Raymarine X-5 AP clutch lever - my luck

[Skipper]

I chose the only boat in the world that an X-5 AP doesn't fit.

I love that the boat was built with a 4-post pedastal. Looks good, very robust. However, the bridge that supports the aft posts (rails), which houses the throttle and transmission cables, interferes with the X-5 clutch handle. Found this out during installation today.

I can't mount the motor on the top left, which is the other option, as it colides with the bridge on the other side. I have to mount it on the lower right. It ALMOST fits. If I back the wheel nut off a little and pull the wheel back, I can use it. :lame:

What I really need is a different clutch handle. Has to be only a 3-4 mm thick to fit. Metal would work better due to the thickness.

Anyone else have this issue? Know where to get a custom lever? Any other ideas?

 

[Lost Parent]

Any pictures

 

[Allan12210]

What kind of a swing do you get? Does it only hit at a fat part? How about relieving it with a belt sander? If the wheel slides on a straight shaft you could stack some fender washers behind it to move the wheel forward. A side view picture could help. I made a 1/4" thick handle for my old 4000 autopilot out of aluminum that worked fine. Good luck.

 

[Skipper]

What kind of a swing do you get? Does it only hit at a fat part? How about relieving it with a belt sander? If the wheel slides on a straight shaft you could stack some fender washers behind it to move the wheel forward. A side view picture could help. I made a 1/4" thick handle for my old 4000 autopilot out of aluminum that worked fine. Good luck.

It swings halfway. Almost enough to disengage the clutch, but not enough. I tried to adjust the clutch, but no joy. In any case, it's not locked in disengage. The lever incounters the locking bit on the AP drive housing, and then the lever is stopped cold between that and the pedastal aft bridge.

I could relieve the lever. Am afraid that would weaken it, and then it would fatigue and eventually break.

I thought about the washers. But that would remove several threads-worth of grip from the wheel locking nut. Im concerned about altering the original design of a crucial aparatus. My best bet is a thin lever made of seaworthy metal. How did you make yours?

I've included the best picture I have of the helm, which is not that great a picture. I had to zoom in and crop the original picture. The helm is a bit obscured by the stern pulpit. Also, this is a picture prior to the AP being installed. If you look at the throttle lever, the housing where it lives is the culprit, on the aft side. That's where the AP clutch lever jams between the pedestal and the AP drive ring.

Thank you

 

[Gudenuph]

It swings halfway. Almost enough to disengage the clutch, but not enough. I tried to adjust the clutch, but no joy. In any case, it's not locked in disengage. The lever incounters the locking bit on the AP drive housing, and then the lever is stopped cold between that and the pedastal aft bridge.

I could relieve the lever. Am afraid that would weaken it, and then it would fatigue and eventually break.

I thought about the washers. But that would remove several threads-worth of grip from the wheel locking nut. Im concerned about altering the original design of a crucial aparatus. My best bet is a thin lever made of seaworthy metal. How did you make yours?

I've included the best picture I have of the helm, which is not that great a picture. I had to zoom in and crop the original picture. The helm is a bit obscured by the stern pulpit. Also, this is a picture prior to the AP being installed. If you look at the throttle lever, the housing where it lives is the culprit, on the aft side. That's where the AP clutch lever jams between the pedestal and the AP drive ring.

Thank you

Could you bend or rotate the position of the lever to clear?
Geohan

 

[Pat T]

I installed my AP last year and barely had the clearance between my clutch handle and engine electrical panel. At the time I was also looking at a folding Lewmar wheel and found out that the wheel was dished a bit. This would have move the whole AP ring aft and gotten me more clearance. That was with a 40 inch wheel. Not sure about your size wheel. It would obviously mean more $$ but may be an option.

 

[Allan12210]

Skipper,

That is a tight fit. I made my spare handle out of 1/4" x 2" aluminum bar that I found. There are a number of internet metal suppliers you can get small pieces from. First I traced my old handle with a Sharpie marker and marked where the hole was for the autopilot shaft. I clamped it in a vise (the aluminum was a bit longer tan I needed. I cut the rough shape with a jig saw and hacksaw. Then I smoothed all the edges with a file and finally various grades of sandpaper on my electric sander. After drilling the hole for the shaft, I drilled another hole through the edge that passed into the shaft hole. I did this on two sides. Those holes from the sides were threaded for a #6 x 32 screw. That way, two setscrews were used to hold it in place. As a recall, the shaft on the autopilot had a flat on it so I made sure that one of the set screw locations fell on that orientation. I gave that away with my old autopilot last year when I installed my new X-5 so I don't have a picture. Too bad, it was my finest work.

Actually, as I look at it, there is a lot of material on the nut side of that hub to the spokes. If you could machine off a 1/4 - 3/8" of that surface then offset on the other side with the fender washers, you would not give up any thread engagement but the wheel would still move aft. There is plenty of keyway still for it to be really strong..its probably over engineered at that point. The key length on your prop shaft to the engine coupling isn't that long.

I'm just full of ideas. Maybe something will work.

Allan

 

[alexco38]

It swings halfway. Almost enough to disengage the clutch, but not enough. I tried to adjust the clutch, but no joy. In any case, it's not locked in disengage. The lever incounters the locking bit on the AP drive housing, and then the lever is stopped cold between that and the pedastal aft bridge.

I could relieve the lever. Am afraid that would weaken it, and then it would fatigue and eventually break.

I thought about the washers. But that would remove several threads-worth of grip from the wheel locking nut. Im concerned about altering the original design of a crucial aparatus. My best bet is a thin lever made of seaworthy metal. How did you make yours?

I've included the best picture I have of the helm, which is not that great a picture. I had to zoom in and crop the original picture. The helm is a bit obscured by the stern pulpit. Also, this is a picture prior to the AP being installed. If you look at the throttle lever, the housing where it lives is the culprit, on the aft side. That's where the AP clutch lever jams between the pedestal and the AP drive ring.

Thank you

Is the wheel hub standard taper? I have a 36" wheel thats offset. They were designed for AP.

Just msg me if interested.

 

[Skipper]

I can't bend it, it's cheap Chinese plastic, like most of the X-5, which is a different conversation. I can't rotate it, due to matching flat spots on the lever and drive ring.

Thank you for all of the suggestions. Altering the wheel looks sensible, and it would actually probably prove ergonomically better, with the wheel closer to me when I'm perched on the lazarette.

However, I don't want to monkey with the wheel. I'm no machinist, and if I or anyone I hire foul it, that's about a $600 item. In any case, virtually every project I do on this boat is engineered in a way that does not require any alteration to the original boat. It bugs me to no end to see previously stunning boats have their expensive, stout and gorgeous wood cut apart like drywall so that a stereo could be installed. Or holes unceremoniously pounded or drilled for a magazine rack or some hanging trinket. Stove pipes rammed up through the deck. Speaker holes cut in the bulkheads or previously mentioned woodwork. It's a fault of mine regarding respect for the designer, builder, and craftsmen who put their love into her creation, especially a boat like a late model Bristol. I am putting the AP, GPS and RAM mic at the helm, have hung the stereo from a underdash box next to the already slung VHF aft of the nav station, and have installed other updated plumbing, electrical, engine, sailing, fixture, and electronic gear in a suitable fashion without altering the boat in any way. This can require much analysis and in some cases more $, and at times doesn't make a lot of sense from a practical view, but it's how I do things. Oops, I prattled on

I think I have to make a lever. If I screw it up, I'll make another one till I get it right. I really like Allan's remedy using the set screws, so that I don't have to sculpt a round inset with a flat spot.

 

[Albanach]

Assuming that you have a SPX 5AP, would it help if you drilled another slot in the back of the drive ring for the pedestal bracket, which would allow the clutch lever to be positioned higher? I did this on mine 3 years ago, plus shortened the lever a bit. Raymarine did not have a problem with me doing it at the time, provided I did not weaken the ring. I don’t think that one extra hole would affect the latter’s strength. It is still working well.

 

[Skipper]

Assuming that you have a SPX 5AP, would it help if you drilled another slot in the back of the drive ring for the pedestal bracket, which would allow the clutch lever to be positioned higher? I did this on mine 3 years ago, plus shortened the lever a bit. Raymarine did not have a problem with me doing it at the time, provided I did not weaken the ring. I don’t think that one extra hole would affect the latter’s strength. It is still working well.

Hmm...another slot. I didn't think of that. Could be brilliant.
I can't move the drive motor any higher, as it is touching the right vertical rail as is. It fits perfectly; except for the clutch lever issue. However, if I carve a new slot in the drive ring, and relocate the motor on the opposite side of the rail to the right, it might work. As long as it doesn't interfere with the throttle. I can handle 2 levers next to each other, as long as they are free. Or, if we are playing with the slot location, I could move the motor anywhere that it would fit and be suitable. I'll check this weekend.

 

[Skipper]

Solved!

2 things: put one spacer behind the wheel, and ground down the locking bit a little. The extra clearance allowed the lever to move properly. Also, only gave up a couple of threads on the shaft.

Thanks for the ideas.