I have a 1981 Catalina 30 and interested in replacing the standard fixed ports with opening ports. Unfortunately, I have not found any manufacturers that make an opening port in the lengths required for my boat. Does anyone make an opening port? If not, is there a preferred replacement for a C-30? Thanks for your suggestions..... Dave
C-30 Opening Ports - Do they exist?
- Thread starter DHooper
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You many need to consider having the mfg. put an opending port in a fixed fixture.
Contact Bomon in Canada. They do this.
Contact Bomon in Canada. They do this.
Try Mike at Cruising Concepts . I just installed a set of his windows and two front ones were opening . Love them
Tom
Tom
I removed the center fixed port on each side and replaced them with 2 Vetus opening ports on each side. The Vetus ports probably are not the best choice but I purchaced 6 new ones for $200 on craigs list. I'm going to replace the 2 forward ports this weekend, giving me a total of 6 opening ports that are needed on the sothern Gulf Coast of Florida.
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Gentleman,
Thank you all for your responses. Unfortunately I am only now getting back to my window restoration / replacement project and had a few additional questions. None of the large OEM’s make anything large enough to replace the main cabin windows. Select Plastics advised that the original C-30 frames aren’t repairable since they can’t be brought to ABYC standards. Boman can make new windows to order for more than $300 a piece that is hard to justify right now. Have you any experience with the Catalina Direct repair kit? I like the original frames and once powder coated look brand new making the repair kit attractive. Tom, can you tell me what you did to repair your main windows? Jim, can you tell me the specific Vetus model you have that fit the main cabin? I haven’t been successful sourcing them. I am leaning to simply resealing the existing original glass and frames absent any reasonable alternative and appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks again….Dave!
Thank you all for your responses. Unfortunately I am only now getting back to my window restoration / replacement project and had a few additional questions. None of the large OEM’s make anything large enough to replace the main cabin windows. Select Plastics advised that the original C-30 frames aren’t repairable since they can’t be brought to ABYC standards. Boman can make new windows to order for more than $300 a piece that is hard to justify right now. Have you any experience with the Catalina Direct repair kit? I like the original frames and once powder coated look brand new making the repair kit attractive. Tom, can you tell me what you did to repair your main windows? Jim, can you tell me the specific Vetus model you have that fit the main cabin? I haven’t been successful sourcing them. I am leaning to simply resealing the existing original glass and frames absent any reasonable alternative and appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks again….Dave!
I did it with the Catalina Direct kit and a couple of additional wrinkles. With careful planning, one or two dry fits before assembly and decent shop technique this can be a good project with the original aluminum frames that seem to be universally hated.
The additional wrinkles were new tinted plexiglass panes in place of the old glass ones, powder coating on the aluminum frames and a spare set of windows found on ebay to fill the cabin holes during the project. It took me two weeks start to finish, one of those weeks in the middle for the powder coating. Total expense was about $350 (CD kit + new plexi + powder coat). The spare windows were traded after the project for a spinnaker sock so I did not include their cost.
Here are the pictures
The additional wrinkles were new tinted plexiglass panes in place of the old glass ones, powder coating on the aluminum frames and a spare set of windows found on ebay to fill the cabin holes during the project. It took me two weeks start to finish, one of those weeks in the middle for the powder coating. Total expense was about $350 (CD kit + new plexi + powder coat). The spare windows were traded after the project for a spinnaker sock so I did not include their cost.
Here are the pictures
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Replace d mine with plexiglass windows and inside frames from Cruising Concepts love them nice tint and gave the boat a more modern look.
Can attest to the fact they are super as I was caught in a storm with 40 knot winds and 12 foot seas and not one leak even though they were glued in place
Can attest to the fact they are super as I was caught in a storm with 40 knot winds and 12 foot seas and not one leak even though they were glued in place
Thanks Guys. Nice job Neil. I was planning the exact same solution since I don't mind the original frames. Did you cut your own plexiglass? I suppose Cruising Concepts makes precut plexiglass and will inquiire. How was your exterior seal with the CD kit? Any problems?
No problems with the CD kit whatsoever. The windows are now better than new and not a single leak anywhere.
Yes, I made my own plexi panes. It's very easy if you have the right tools available. I adhered the original panes to rough cut plexi blanks with double-back tape and pattern routed them with a router in a table and a flush trim bit. You can see it in the picture background. All six panes took less than an hour. Note that the pane size is unique to the frame and are not interchangeable from boat to boat or port to starboard on the same boat. I noticed this comparing my temporary set to my original set. Whoever makes the plexi panes will need the original glass to get them right. Keep everything marked or you risk getting a jumble.
If you are unfamiliar or unskilled with a router it's best to have it done by your plastics source. A router is a violent tool in the wrong hands.
The plexi panes are prone to scratching and crazing over time but an advantage is they flex and conform to the cabinside curvature. With the old glass windows you're trying to seal a flat window to a curved surface. One other little trick is to orient the vinyl seal butt joints at the top of the window.
As I disassembled the frames I marked them for location and orientation with an electric engraving pen inside the flange, made things much easier on reassembly. Keep the frame joint plates in separate baggies too. Everything has to go back where it came from. All this is the workshop technique I mentioned before. Keep the work area clean and organized and it should go well.
With apologies to those who like them, I am not a fan of the oversize Cruising Concepts retrofit windows both in appearance and the whopping price they get for them. As I said in the earlier post, I have $350 invested in my fully re-paned, resealed and powdercoated window set. Compare at $1200 for the retro's. They'll scratch and craze over time too.
Powdercoating can be had in a variety of colors. I chose white because my previously replaced Lewmar opening ports forward were already white. If you prefer the original aluminum look you can get them powdercoated gray.
Yes, I made my own plexi panes. It's very easy if you have the right tools available. I adhered the original panes to rough cut plexi blanks with double-back tape and pattern routed them with a router in a table and a flush trim bit. You can see it in the picture background. All six panes took less than an hour. Note that the pane size is unique to the frame and are not interchangeable from boat to boat or port to starboard on the same boat. I noticed this comparing my temporary set to my original set. Whoever makes the plexi panes will need the original glass to get them right. Keep everything marked or you risk getting a jumble.
If you are unfamiliar or unskilled with a router it's best to have it done by your plastics source. A router is a violent tool in the wrong hands.
The plexi panes are prone to scratching and crazing over time but an advantage is they flex and conform to the cabinside curvature. With the old glass windows you're trying to seal a flat window to a curved surface. One other little trick is to orient the vinyl seal butt joints at the top of the window.
As I disassembled the frames I marked them for location and orientation with an electric engraving pen inside the flange, made things much easier on reassembly. Keep the frame joint plates in separate baggies too. Everything has to go back where it came from. All this is the workshop technique I mentioned before. Keep the work area clean and organized and it should go well.
With apologies to those who like them, I am not a fan of the oversize Cruising Concepts retrofit windows both in appearance and the whopping price they get for them. As I said in the earlier post, I have $350 invested in my fully re-paned, resealed and powdercoated window set. Compare at $1200 for the retro's. They'll scratch and craze over time too.
Powdercoating can be had in a variety of colors. I chose white because my previously replaced Lewmar opening ports forward were already white. If you prefer the original aluminum look you can get them powdercoated gray.
Thanks again Neil. I have a router and a great table and consider myself relatively proficient at least on wood. Never worked with synthetic materials before but you have motivated me to try. I prefer to reuse the original frames since I also don't care for the new look of the Cruising Concept windows. I need to source a sheet of glass and will exercise my router as soon as I find the material. Thanks again for your help. Stay tuned.
Good luck to you. One last tip: DO NOT pry on the frames from the outside under any circumstances. You may slide a flat blade in there to cut the caulk adhesion but any prying at all will deform the flange significantly. Once the flat blade cutting is done the window must be pushed out from the inside.
Patience is a virtue.
BTW, plastic is easier to rout than wood. Pane stock is 3/16" thick.
Patience is a virtue.
BTW, plastic is easier to rout than wood. Pane stock is 3/16" thick.
Thank you Bob. Ice cold brewski waiting for you aboard Kalina if you ever find yourself in the area.
I agree Neil. You always do top notch work. You have the nicest C 30 around. Cheers.
I was happy enough just replacing my Lewmar forward ports last year. Nice to get some air up there. I would splurge to replace my overhead hatches before I bothered with the fixed ports. I guess it depends on how long I hold onto our C 30 before the next project boat catches my eye.
I was happy enough just replacing my Lewmar forward ports last year. Nice to get some air up there. I would splurge to replace my overhead hatches before I bothered with the fixed ports. I guess it depends on how long I hold onto our C 30 before the next project boat catches my eye.
I suggest you and everyone else with the original aluminum ports keep an eye on them for leaks and associated aluminum rot. They can corrode to a point where there isn't enough good metal left to restore them. Powder coating does not fare well on filler.
My policy is to stay ahead of the problems rather than chasing them.
My policy is to stay ahead of the problems rather than chasing them.
Large Extrusion
Neil,
Frames are in the shop being sand blasted and powder coated. Pretty excited about seeing the finished product. Just curious about the extrusions that came in the CD Window Reseal Kit. Does the kit include the larger interior frame extrusion that matches the original with a large center channel or does the kit include something different? There are many low cost alternatives with the exact specifications for the window extrusion and curious about the frame.
Thanks!
Dave
Neil,
Frames are in the shop being sand blasted and powder coated. Pretty excited about seeing the finished product. Just curious about the extrusions that came in the CD Window Reseal Kit. Does the kit include the larger interior frame extrusion that matches the original with a large center channel or does the kit include something different? There are many low cost alternatives with the exact specifications for the window extrusion and curious about the frame.
Thanks!
Dave
Good luck to you with the project. Sounds like you're well on your way. Are you replacing the glass panes with Plexiglass or Lexan? What color powdercoat?
The vinyl extrusion you're asking about I refer to (perhaps inaccurately) as mullion. It's included in the CD kit and is a perfect fit. I don't recall if I mentioned it but I placed the butt joints in both the mullion and glazing vinyl at the top of the window , staggered from each other.
The vinyl extrusion you're asking about I refer to (perhaps inaccurately) as mullion. It's included in the CD kit and is a perfect fit. I don't recall if I mentioned it but I placed the butt joints in both the mullion and glazing vinyl at the top of the window , staggered from each other.
Dave,
Are you powdercoating the clamping rings? If yes, consider adding flat washers under the screws so there's no gouging of the finish during installation.
My clamping rings were not powdercoated. Instead I left them bare, carefully straightened them from previous installation deformation and acid washed them. I used Alumiprep 33 available at Aircraft Spruce but any welding supplier will carry a similar aluminum preparation product.
Are you powdercoating the clamping rings? If yes, consider adding flat washers under the screws so there's no gouging of the finish during installation.
My clamping rings were not powdercoated. Instead I left them bare, carefully straightened them from previous installation deformation and acid washed them. I used Alumiprep 33 available at Aircraft Spruce but any welding supplier will carry a similar aluminum preparation product.
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