The LPS#1 that I've used is a light bodied oil. I remember that it can also be used on electrical connectors to protect them. There is also a LPS#3 that is a chain lube. I used to use that formula on my motorcycle chain because it would stick very well and not fly off. But the lighter LPS#1n I think is best of the two for cables.