Fram Fuel filters for Yanmar 3jh2e
- Thread starter rfrye1
- Start date
- Status
Definitely the shower sump.
Guess what's the most common contaminant in super clean ultra hi-tech 'clean rooms' where people wear tyvek suits, goggles, self contained breathing apparatus' and take 'air showers' in 'air locks' before entering such rooms? .... yup, pubic hair !!!!!!
Guess what's the most common contaminant in super clean ultra hi-tech 'clean rooms' where people wear tyvek suits, goggles, self contained breathing apparatus' and take 'air showers' in 'air locks' before entering such rooms? .... yup, pubic hair !!!!!!
If you look up the prices for Yanmar filters fuel/oil, I really do not see the cost savings of using any non-OEM filter.
I just saw the following for a 3JH2E engine Oil Filter $6.41, Fuel Filter $9.79. How much can we save off of a $6.41 filter to make any difference?
I just saw the following for a 3JH2E engine Oil Filter $6.41, Fuel Filter $9.79. How much can we save off of a $6.41 filter to make any difference?
For me, it is not a savings on the filter question, it is a decision to not drive the 40 mile round trip necessary to get one at the Yanmar distributor.. After examining a new Yanmar one, I am pretty sure that they are made by Wix.. who also makes the same filter for NAPA (1568) there is a NAPA guy three blocks from the boat.. Sometimes I use Fram because I can buy during a grocery trip to Wally Woild. UUHHHHH a note is that the amount of filter media.. square inches of filtering surface, is almost twice as much in the Tough Guard line as in the Extra Guard line.. The lesser media one states "up to 5000 mile intervals" while the other states "up to 10000 mile intervals". Either one will meet a 100 hour or yearly change requirement as suggested by Yanmar. I find Yanmar parts for the most part are reasonable.. I baulked at the cost of new engine mounts, but if they are good for lots of years, I am OK with that..
You know that just because a company mfg something for someone else does NOT indicate that they are created equal.
I usually purchase 2-3 spares when I get mine. You can also have them shipped (saves you 80 miles on the vehicle too).
Personally I like to use what the mfg recommends.
I usually purchase 2-3 spares when I get mine. You can also have them shipped (saves you 80 miles on the vehicle too).
Personally I like to use what the mfg recommends.
Ya know, I know it sounds argumentative, but there is a difference in quality. I don't work for any filter company, never have. But with a filter cutter, I've had the opportunity to cut into MANY filters in the field, as an indication of what the motor is doing. Now I'm not in a lab, nor am I a scientist, but us "old timers" have a trick or two to determine a filters/motors health by a simple bit of surgery. And despite some "abstract" standard on a filter that means very little to me, a quick glance into an opened filter would tell a heroin addict what is a decent filter, and what is cheap junk.
The cardboard issue is just name calling, as most filters of this variety are paper. We have a large vessel here on the hill that uses rolls of paper towels shoved down in the cans for this, and seems to work very well. I guess it beats 100 dollar Cat filters.
So, ya'll do what you want. I really couldn't care less if people filter their fuel and oil through a Brita. I work on inboard diesels, so really, please do.
But to put one of those cheap pieces of junk on MY engine? I'd paddle my boat past a Fram delivery truck, to get to a dirty looking Wix..
The cardboard issue is just name calling, as most filters of this variety are paper. We have a large vessel here on the hill that uses rolls of paper towels shoved down in the cans for this, and seems to work very well. I guess it beats 100 dollar Cat filters.
So, ya'll do what you want. I really couldn't care less if people filter their fuel and oil through a Brita. I work on inboard diesels, so really, please do.
But to put one of those cheap pieces of junk on MY engine? I'd paddle my boat past a Fram delivery truck, to get to a dirty looking Wix..
The quality of the filter is not nearly as important
as good maintenance. Baldwin used to make a premium filter that used a wound cotton media rather than paper as was in their standard filters. They were far better than anything that I have ever seen. They were discontinued because those who were diligent enough to change their oil at good intervals were getting 30 years or 300,000 out of their cars without them and the demand was just not there. The simple fact is that changing oil is dirty and not so glamorous but very effective preventative measure. It's amazing how far people will go to avoid this chore.
as good maintenance. Baldwin used to make a premium filter that used a wound cotton media rather than paper as was in their standard filters. They were far better than anything that I have ever seen. They were discontinued because those who were diligent enough to change their oil at good intervals were getting 30 years or 300,000 out of their cars without them and the demand was just not there. The simple fact is that changing oil is dirty and not so glamorous but very effective preventative measure. It's amazing how far people will go to avoid this chore.
Is a picture still worth a 1000 words?
http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/opinions.html#avoid
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...&pq=fram+oil+filter+failure&sc=1-23&sp=-1&sk=
I started cutting oil filters apart over 35 years ago. 20 years ago I started doing it on aircraft oil filters for the same reasons. Too many people have seen the insides of all these filters, and far to many have seen failures of frams to discount the warnings.
http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/opinions.html#avoid
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...&pq=fram+oil+filter+failure&sc=1-23&sp=-1&sk=
I started cutting oil filters apart over 35 years ago. 20 years ago I started doing it on aircraft oil filters for the same reasons. Too many people have seen the insides of all these filters, and far to many have seen failures of frams to discount the warnings.
Excellent and informative post rich. I loved the post not only for the info regarding filters, but the overall context of shams and flim flam. I am often surprised at how easily I am deceived by the marketers. But age and experience has made me wise enough to incorporate new facts and data and change my opinion when needed. No longer do I stubbornly "stick to my guns" when the fallacy of my beliefs are revealed.
Keith
Keith
I dont believe anyone here has said anything about hopw well Frams filter. What I said is they are JUNK. They collapse inside, ive seen it with my own eyes, and have been seeing it and known about it for over 30 years. They have been responsible for destroying engines when they sent chunks of filter material into the bearings. Ive seen that with my own eyes too. I have sat in court to give testimony on it, in an attempt to help a customer recover costs.
Back in the early 80's Honda issued a service bulletin against using inferior oil filters, when Frams suddenly started bursting. It was found that Hondas could momentarily exceed 400 psi oil pressure on start up cold, and that Fram had recently made their filter housings out of metal so thin, you could dent them with slight hand pressure. They were cheap enough inside, they had to save money with paper thin steel too. They did firm them up, they arent as squishy as they used to be, but the insides are still junk.
I suppose their fuel filters work okay, they dont have to suffer a lot of pressure, but I wont support a company like that. Use them if you want, blow off all the pictures on the internet and tell yourself all the oil filters are built with the same quality if you want. And tell people like me and others that our eyes have been lying to us for 20 or 30 years.
Back in the early 80's Honda issued a service bulletin against using inferior oil filters, when Frams suddenly started bursting. It was found that Hondas could momentarily exceed 400 psi oil pressure on start up cold, and that Fram had recently made their filter housings out of metal so thin, you could dent them with slight hand pressure. They were cheap enough inside, they had to save money with paper thin steel too. They did firm them up, they arent as squishy as they used to be, but the insides are still junk.
I suppose their fuel filters work okay, they dont have to suffer a lot of pressure, but I wont support a company like that. Use them if you want, blow off all the pictures on the internet and tell yourself all the oil filters are built with the same quality if you want. And tell people like me and others that our eyes have been lying to us for 20 or 30 years.
Your eyes been lying to you as bad as mine have the last 30 years? Maybe someone's been slipping us heroin all these years and our eyes have been seeing things, lol.
I guess in the long run it really doesn't matter. As a boat mechanic, I love Fram. All it boils down to is, do you trust your five thousand dollar motor to a three dollar walmart filter?
Which makes me repeat, again, why in the world anyone would let a twenty dollar oil change stand in the way of their very expensive diesel engine is beyond me. I'll change the oil in a motor just because I'm bored...
And.......no, I don't fool with Fram fuel filters either. Never have. After looking into arguably one of the cheapest oil filters made, why on Earth would anyone think that the company decided, "Well, we've marketed the awfullest piece of junk on the American public as we possibly could, (the orange color will get them every time), so lets make a very high quality fuel filter to offset the poor performance of the rest of our product line".
And, "They'll REALLY love the little grippy thing we put on the ends of the filters, because your average handy-dandy homeowner probably doesn't own a filter wrench".
Real diesel mechanics use a 460 Channellock..
Which makes me repeat, again, why in the world anyone would let a twenty dollar oil change stand in the way of their very expensive diesel engine is beyond me. I'll change the oil in a motor just because I'm bored...
And.......no, I don't fool with Fram fuel filters either. Never have. After looking into arguably one of the cheapest oil filters made, why on Earth would anyone think that the company decided, "Well, we've marketed the awfullest piece of junk on the American public as we possibly could, (the orange color will get them every time), so lets make a very high quality fuel filter to offset the poor performance of the rest of our product line".
And, "They'll REALLY love the little grippy thing we put on the ends of the filters, because your average handy-dandy homeowner probably doesn't own a filter wrench".
Real diesel mechanics use a 460 Channellock..
Chris, because they're lazy. That's why there will
always be gimmicks like Slick 50. Nothing beats changing your oil but few will accept taking on the responsibility for doing it.
always be gimmicks like Slick 50. Nothing beats changing your oil but few will accept taking on the responsibility for doing it.
Unless you have some 'test numbers and data' from actual and detailed filter performance evaluations ... that could very well be the case.
For the case of an engine lube oil filter, this is a 'recirculation' filter .... filtering the same oil over and over and over and over again until it reaches the desired stability of particle retention using a filter that has exceedingly 'open flow', (perhaps) relatively low efficiency of capture on the first 'pass' through'. What doesnt get captured in the 'first pass', will have an exponentially increased chance to get captured in each successive pass. The mechanism of retention in recirculation filtration is .... mathematics (the exponential laws of decay) and your eyes may indeed be lying to you as this 'stuff' is simply NOT 'intuitive'.
Missing from this very interesting thread is that, in my experience, any number of OEM parts can also fail prematurely. I will never, for example, use an OEM Yanmar belt (probably made for Yamar by Mitsubishi) on my 2GM20F as I've had them fail in as much as one hour of use. I use Gates. Impellers are another example. So "OEM" is not much of a guarantee of quality, IMHO.
Belts are not made for Yanmar by Mitsubishi The company is Mitsuboshi see (http://www.mitsuboshi.co.jp/english/) and the belts are labeled with that name. If someone broke a Mitsuboshi belt in one hour then something else went wrong. Misuboshi belts are as good any anything Gates makes.
Many Yanmar model flexible vane (impeller) pumps were/are made by Johnson for Yanmar. Accordingly Johnson impellers are a dead match. The origin is Swedish so prices are relatively high - just like Volvo prices.
Charles
Many Yanmar model flexible vane (impeller) pumps were/are made by Johnson for Yanmar. Accordingly Johnson impellers are a dead match. The origin is Swedish so prices are relatively high - just like Volvo prices.
Charles
Charles:
The belt in question, made by whomever for Yanmar as and "OEM" product, failed with little more than an hour of service on it. The reason was poor quality control in manufacture. No burrs or nicks on the engine pulleys as I replaced the OEM belt immediately with a Gates belt that has proven to be a far superior product. See image below.
The belt in question, made by whomever for Yanmar as and "OEM" product, failed with little more than an hour of service on it. The reason was poor quality control in manufacture. No burrs or nicks on the engine pulleys as I replaced the OEM belt immediately with a Gates belt that has proven to be a far superior product. See image below.
Attachments
- Status