Yanmar Transmission 1993 Hunter 40.5

Feb 10, 2004
3,947
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
Perhaps rogerongaum can explain what lead up to the frozen condition of the engine. It may give some clues on how to get the transmission ratio and even determine if the engine is salvageable. I took it a face value from the original post that the engine was bad.
 
Dec 31, 2011
191
Hunter 40.5 Seattle
I just looked at the transmission my 1993
It's a KANZAKI KM4A #6067.
The ratio is 2..63. I have a maxprop 3 blade classic 20 RH pitch / diameter.
 
Last edited:
Feb 10, 2004
3,947
Hunter 40.5 Warwick, RI
I just looked at the transmission my 1993
It's a KANZAKI KM4A #6067.
The ratio is 2..63. I have a maxprop 3 blade classic 20 RH pitch / diameter.
Excellent, that should help the OP. How did you find the ratio?

In thinking about this more, it probably doesn't matter what the prop is now because even if someone changed it along the way, the transmission would be he same. Any new prop would be the appropriate choice for the existing box. So unless Hunter swapped to a different prop mid-production the ratio would be the same.
 
Dec 31, 2011
191
Hunter 40.5 Seattle
Great. @Rich the pitch and diameter were recommended by PYI/max prop. Seems ok. Typically do 7 knots at 2800/2900 in flat water. Max is about 8+ at 32000/34000 (Which I don't do). There's a little of room to tweak for higher speed at lower rpm but haven't done that. My engine is Old.....
 
Dec 27, 2016
14
Hunter 40.5 Agat, Guam
All, thanks for the great responses to my plight. I have been busy and haven’t had time to do much or check this forum. Really appreciate all the responses, especially from mistralseattle and rich steiger.

I would never have guessed the ratio would be 2.63, but when my engine was running, my boat typically did about 7 knots at 2800 RPM. That is just about hull speed and I rarely exceeded 2800 RPM. My trans is KM4A #6078. We assumed that #6078 is the serial #? My next steps were a call Hunter and possibly pushing the prop shaft back to remove the trans. I was digging out my original owner documents to try and find the engine serial number, the plate is missing. But I think mistralseattle’s info sounds correct as the RPM to speed thru calm water matches my experience perfectly.

Rick, in case this might help someone else, here is my problem as I know it. The engine seized (water rarely gets below 80 degrees F out here) once before and I had someone rebuild it. We found that the wall in the elbow that mixed heated seawater with exhaust to blow out the exhaust had rusted through and when the engine was shut down, seawater dripped back into the first 2 cylinders. We replaced this elbow along with all pistons, rings, bearings, valve seats, etc. Thought that fixed the problem, but apparently sea water is getting into the cylinders from another source. Given the time, effort and $ (at least $4K to $6K) to rebuild the engine in the salon, I think a remanufactured engine is a better solution. Not sure we know enough to be sure we find the real problem. I can get a remanufactured engine for about $7K plus shipping (another $800 or so).

Not really sure what caused the engine to seize, but pretty sure it is sea water getting into the cylinders. Never ran the engine without oil, never overheated. Just seized after sitting up a while and the previous rebuild showed without a doubt that water had gotten into the cylinders via the exhaust.

Really appreciate all the help. I will post status later.

Thanks much to all.

Roger