OK, the inevitable came up. I swapped my yanmar 1gm for a yanmar 2gm 20. I paid a decent price for the engine and had a boat yard do the work. Besides the swap, they replaced the muffler, transmission, new packing, new throttle cable, shaft, prop and repitched it as well. My question is what is "reasonable" as far as work hours. I was charged about 52 hours for everything. (25 for two guys) Any thoughts?
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Hours on a job
Ask them if they charged a "Flat rate" or was it actual hours... most likely actual and if you weren't there to document then probably not much you can do. Did you get an estimate before the job started, and it took more than estimated I would ask for a good reason why...
Ask them if they charged a "Flat rate" or was it actual hours... most likely actual and if you weren't there to document then probably not much you can do. Did you get an estimate before the job started, and it took more than estimated I would ask for a good reason why...
Installed correctly?
Three eight hour days for two mechanics does not seem unreasonable. But ONLY if the work was done right and you are satisfied with the result. Installing a diesel and getting all the plumbing, wiring, shift and throttle cables, and alignment done right is a big job.
Three eight hour days for two mechanics does not seem unreasonable. But ONLY if the work was done right and you are satisfied with the result. Installing a diesel and getting all the plumbing, wiring, shift and throttle cables, and alignment done right is a big job.
Thinking of the same
I got a Renault in my 1980 H27. It's loses power after about 10-15 minutes of running. So I'm seriously thinking of replacing it with a Yanmar 2gm20. I'd appreicate any suggestions you can have in having the job done. I'd also be interested in where you got your Yanmar from, was it new or rebuilt? Is there anyway to change to a fresh water cooled system? Also does anyone know if there's a 'best' time of year to get this work done? TIA - Mike
I got a Renault in my 1980 H27. It's loses power after about 10-15 minutes of running. So I'm seriously thinking of replacing it with a Yanmar 2gm20. I'd appreicate any suggestions you can have in having the job done. I'd also be interested in where you got your Yanmar from, was it new or rebuilt? Is there anyway to change to a fresh water cooled system? Also does anyone know if there's a 'best' time of year to get this work done? TIA - Mike
The Time
The replacement time sounds fair, I removed and replaced an engine for a friend, and I am sure it took more time than you paid for. No doubt, a big HOT job, especially last month in NJ! If you had it done where I suspect you did, they have a very good reputation. Cost? my guess, probably just less than $4000.
The replacement time sounds fair, I removed and replaced an engine for a friend, and I am sure it took more time than you paid for. No doubt, a big HOT job, especially last month in NJ! If you had it done where I suspect you did, they have a very good reputation. Cost? my guess, probably just less than $4000.
does eninge replacement call for new prop?
In general terms, if you increase HP, do you need to change the prop (size or pitch) or does the new transmission - if included - handle it? I guess my question is does the engine turn faster, and if so, what do you do about shaft revolutions?
In general terms, if you increase HP, do you need to change the prop (size or pitch) or does the new transmission - if included - handle it? I guess my question is does the engine turn faster, and if so, what do you do about shaft revolutions?
Prop change not necessary but. . .
I think that you would. Engine changes are usually for additional horsepower, not RPMs. The rated HP of a 2GM and a 3GM are very similar for example. But the 30hp is able to swing a bigger prop, both diameter and pitch. To take advantage of the increased torque at the same RPM you would, I think, want to improve your prop. It is also possible that an engine change would include a transmission with a different gear ratio. Then the RPMs at the shaft would be different, usually higher. Again a prop change would be warranted. Wish I had the money to replace my 2QM20 and test these theories!
I think that you would. Engine changes are usually for additional horsepower, not RPMs. The rated HP of a 2GM and a 3GM are very similar for example. But the 30hp is able to swing a bigger prop, both diameter and pitch. To take advantage of the increased torque at the same RPM you would, I think, want to improve your prop. It is also possible that an engine change would include a transmission with a different gear ratio. Then the RPMs at the shaft would be different, usually higher. Again a prop change would be warranted. Wish I had the money to replace my 2QM20 and test these theories!
Repowering
Two years ago I unceremoniously tossed the stock Yanmar YSM-12 -- what a piece of, uh, er, junk! -- overboard and replaced it with a Bukh (boo-kuh; Danish) DV24me 24hp diesel. Start to finish, $8k including the engine, yard time, some things I wanted to change, cleaning the tanks, bearings and prop. Power is a function of going from the flywheel to the Jesus nut and getting the most efficient combination so the max hp goes to the prop. You can typically expect to lose roughly 30% of your total hp by the time it all gets to the prop. It's one of those "laws" that governs things. I spent $3k of the $8k having some very talented guys install the new engine, do all the hook ups etc. At roughly $60/hr, they spent 50 hrs. getting it all done including pulling the old engine and putting in the new. I felt like I got a fair deal. When you repower, you are tossing out EVERYTHING that once was and re-inventing the wheel, so the factors change with hp. Ed's a pretty smart guy, but I think he kinda missed this a bit. First, sure, more hp and you can swing a bigger wheel but ONLY if you have the clearance to do it! In fact, more HP almost demands a bigger wheel, but you have limited space under the water and that's constrained by prop diameter and clearance. You don't want to encroach that clearance or you will find that the non-compressiblity of water will "pound" your hull and reduce your efficiency. I borrowed a principal from aviation and have a "winged" prop on my 78h30. The winglets at the prop tips create a "ducted fan" that recovers energy at the prop tips, reduces cavitation and puts more energy back into the push. Email me at bhowie@txucom.net if you are interested in this. The props are readily available. Overall, I think you got your money's worth and a fair deal.
Two years ago I unceremoniously tossed the stock Yanmar YSM-12 -- what a piece of, uh, er, junk! -- overboard and replaced it with a Bukh (boo-kuh; Danish) DV24me 24hp diesel. Start to finish, $8k including the engine, yard time, some things I wanted to change, cleaning the tanks, bearings and prop. Power is a function of going from the flywheel to the Jesus nut and getting the most efficient combination so the max hp goes to the prop. You can typically expect to lose roughly 30% of your total hp by the time it all gets to the prop. It's one of those "laws" that governs things. I spent $3k of the $8k having some very talented guys install the new engine, do all the hook ups etc. At roughly $60/hr, they spent 50 hrs. getting it all done including pulling the old engine and putting in the new. I felt like I got a fair deal. When you repower, you are tossing out EVERYTHING that once was and re-inventing the wheel, so the factors change with hp. Ed's a pretty smart guy, but I think he kinda missed this a bit. First, sure, more hp and you can swing a bigger wheel but ONLY if you have the clearance to do it! In fact, more HP almost demands a bigger wheel, but you have limited space under the water and that's constrained by prop diameter and clearance. You don't want to encroach that clearance or you will find that the non-compressiblity of water will "pound" your hull and reduce your efficiency. I borrowed a principal from aviation and have a "winged" prop on my 78h30. The winglets at the prop tips create a "ducted fan" that recovers energy at the prop tips, reduces cavitation and puts more energy back into the push. Email me at bhowie@txucom.net if you are interested in this. The props are readily available. Overall, I think you got your money's worth and a fair deal.
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