I wouldn't count on it not marring the boat since most of it has texture and also has wood fiber mixed in with the plastic.
How to lift boat off of trailer
- Thread starter bwingler
- Start date
- Status
I was thinking along the same lines as Roger, possibly eliminating the carpet altogether. I guess I could try it and add the carpet later, as long as I have made sure that the staples will hold. Thanks for the tip on that. I did not realise that the stuff was so fragile. I am using a mini rope ladder, just a loop of rope with one rung. The rung is a 2x2 of plastic decking material, the rope is run through holes on either side and passes under the step. I hang it off the bow to make boarding easier when beached bow in. I guess the ropr under the rung provides enough support to keep it together - so far!
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
to bwingler... how to lift one side of the boat
Use this 2- scissor jack contraption, but instead of the pads, mount a 2 x 6 across the tops of the jacks and secure them to the jack head ensuring that they have some pivot ability to match the slope of the hull. These jacks independently lift a car so the boat should be no problem. Mount the contraption between the trailer frame and the hull, just inboard of the current plank that you plan on replacing. Hope this picture posts because without it, this message will make little sense. This is where the pic is worth a 1K words.
Use this 2- scissor jack contraption, but instead of the pads, mount a 2 x 6 across the tops of the jacks and secure them to the jack head ensuring that they have some pivot ability to match the slope of the hull. These jacks independently lift a car so the boat should be no problem. Mount the contraption between the trailer frame and the hull, just inboard of the current plank that you plan on replacing. Hope this picture posts because without it, this message will make little sense. This is where the pic is worth a 1K words.
Attachments
Roger, this is a great idea. I can't see from the picture how the metal bar attaches the two jacks together. Did you have to weld them? I also can't picture how a 2x4 mounted "across the top of the jacks" could be mounted so that they can pivot to mach the shape of the hull. What is wrong with the pads shown in the picture? This method looks much easier than anything else I've seen posted. I assume that you have used this system successfully?
- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
Yes, I have used this system quite successfully, but my boat is only 1300#. Two pads lifting a heavier boat may require larger pads so that you don't push in the hull.
My biggest use of my contraption is to lift the boat 2" off one of the side bunks each spring to add bottom paint, allow to dry, then lower it and move to the other side for a repeat performance. I can only take credit for advancing the idea from a fellow yacht club member and prior boat owner that had welded pads on the cross arms of his trailer to mound bottle jacks. Each bottle jack had a pad attached to it. I simply took the idea to the next generation. Its light, handy, and transferable around the marina for others to use as well. I got the scissor jacks from an auto wrecker, and the bar is not welded but simply through bolted. I would recommend bigger pads than my 6 x 6 carpet covered 3/4" plywood.
My biggest use of my contraption is to lift the boat 2" off one of the side bunks each spring to add bottom paint, allow to dry, then lower it and move to the other side for a repeat performance. I can only take credit for advancing the idea from a fellow yacht club member and prior boat owner that had welded pads on the cross arms of his trailer to mound bottle jacks. Each bottle jack had a pad attached to it. I simply took the idea to the next generation. Its light, handy, and transferable around the marina for others to use as well. I got the scissor jacks from an auto wrecker, and the bar is not welded but simply through bolted. I would recommend bigger pads than my 6 x 6 carpet covered 3/4" plywood.
The bunks are curved and the new 2x4 is straight. How do you determine where to drill the 2nd hole? How do you compress it to the shape of the hull? The hull has to be about 18" higher than the wood in order to drill the countersink for the bolt.
Help, please.
Jerry
Help, please.
Jerry
Jerry,
We just changed a ski trailer to a Catalina 22. We attached one end of the bunk and then used a jack carefully to lift the other end up to the bottom of the boat, then attaching the support to the frame. Then we attached the middle supports. We used a floor type jack and also a bottle jack. Be carefull it doesn't kick out. On my smaller 15' Mutineer the boards are straight until I put the boat on and then they are bowed just right. Hope this helps.
bunks
After looking at your bunks, I'm wondering.....isn't that an aweful lot of weight to be supported by just 3" of material on each end? Have you seen any compression or other hull damage caused by the lack of surface contact area?
After looking at your bunks, I'm wondering.....isn't that an aweful lot of weight to be supported by just 3" of material on each end? Have you seen any compression or other hull damage caused by the lack of surface contact area?
Boat stands in rear?
>>ron<<
S/V Serenity
Gulfport, FL
Why could one just use standard boat stands in the rear and your set-up in the bow to remove the trailer?
>>ron<<
S/V Serenity
Gulfport, FL
Hi everyone-
I thought I should share a couple of pics and a description of my rig to get the boat on and off of the trailer.
I built a couple of cradles. The first one built is designed to fit the shape of the hull at the transom, right under the transom. I want to avoid oil-canning, so I figure the best place the support can be positioned is immediately under the vertical wall of the transom. This cradle is sized to slide under the boat with the trailer tongue at pretty much a normal position, or down slightly.
I have the luxury of an I-beam overhead, but suspect a sturdy tree branch could be similarly used. A 2-ton chain hoist is used with a wide towing strap to lift the boat clear enough to get the trailer out, then another cradle is installed just forward of the keel. I had intended on my first lift to use some shims to spread the load of the strap, but testing proved it was unnecessary for the short time that the boat was in the sling. Note, the strap is positioned behind the lifelind stanchions, as a preventative measure to keep the strap from slipping out from under the boat forward.
Anyway, the cradles are designed in such a manner that all the pieces are in compression. The foreward cradle has three 4/4 posts in the vertical axis. I felt it best not to impose any bending load into the cradles, (I am picky that way) so there is one central post flanked by two additional posts. A 2x8 acts as a spreader, and is notched in a v. 2 12x6 pads are rest at the top of of the central post out to the outer posts, making contact with the hull. At the rear, there are two 4x4 posts, and these are similarly topeed with pads to support the boat. the load is totally vertical for all but the bracing pieces..
Here are two pictures from last night; finally to the point in my spring re-furb to slap a fresh gallon of bottom paint on...
This system has proved quite easy, and is simple enough that a single person can set it up, make the lift and postion the cradles. It is quick too!
I thought I should share a couple of pics and a description of my rig to get the boat on and off of the trailer.
I built a couple of cradles. The first one built is designed to fit the shape of the hull at the transom, right under the transom. I want to avoid oil-canning, so I figure the best place the support can be positioned is immediately under the vertical wall of the transom. This cradle is sized to slide under the boat with the trailer tongue at pretty much a normal position, or down slightly.
I have the luxury of an I-beam overhead, but suspect a sturdy tree branch could be similarly used. A 2-ton chain hoist is used with a wide towing strap to lift the boat clear enough to get the trailer out, then another cradle is installed just forward of the keel. I had intended on my first lift to use some shims to spread the load of the strap, but testing proved it was unnecessary for the short time that the boat was in the sling. Note, the strap is positioned behind the lifelind stanchions, as a preventative measure to keep the strap from slipping out from under the boat forward.
Anyway, the cradles are designed in such a manner that all the pieces are in compression. The foreward cradle has three 4/4 posts in the vertical axis. I felt it best not to impose any bending load into the cradles, (I am picky that way) so there is one central post flanked by two additional posts. A 2x8 acts as a spreader, and is notched in a v. 2 12x6 pads are rest at the top of of the central post out to the outer posts, making contact with the hull. At the rear, there are two 4x4 posts, and these are similarly topeed with pads to support the boat. the load is totally vertical for all but the bracing pieces..
Here are two pictures from last night; finally to the point in my spring re-furb to slap a fresh gallon of bottom paint on...
This system has proved quite easy, and is simple enough that a single person can set it up, make the lift and postion the cradles. It is quick too!
Attachments
Hey Philwsailz
What is that you are applying to the bottom of the boat? BTW - your setup is neat and I love your workshop. I am getting ready to remove my boat from the trailer for the second time (had to put it back on for our 50th wedding anniversary party - needed the space at the side of the house too!). I am going to do the trailer in POR15 and finish the bottom paint in a few spots.
What is that you are applying to the bottom of the boat? BTW - your setup is neat and I love your workshop. I am getting ready to remove my boat from the trailer for the second time (had to put it back on for our 50th wedding anniversary party - needed the space at the side of the house too!). I am going to do the trailer in POR15 and finish the bottom paint in a few spots.
Bob, that is West Marine's PCA multi-season ablative anti-fouling. I chose the black color, as it just looks the best on this boat in my opinion.
I woud not be painting this year, except when I hauled the boat in March to bring her home for annual maintenance, I had a brian-slip and went to the hi-pressure car wash and hosed the bottom down way too good... DESPITE the fact that I had very little growth and a one-year-old bottom only.
I managed to accidentally blast away about two years of protection as a result of my failure to remember that the PCA is good for several years AND several launchings, and does not lose effeciveness when dried out...
Oh well, paint is cheap, right??? not.....
Thanks for the kind comments regarding my work-space. I am very fortunate to have the room I do.
I woud not be painting this year, except when I hauled the boat in March to bring her home for annual maintenance, I had a brian-slip and went to the hi-pressure car wash and hosed the bottom down way too good... DESPITE the fact that I had very little growth and a one-year-old bottom only.
I managed to accidentally blast away about two years of protection as a result of my failure to remember that the PCA is good for several years AND several launchings, and does not lose effeciveness when dried out...
Oh well, paint is cheap, right??? not.....
Thanks for the kind comments regarding my work-space. I am very fortunate to have the room I do.
I replaced the bunks on my Mac 26X a few weeks ago, by launching the boat and tying it up in an unoccupied slip in my marina. (The kindly folks at the marina office chose the slip for me - an absolute must, for they're the ones who know which slips won't be occupied for a while!)
With the boat in the water, you can measure, cut, install carpet, knock out the old boards and bolt in the new ones, at your own convenience.
I used regular bunk carpet from We$$t Marine, on pressure-treated 2x4 boards, with 1/4" SS bolts to hold them in place. It was a few hours of work, but not a particularly difficult job. I sorta wonder if I could have used "bunk slicks" instead of carpet, but "Liquid Rollers" does a fine job of slicking up the carpet. Much better than dish soap.
(Someone on another thread mentioned using Tire Shine. I may try this after I run out of Liquid Rollers. Slick, slippery, and weather-proof, that's what I want there!)
With the boat in the water, you can measure, cut, install carpet, knock out the old boards and bolt in the new ones, at your own convenience.
I used regular bunk carpet from We$$t Marine, on pressure-treated 2x4 boards, with 1/4" SS bolts to hold them in place. It was a few hours of work, but not a particularly difficult job. I sorta wonder if I could have used "bunk slicks" instead of carpet, but "Liquid Rollers" does a fine job of slicking up the carpet. Much better than dish soap.
(Someone on another thread mentioned using Tire Shine. I may try this after I run out of Liquid Rollers. Slick, slippery, and weather-proof, that's what I want there!)
I'll have to check out "Liquid Rollers". I've never heard of it. My O'Day 222 really needs a slick keel board more than slick bunks. I had carpet on the keel board but it got torn up, so I removed it. I only need to load my boat on my trailer once a year, thank God.
Joe
Joe
Joe, with an Oday 22, like your in that the keel takes most of the weight while on the trailer...I am going to get some of the stuff they use in produce and van trailers to keep forklifts from punching holes in the side. I do not know the name of it...will post it when I do. It is about 3/16th to 1/4 in ch thick and is the hardest plastic I have seen.
I will simply attatch it to the board the keel is on. It will also make it easy to 'slide' the boat up onto the trailer if needed.
Jack
I will simply attatch it to the board the keel is on. It will also make it easy to 'slide' the boat up onto the trailer if needed.
Jack
- Status