What you are about to see, I liberally stole from another forum. The combo struck me as interesting, but one question, how do you apply the WD40 to the linseed oil, it only comes in a spray I thought or am I wrong. Below is the formula, have others tried this - were you happy with it? "Take Linceed oil and WD40 and mix it 50/50. Apply liberaly to your timber till it absorbs no more. Allow to soak in, over night best, and then a wipe down with a rag to remove any excess Linceed oil. In a few months if the timber is looking a little light on oil, you simply spray WD40 on the timber. Nothing else. It's simple and looks great. I have used many very expensive timber oils now. Deks Olja being one of them, at NZ$50/ltr here. I used the No1 and I got about 3 months out of my hatches. The trick to many of the oils especially Deks Olja is to keep applying till the tmber takes no more. But it takes a lot of oil and it aint cheap. I tried my 50/50 mix 10months ago now, on my boarding platform and it still looks good. My Teak hatches looked very sad after just 3months. So I have sprayed all of those with JUST WD40. They come up real smart and have lasted a month so far. A spray can of WD40 made it a very quick and easy job to do. I will continue to monitor the situation and report. But I have been so happy with the outcome so far, I have just applied the same to a friends rubrails I have made up for his steel boat. It is Fijian Mahogany and the finish is stunning. I take some photo's of the hatches and post them in the weekend."
Yet another "formula" for external bright work
- Thread starter rsn48
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Benny, I'm not recommending this tip
Benny, the reason I posted this thread here was to discover if others had success with this technique. I can't vouch for it as I don't have a clue as to whether it works well or not.
Benny, the reason I posted this thread here was to discover if others had success with this technique. I can't vouch for it as I don't have a clue as to whether it works well or not.
wd-40 on wood
That might work well in the Vancouver climate but how will it do in the sunnier southern portion of the country? It might be worth a try, God knows nothing else I've tried has worked very well. I was thinking of simply painting my handrails a buff color.
That might work well in the Vancouver climate but how will it do in the sunnier southern portion of the country? It might be worth a try, God knows nothing else I've tried has worked very well. I was thinking of simply painting my handrails a buff color.
Not a wood technologist......
I'm not a wood technologist, but i sure hope it works well for you. The one thing I can guarantee is that you will never be able to varnish it again. If all these simple remedies worked, dont you think the paint manufacturers would be marketing it as such? On the Mississippi Coast, a good varnish job lasts right at one year. If touched up twice a year, it will always look good and the wood is protected. If touched-up BEFORE it deteriorates, it only requires a light sanding. The whole trick in avoiding a major undertaking is to never let the varnish deteriorate in the first place.
I'm not a wood technologist, but i sure hope it works well for you. The one thing I can guarantee is that you will never be able to varnish it again. If all these simple remedies worked, dont you think the paint manufacturers would be marketing it as such? On the Mississippi Coast, a good varnish job lasts right at one year. If touched up twice a year, it will always look good and the wood is protected. If touched-up BEFORE it deteriorates, it only requires a light sanding. The whole trick in avoiding a major undertaking is to never let the varnish deteriorate in the first place.
Painting Bimmer seats and silicone
Tony, I was wondering if the ingrediants in the WE40 would affect the wood so that what ever you changed to, if you didn't like the results of the 50/50 combo, would affect how it accept something like Cetol, or what have you. I know leather repair guys don't want you using armour all on the leather as the silcone plays he.. with the leather if you want to repaint it, which I do from time to time by a pro. For $150 here, I get the front seats of my Bimmer painted and they look brand new; I know the silcone will create a barrier against the new paint.
Tony, I was wondering if the ingrediants in the WE40 would affect the wood so that what ever you changed to, if you didn't like the results of the 50/50 combo, would affect how it accept something like Cetol, or what have you. I know leather repair guys don't want you using armour all on the leather as the silcone plays he.. with the leather if you want to repaint it, which I do from time to time by a pro. For $150 here, I get the front seats of my Bimmer painted and they look brand new; I know the silcone will create a barrier against the new paint.
RSN48......
Oil will prevent any kind of paint or 'hard' finish from sticking. Im not really all that familiar with Cetol, but from the results, it looks like a varnish with a lot of orange paint pigment in it. Its the pigment that blocks the sun and ultra violet rays that destroy the wood. Im not a fan of Cetol because I dont like the look. But that is purely a personal preference. I would also woneder if the WD 40 may contain something that may actually break down the wood fibers and destroy it. Ever notice that Teak that is oiled or not varnished well, tends to have the soft grain removed and only the hard grain remains and it seems to stand out higher? Well, wood has been lost, and will continue to be lost. Teak is a great wood, but not nearly as bullet proof as some are led to believe. The ols ships were mostly painted to protect the wood. Not as pretty, but lasts longer. Im just not the type to get into what i call 'home made remedies'. The paint industry does not spend millions of dollars every year on research so that some yahoo can make a better product in his basement. The one main thing that helps protect consumers from being screwed over by industry is competition. If WD 40 worked well, the manufacturers of WD 40 would be promoting it and selling it as a wood preservative. Your best protection is paint. then comes a 2 component urethane, then Cetol, then a GOOD grade of varnish, and finally an oil as the least protective. There aint no miracle cures.
Oil will prevent any kind of paint or 'hard' finish from sticking. Im not really all that familiar with Cetol, but from the results, it looks like a varnish with a lot of orange paint pigment in it. Its the pigment that blocks the sun and ultra violet rays that destroy the wood. Im not a fan of Cetol because I dont like the look. But that is purely a personal preference. I would also woneder if the WD 40 may contain something that may actually break down the wood fibers and destroy it. Ever notice that Teak that is oiled or not varnished well, tends to have the soft grain removed and only the hard grain remains and it seems to stand out higher? Well, wood has been lost, and will continue to be lost. Teak is a great wood, but not nearly as bullet proof as some are led to believe. The ols ships were mostly painted to protect the wood. Not as pretty, but lasts longer. Im just not the type to get into what i call 'home made remedies'. The paint industry does not spend millions of dollars every year on research so that some yahoo can make a better product in his basement. The one main thing that helps protect consumers from being screwed over by industry is competition. If WD 40 worked well, the manufacturers of WD 40 would be promoting it and selling it as a wood preservative. Your best protection is paint. then comes a 2 component urethane, then Cetol, then a GOOD grade of varnish, and finally an oil as the least protective. There aint no miracle cures.
Cetol is nothing like varnish
Tony, Of course it's all personal preference, but Cetol is nothing like varnish and the 'light' or 'clear' versions don't have that over-bearing orange tinge. It's more like teak oil on steriods. I've been using Cetol for a few years now and much prefer it to varnish as you'll rarely see a 'peeling' problem with Cetol (and if you do, it's because you didn't prep the teak properly.) Plus, all it takes is a light sanding and you can put another coat on if it starts to look worn. (In this northern climate, Cetol can last at least 2 summers if applied properly.) Just my two cents. Dave Crowley s/v Wind Dreamer II
Tony, Of course it's all personal preference, but Cetol is nothing like varnish and the 'light' or 'clear' versions don't have that over-bearing orange tinge. It's more like teak oil on steriods. I've been using Cetol for a few years now and much prefer it to varnish as you'll rarely see a 'peeling' problem with Cetol (and if you do, it's because you didn't prep the teak properly.) Plus, all it takes is a light sanding and you can put another coat on if it starts to look worn. (In this northern climate, Cetol can last at least 2 summers if applied properly.) Just my two cents. Dave Crowley s/v Wind Dreamer II
This does not sound nice,,
I posted this little ditty on a very large powerboat site. I have personnally met many members there. Here is what one of their remarks was. "Also don't forget that WD-40 "eats" 3M 5200/4200 and other marine sealants. I would be very careful about using it anywhere it could be exposed to those chemicals. WD likes to "creep" along surfaces, so I definitely wouldn't use it on a swim platform where it could unseal the screws holding the brackets to the boat. Just a thought... " Humm this would not be pretty... We have talked about 5200 many times It is certainly good stuff when used in the right places..
I posted this little ditty on a very large powerboat site. I have personnally met many members there. Here is what one of their remarks was. "Also don't forget that WD-40 "eats" 3M 5200/4200 and other marine sealants. I would be very careful about using it anywhere it could be exposed to those chemicals. WD likes to "creep" along surfaces, so I definitely wouldn't use it on a swim platform where it could unseal the screws holding the brackets to the boat. Just a thought... " Humm this would not be pretty... We have talked about 5200 many times It is certainly good stuff when used in the right places..
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