Jack lines
- Thread starter rtmccue
- Start date
- Status
Your picture (beautyful boat!) showes no dodger. It would make sense to be able to rig a jack line along the center-line of the boat (or as near as possible. My boat has a dodger, which makes that more challanging. I've opted for two jacklines, one down each side of the deck.
I have a 410. I've located the jack lines on each side tying a bowline on each aft side and running them up each deck to the bow cleat/holes. I use climbing webbing from rock climbing stores like REI. It will degrade with sunlight UV however it is so much cheaper than marine line and lays flat. When planning this I had someone in sales try to upgrade my line from holding only 2000 lb.breaking point to a suggested 4000 breaking point. I pointed out how I was going to use the line, falling overboard with a tether.... I pointed out that I would be on the end of that line and I might be dead if 2000 pounds of torque broke the line anyways.
I use the 1" tubular webbing from Mountain Equipment CO-OP, rated at 4000 lbs, nylon (so minimal UV concern) and only $1.30 per metre so very inexpensive compared to jacklines in a marine store.
link is here,
http://www.mec.ca/product/5020-829/web-source-124mm-tubular-webbing/?f=10&q=webbing
Bob
link is here,
http://www.mec.ca/product/5020-829/web-source-124mm-tubular-webbing/?f=10&q=webbing
Bob
I should have asked has anyone installed D hooks in the cockpit? To attach the hook too. I have 1 inch webbing that I run down the sides . I'm looking to see what I have to do th add a backing plate to the bolts ?
D - Rings, Jacklines
Rich, This info is probably too late ,but may be helpful. A jackline should run from the bow of the boat ( either down the middle, or one down each side ) to as far aft as necessary for one to attach to it without leaving the cockpit. You can use the base of the bow cleat or a d-padeye secured with a bolt & backing plate ( NOT screws). Contrary to a couple of suggestions, it should be FLAT. A tubular jackline will roll under foot resulting in a loss of balance and possible fall overboard, or a twisted ankle. Interestingly, the preferred color is BLACK because it can be easily seen, day or night, against a light-colored deck, without need for illumination. The REI purchase suggestion is good. To prolong its lifespan, the jackline could be removed and stowed ( they are easily replaced ) when not offshore, sailing at night, nor in foul weather. ( see West-Marine, 2013 Catalogue, pg.172 for more info ).Regarding RETENTION RINGS, there should be one just outside companionway to attach to BEFORE emerging on deck. Also, one on each side of cockpit & at the helm. ( for crew & "Skipper" ). The front wall of the cockpit seats are a good accessible location. They should be BOLTED & backed by a RETENTION PLATE. Tethers should be of the DOUBLE LEASH design ( one 3 ft. & one 6 ft. "arm" ). Therefore, you can clip onto the new retention device BEFORE releasing from the current location. Hope this is helpful. All the Best to You, Wanda & Connor. Wishing You, Fair Winds & Following Seas & May Your Jib Always Draw. LT John Murphy
Safety Officer
Kent Narrows Sail & Power Squadron
PS: Rich-Wanda-er is now Saoirse ("soar-sha"; Gaelic for "Freedom" ) & flag blue w/ a red & white waterline stripe...a great boat!!
Rich, This info is probably too late ,but may be helpful. A jackline should run from the bow of the boat ( either down the middle, or one down each side ) to as far aft as necessary for one to attach to it without leaving the cockpit. You can use the base of the bow cleat or a d-padeye secured with a bolt & backing plate ( NOT screws). Contrary to a couple of suggestions, it should be FLAT. A tubular jackline will roll under foot resulting in a loss of balance and possible fall overboard, or a twisted ankle. Interestingly, the preferred color is BLACK because it can be easily seen, day or night, against a light-colored deck, without need for illumination. The REI purchase suggestion is good. To prolong its lifespan, the jackline could be removed and stowed ( they are easily replaced ) when not offshore, sailing at night, nor in foul weather. ( see West-Marine, 2013 Catalogue, pg.172 for more info ).Regarding RETENTION RINGS, there should be one just outside companionway to attach to BEFORE emerging on deck. Also, one on each side of cockpit & at the helm. ( for crew & "Skipper" ). The front wall of the cockpit seats are a good accessible location. They should be BOLTED & backed by a RETENTION PLATE. Tethers should be of the DOUBLE LEASH design ( one 3 ft. & one 6 ft. "arm" ). Therefore, you can clip onto the new retention device BEFORE releasing from the current location. Hope this is helpful. All the Best to You, Wanda & Connor. Wishing You, Fair Winds & Following Seas & May Your Jib Always Draw. LT John Murphy
Safety Officer
Kent Narrows Sail & Power Squadron
PS: Rich-Wanda-er is now Saoirse ("soar-sha"; Gaelic for "Freedom" ) & flag blue w/ a red & white waterline stripe...a great boat!!
These often go on sale and with the 25% off coupon it came in at $.75 a foot for 27000 lbs. Assuming I stay away from the carbs, it oughta hold me. Right length for my boat, flat enough to slip under the dodger, though I would have preferred a 2". Probably too short for anything longer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-x-30-ft-heavy-duty-recovery-strap-67230.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-x-30-ft-heavy-duty-recovery-strap-67230.html
- Status