I have a Hunter 466 and the key is vulnerable to damage from someone's rump sitting on it and snapping it. Any suggestions for a low profile cover?
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Mine.
On my L37, the Yanmar control panel is in a rectangular recessed area of the cockpit specifically designed for the panel. It the has a clear, acrylic glass over the area that matches the lip on the recessed area and is screwed into place on the four corners. There is a round hole cut in the acrylic that allows access to the keyswitch and the starter button. The area is suceptible to foot-banging, but not a butt-hit, but is still well-protected.
On my L37, the Yanmar control panel is in a rectangular recessed area of the cockpit specifically designed for the panel. It the has a clear, acrylic glass over the area that matches the lip on the recessed area and is screwed into place on the four corners. There is a round hole cut in the acrylic that allows access to the keyswitch and the starter button. The area is suceptible to foot-banging, but not a butt-hit, but is still well-protected.
Me Think's
The key has to stay when motoring but not sailing,I would want it in place just in case I need to start it in a emergency and not lose it overboard or need to search for it. If you had a photo would help come up with something.
The key has to stay when motoring but not sailing,I would want it in place just in case I need to start it in a emergency and not lose it overboard or need to search for it. If you had a photo would help come up with something.
Key Protection
Our instrument panel is mounted vertically in the forward face of the starboard side footwell where it can be kicked or bumped. Therefore, I bought two simple 'U' shaped 3 1/2" wide black 'Lowe's' aluminuminum drawer handles and mounted them paralel to the key slot on about a 40 degree angle so the machine screws come thru available areas of the panel either side of the key switch and out of the way of the instruments. The handles project slightly more than the extent of the key and it's not ben bumped since the 'handles' were installed. No jib sheets can catch on the key either.
Our instrument panel is mounted vertically in the forward face of the starboard side footwell where it can be kicked or bumped. Therefore, I bought two simple 'U' shaped 3 1/2" wide black 'Lowe's' aluminuminum drawer handles and mounted them paralel to the key slot on about a 40 degree angle so the machine screws come thru available areas of the panel either side of the key switch and out of the way of the instruments. The handles project slightly more than the extent of the key and it's not ben bumped since the 'handles' were installed. No jib sheets can catch on the key either.
Good Ideas,
But I have seen other users of boat set-ups like mine simply drop the key between the "glass" and the control panel. It is out of the way and can still be quickly reached if an emregency ensues.
But I have seen other users of boat set-ups like mine simply drop the key between the "glass" and the control panel. It is out of the way and can still be quickly reached if an emregency ensues.
A side benefit, Paul:
Taking the key out after starting the engine also has the side benfeit of avoiding our reflex to shut off the engine by turning the key--the way we do in our car a thousand times a year. With the key out of the way pulling the fuel shutoff control is the only way, and becomes more natural.
Taking the key out after starting the engine also has the side benfeit of avoiding our reflex to shut off the engine by turning the key--the way we do in our car a thousand times a year. With the key out of the way pulling the fuel shutoff control is the only way, and becomes more natural.
Engine Control Cover
Hi Jeff, My 2003 466 has the old Hunter design engine control, with no cover, as the newer hunters now have. I'm fabricating a cover in the coming weeks out of starboard and clear plexiglass for the reason you mentioned as well as in response to a sticky start switch that ultimately cost me over $2k to fix.... The starter switch stuck on during an emergency maneuver without the helmsman knowing, frying the starter. All because of a balky $10 switch. I spoke to hunter about retrofitting a new yanmar panel and none of the wiring harnesses are compatible, hence the custom fabrication. If you are interested I'll send you photos when done and any lessons learned during fabrication. allan
Hi Jeff, My 2003 466 has the old Hunter design engine control, with no cover, as the newer hunters now have. I'm fabricating a cover in the coming weeks out of starboard and clear plexiglass for the reason you mentioned as well as in response to a sticky start switch that ultimately cost me over $2k to fix.... The starter switch stuck on during an emergency maneuver without the helmsman knowing, frying the starter. All because of a balky $10 switch. I spoke to hunter about retrofitting a new yanmar panel and none of the wiring harnesses are compatible, hence the custom fabrication. If you are interested I'll send you photos when done and any lessons learned during fabrication. allan
starter key
If you take the key out of the ignition while the engine is running you will turn off the charging system and possibly fry the diodes as there is no place for the electricity generated by the alternator to be deposited (i.e. battery).
If you take the key out of the ignition while the engine is running you will turn off the charging system and possibly fry the diodes as there is no place for the electricity generated by the alternator to be deposited (i.e. battery).
Not so on my boat, Bob
The key switch on my 356 allows the key to be removed in the running position without affecting any connections. Maybe it shouldn't but it does. Threrefore removing my key does nothing to fry the alternator.
The key switch on my 356 allows the key to be removed in the running position without affecting any connections. Maybe it shouldn't but it does. Threrefore removing my key does nothing to fry the alternator.
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