H34 minor issues

[splax]

Hello,
This frigid air has inhibited my boat refurbishment activities. I would like to bring up two issues that need attention, and are not outside work. The engine panel and the cockpit instruments on the bulkhead. What have others done to repair/replace/refurbish these items?

 

[Richard Bryer]

I found mine had cracked on the corner because the kill switch had become hard to pull. As part of the whole fix job- pulling the cable and lubing it- I moved the pull handle over to a location off the left side of the panel onto solid fiberglass. Then I patched the hole by siliconing a piece of black plastic 1/8 sheet over the hole left in the panel and put a washer over the corner hole that had cracked. Moving the pull switch is the best solution to the poor old panel cracking as it will sooner or later

 

[onecoolair]

I found mine had cracked on the corner because the kill switch had become hard to pull. As part of the whole fix job- pulling the cable and lubing it- I moved the pull handle over to a location off the left side of the panel onto solid fiberglass. Then I patched the hole by siliconing a piece of black plastic 1/8 sheet over the hole left in the panel and put a washer over the corner hole that had cracked. Moving the pull switch is the best solution to the poor old panel cracking as it will sooner or later

I am thinking of making a duplicate panel out of starboard...Then just mounting all the lights,buzzer and key switch to it.

 

[Richard Bryer]

That should work fine- post some pics?

 

[kloudie1]

The original panel plate is still available:
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Yanmar&sku=128170-91010

 

[onecoolair]

The original panel plate is still available:
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=Yanmar&sku=128170-91010

Are you sure about the price?? 228 sound more like it maybe even a 1028 .....Yanmar thinks very highly of them selves.

 

[kloudie1]

Yup.. That is only the panel board .. no switches/tach/lights..etc..

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Yup.. That is only the panel board .. no switches/tach/lights..etc..

Manufacturer: Yanmar
Part Number: 128170-91010</B>
Description:
Panel Housing

Panel Dimensions: 5 3/8" X 10 7/8"
Our price: $28.50 - each

FWIW, If price is indeed as posted, I really don't think doing your own in starboard is worth it, time or money wise : you have to buy the material and then precisely measure everything to cut the various holes. I replaced mine a few years ago and price has not changed all that much.

 

[splax]

I need to refurbish my engine instrument panel also. Instead of moving the pull handle, would it be possible to reinforce that area on a new panel?
The bulkhead instruments need refurbishment, but I think the manufacturer is now defunct. What have others done about the bulkhead cockpit instruments?
I should be getting a 3-blade propeller in a couple weeks. I hope it works well.
I plan to install a 3/4" through-hull & valve aft to supply raw water requirements. I am thinking of using the existing 1/2" raw water intake for deck washdown.

 

[Mike Culik]

Splax,
That is exactly what I did last spring. I bought a new panel, transferred the buzzer, tach, switches, etc. I reinforced the backside of the NEW stop cable with a stainless fender washer ground to fit the area. I think the total was under $80 and it was well worth it!

 

[splax]

Thanks Mike.

 

[Marc Rivest]

I just purchased replacement bumpers from McMaster-Carr (www.Mcmaster.com), a package of 100 for $14.

 

[splax]

Marc, I looked. Can you tell me the item number you got?

 

[splax]

propeller

Well, I got the three blade Campbell Sailer propeller today. I am not comfortable with the leading edge lip design, but I hear it works and that is what is important. It seems they induce turbulent flow across the low pressure surface to impede cavitation and impart a larger effective profile. I suppose the low speed application and available excess power make this appropriate. I hope to see good results.

 

[splax]

prop finish

I painted the propeller with the zinc primer from the auto parts store. It has a rough finish. If I paint it with West to give it a smooth surface, do you think that will negate the zinc anti-fouling?

 

[splax]

raw water hose

Well, today I trimmed wood behind the engine to allow installation of the new hose. The first picture shows bronze 45 and fitting installed inplace of the stubby plastic piece of fitting that was there. There is not enough clearance to allow the hose to the fitting. The second picture shows the hose installed with the wood cut away. It isn't pretty, but will be serviceable.

 

[splax]

Today I excavated the deteriorated wood sole near the companionway where it leaks. I want to install a grate to allow water to drain to the bilge until I figure out how to fix the leak. The teak & holly plywood sits on fiberglass here, and the bilge is open at the corner of the removed wood. Suggestions??

 

[Richard Bryer]

I am presuming you are not too worried about aesthetics here as it is temporary? I would fashion a kind of a dish shaped scoop out of resin and cloth with a drain in the corner to the bilge. You would have to check it to make sure that the hole doesn't get plugged. I would coat the fiberglass under it with grease so the new glass doesn't adhere to the old and you will be able to remove it when you make a permanent fix.

Meantime, take a coat hanger to that starboard side drain channel and try to unplug it.

 

[splax]

I am presuming you are not too worried about aesthetics here as it is temporary? I would fashion a kind of a dish shaped scoop out of resin and cloth with a drain in the corner to the bilge. You would have to check it to make sure that the hole doesn't get plugged. I would coat the fiberglass under it with grease so the new glass doesn't adhere to the old and you will be able to remove it when you make a permanent fix.

Meantime, take a coat hanger to that starboard side drain channel and try to unplug it.

You mean the drain channel on the slider? If that is the issue, easy fix - I'm on it. I figure to put a permanent drain there in the cabin sole though, since the bilge acess is there. That will make clean up easier.

 

[splax]

bumper replacement

I ordered a package of 50 17/32" high bumpers from Mcmaster Carr. The cost is 9.73 + shipping.