Yanmar Raw Water Pump Rebuild

sailcapt340

sailcapt340

.
Sep 26, 2008
697
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
Has anyone rebuilt their Raw Water Pump?
My 2000 Yanmar 3GM30F Engine needs a new Raw Water Pump. It has a drip coming from the center of the pump housing. It’s not a gusher but needs to be replaced or rebuilt. You may not see the drip from my pictures but it’s there. The green coating tells me it may have been there a while and just didn’t see it. It turns into a spray while the engine is running. I can see it but the camera can’t pick it up.
My feeling is it’s the bearings and that’s why I ask if anyone has rebuilt theirs.
Thank you for any insight.
 

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dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
12,762
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Can't help you with the pump rebuild, however you are fortunate to have a Speedseal. Great device made accessing the impeller much easier. It came from a small business in England and when the owner could no longer run the business it appears no one bought it.
 
jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,848
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Re building a pump is not an overly complex process. it helps to have the equipment to press on and off the seals. So much better then hammering them into place.

You may also find a new pump is not too expensive. Then you just need to deal with the pulley. Refurbish the pump at your leisure and you have a back up.
 
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sailcapt340

sailcapt340

.
Sep 26, 2008
697
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
Absolutely one of the best innovations ever produced. I remember a few posts back you told us Speedseal was out of business. I didn’t know that. That stays regardless of a new pump or a rebuild.
 
sailcapt340

sailcapt340

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Sep 26, 2008
697
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
That’s always been in my mind for a lot of parts. Buy new, rebuild and have the spare. I haven’t priced out the pump as of this time but that’s my next step.
 
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Alan Gomes

Alan Gomes

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Nov 22, 2011
1,250
Ericson 26-2 San Pedro, CA
sailcapt340 said:
Has anyone rebuilt their Raw Water Pump?
My 2000 Yanmar 3GM30F Engine needs a new Raw Water Pump. It has a drip coming from the center of the pump housing. It’s not a gusher but needs to be replaced or rebuilt. You may not see the drip from my pictures but it’s there. The green coating tells me it may have been there a while and just didn’t see it. It turns into a spray while the engine is running. I can see it but the camera can’t pick it up.
My feeling is it’s the bearings and that’s why I ask if anyone has rebuilt theirs.
Thank you for any insight.
Click to expand
You could have Depco Pump in Florida look it over for you and let you know if it rebuildable, and if so, what is the cost. They are a great company,
 
J

jaysweet

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Jun 25, 2004
480
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
It's a pretty easy fix. See this posting, which contains other links as well. Depco pumps (or better yet: sailboatowners.com!!) is the place to buy the seal.

Johnson raw water pump: leaking seal

So this is more of an informational / sparking conversation posting, as I don't really think I have a question. I have a Johnson 10-24509-01 raw water pump (or F4B-903: not sure which is the real part number) on my Yanmar 2GM20F engine from 2004. Around a month ago, I noticed a small puddle of...
forums.sailboatowners.com

Actually, SBO seems to be out, but search for "Lip Seals 12mm x 24mm x 7mm" on amazon (or whatever the size is for your pump), and you'll find what you need.
 
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sailcapt340

sailcapt340

.
Sep 26, 2008
697
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
Thank you everyone for your kind help. I’ve dowloaded Ken’s instructions and it’s seems pretty straightforward. I’ve also located the part number needed for my 3GM30F.
The sticking point seems to have been my engines Serial No..
Mine begins with the letter E, which makes it European, which now gives it an YEU designation at the end of the serial number.
Who knew. Never was an issue before, now it is.
Anyway, I have the proper part number now (128397-42500) and have located a new one locally for $275.
I will contact Depco Pump as suggested later this morning and get their estimate on rebuilding it and/or pricing for the parts and have a winter project.
We should be back on the water soon now.
Thank you everyone.
 
J

jaysweet

.
Jun 25, 2004
480
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
sailcapt340: I really wouldn't bother with buying a new pump. This is a really easy repair. I read Ken's instructions, but I never even took the bearings off the shaft. All that was needed was to replace the "double lip oil seal", which is maybe a 45 minute job. So it's $10 vs. $275.
 
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RoyS

RoyS

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Jun 3, 2012
1,742
Hunter 33 Steamboat Wharf, Hull, MA
Suggest that you buy a new one and install it. Then, at your leisure, rebuild the original and keep it on board for a spare. IMHO you should have a spare of nearly every pump on your boat including all of the following: Toilet hand pump assembly, engine raw water, engine coolant, engine fuel, fresh water and macerator. Pumps can and do fail and will fail "When you are out there" as Captain Ron would say. For rebuilding your raw water pump you will like having an arbor press on your work bench. I bought an inexpensive manual arbor press for a one time job but later found that I use it often.
 
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J

jaysweet

.
Jun 25, 2004
480
Hunter 306 Pasadena MD
RoyS said:
Suggest that you buy a new one and install it. Then, at your leisure, rebuild the original and keep it on board for a spare. IMHO you should have a spare of nearly every pump on your boat including all of the following: Toilet hand pump assembly, engine raw water, engine coolant, engine fuel, fresh water and macerator. Pumps can and do fail and will fail "When you are out there" as Captain Ron would say. For rebuilding your raw water pump you will like having an arbor press on your work bench. I bought an inexpensive manual arbor press for a one time job but later found that I use it often.
Click to expand
I'd just comment that people's mechanical abilities vary widely. While this particular repair might sound daunting to someone who's not all that proficient with tools (no idea where the OP lies on the scale), it's really a very easy repair. You don't need an arbor press or even (really) a bench vise, although a vice would be handy. I didn't even need to tap the oil seal into the housing with a socket: it pushed in by hand with some superlube on it.
 
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kloudie1

kloudie1

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Nov 6, 2006
10,058
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Ken's pump instructions are for a slightly different pump. The 3GMF pump, if it hasn't been replaced, uses 2, # 6202 2RS double sealed bearings and the seal is TC 13287 (13mm ID, 28mm OD, 7MM thick) (Yanmar #124223-42080). The shaft, if ya need one because of wear on the seal rub surface is #121575-42501. The seal and bearings are standard parts, available at Grainger or Motion Industries , etc. I would get name brand bearings like SKF or NSK or Timken.. The Yanmar shaft is pretty expensive but a machine shop could turn one for you for less..
II have rebuilt my pump a couple of times in the 30+ years I have owned it.
I carry a spare seal and bearings and impeller on the boat ..
Because it may have been changed on your boat, it'd be best to make sure that the parts I talk about apply to your pump.
 
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sailcapt340

sailcapt340

.
Sep 26, 2008
697
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
I did note the engine model numbers for Ken’s instructions. But it’s a good guide and thank you for the heads-up. I have an email put out to Depco and waiting their response now.
In the mean time it’s laying back, enjoying the weather and eat.
 
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seadaddler

seadaddler

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Dec 19, 2006
5,819
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Don’t buy rebuilt buy new or try rebuild like I did with Ken’s help but my 3YM30 new pump is usually cheaper than the GM 30
 
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