While trying to remove the black plastic instrument panel on our 84 H31, it broke in half. I don't want to just glue it back together, I would like to replace it. I am going to try my local Yanmar dealer first. If they can't order it where can I buy one. Thanks, Bob
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Instrument Panel...
That is the place to go, Bob. The replacement is very straight forward. Just mark the wires, or take a pic of the setup if your memory or sketching is not very good. Curious how you broke it...Besides a very hard blow, another common reason is the stop cable getting stiff and pulling too hard on it... If you get the panel AND the wires, I have some suggestions for you... Aldo alozano@monmouth.com
That is the place to go, Bob. The replacement is very straight forward. Just mark the wires, or take a pic of the setup if your memory or sketching is not very good. Curious how you broke it...Besides a very hard blow, another common reason is the stop cable getting stiff and pulling too hard on it... If you get the panel AND the wires, I have some suggestions for you... Aldo alozano@monmouth.com
Same problem here
my stop cable pull pulled out of black plastic Yanmar facing( The whole thing was shot and cracked in numerous spots) I purchased a new one from Mack Boring (http://www.mackboring.com). I think I paid about 375-425 for it. One thing to consider is mounting the pull stop directly into the solid fiberglass along side the panel.Seal carefully with 5200 to prevent water getting in. The plastic is too weak I think. There is a installation below decks by Steve Dion in the photo forum however I like the in cockpit mount better. Again mark the wires before you disconnect. It then becomes a simple wire to wire installation. Best of luck. Post how you make out.
my stop cable pull pulled out of black plastic Yanmar facing( The whole thing was shot and cracked in numerous spots) I purchased a new one from Mack Boring (http://www.mackboring.com). I think I paid about 375-425 for it. One thing to consider is mounting the pull stop directly into the solid fiberglass along side the panel.Seal carefully with 5200 to prevent water getting in. The plastic is too weak I think. There is a installation below decks by Steve Dion in the photo forum however I like the in cockpit mount better. Again mark the wires before you disconnect. It then becomes a simple wire to wire installation. Best of luck. Post how you make out.
Bob:
I think that the instrument panel bezel is about $35. Just make sure that you know where everything goes like the previous post say. Another option is to having the kill switch below (like mine) is to just install it next to the panel. This keeps pressure off the panel if the cable get had to pull.
I think that the instrument panel bezel is about $35. Just make sure that you know where everything goes like the previous post say. Another option is to having the kill switch below (like mine) is to just install it next to the panel. This keeps pressure off the panel if the cable get had to pull.
Aldo
You got it! I pulled on it to hard trying to break the silicon seal. I just bought a new VHF w/RAM remote mic mounted in the cockpit. I was removing the panel to get behind it to run the wires. I cut the caulk, but I guess I didn't cut it all. Bob P.S. The radio (Standard Horizon Intrepid) works great and the remote mic/station is awsome.
You got it! I pulled on it to hard trying to break the silicon seal. I just bought a new VHF w/RAM remote mic mounted in the cockpit. I was removing the panel to get behind it to run the wires. I cut the caulk, but I guess I didn't cut it all. Bob P.S. The radio (Standard Horizon Intrepid) works great and the remote mic/station is awsome.
Lesson learned!
A good method of breaking a caulk seal is to get some fine piano wire and wrap it around a couple of stick or pieces of dowel rod. When you are trying to pull something (ports, cleats, deck organizer, sheet stopper, cam cleats etc). You can cut the caulk with the wire. Bob: you didn't like that old panel anyway<g>. Did you?
A good method of breaking a caulk seal is to get some fine piano wire and wrap it around a couple of stick or pieces of dowel rod. When you are trying to pull something (ports, cleats, deck organizer, sheet stopper, cam cleats etc). You can cut the caulk with the wire. Bob: you didn't like that old panel anyway<g>. Did you?
Part Number for B type panel?
Steve Dion's suggestion for mounting the kill switch away from the panel itself is a good one. An earlier owner on my H33 pulled the whole lower edge loose and pulled the pull switch right through the panel. Mounted low it is also a hazard to step on. Anybody have the part number for a B type panel, just the panel itself onto which all the lights instruments buzzers fit?
Steve Dion's suggestion for mounting the kill switch away from the panel itself is a good one. An earlier owner on my H33 pulled the whole lower edge loose and pulled the pull switch right through the panel. Mounted low it is also a hazard to step on. Anybody have the part number for a B type panel, just the panel itself onto which all the lights instruments buzzers fit?
Add some support
I had some cracking around the kill pullout and reinforced both inside and outside with large stainless washers. I split the washers with a hacksaw, twisted to open them far enough to clear the cable, straightened the washers with the splits facing down and sealed with caulk. Also, there is a Yanmar service bulletin that recommends regularly removing the inner cable, cleaning and greasing it before reinserting. I loosened the cable from the panel to relieve the stress of pulling the inner cable free and used SuperLube.
I had some cracking around the kill pullout and reinforced both inside and outside with large stainless washers. I split the washers with a hacksaw, twisted to open them far enough to clear the cable, straightened the washers with the splits facing down and sealed with caulk. Also, there is a Yanmar service bulletin that recommends regularly removing the inner cable, cleaning and greasing it before reinserting. I loosened the cable from the panel to relieve the stress of pulling the inner cable free and used SuperLube.
Yanmar panel -Torresen Marine
I have been to Torresen a couple of times. They know what they have in stock and typically ship next day with whatever speed of delivery service you want to pay for. 231 759 8596 in Muskegon Michigan
I have been to Torresen a couple of times. They know what they have in stock and typically ship next day with whatever speed of delivery service you want to pay for. 231 759 8596 in Muskegon Michigan
Made my own
I had the same problem when my son kicked the panel and it borke in half. (No he did't get mad, just slipped). I was able to make up a replacement using white plexiglass (the type used to make signs with). I copies the shape and traced the openings for the various lights, switches and gagues and viola, a new panel better than the thin plastic one. (it seals better too).
I had the same problem when my son kicked the panel and it borke in half. (No he did't get mad, just slipped). I was able to make up a replacement using white plexiglass (the type used to make signs with). I copies the shape and traced the openings for the various lights, switches and gagues and viola, a new panel better than the thin plastic one. (it seals better too).
Howard idea...
...is still better, for several reasons...One: you can have it any color you want to match your fancy. Two, you can make a duplicate and have one ready in case something happen again (or just keep the pattern) and third, and perhaps more important, you can put an aluminum backing plate for added streng and common ground. Who said sailors aren't smart?
))
...is still better, for several reasons...One: you can have it any color you want to match your fancy. Two, you can make a duplicate and have one ready in case something happen again (or just keep the pattern) and third, and perhaps more important, you can put an aluminum backing plate for added streng and common ground. Who said sailors aren't smart?
))Thanks
Thanks to everyone. My local Yanmar dealer ordered the part and will be in Wednesday. Terry, mine is also a "B" style. I'll try to get you a part number. Bob
Thanks to everyone. My local Yanmar dealer ordered the part and will be in Wednesday. Terry, mine is also a "B" style. I'll try to get you a part number. Bob
New panel costs
If you buy a new panel with a new tach, switches, lights, etc etc its going to costs about $400. If all you need is a new plastic panel, Mark is right, its about $30 bucks. It takes a couple hours to replace, mostly involved in cleaning and resealing the face plate. Most of the electrical and mechanical parts screw, snap or bolt in. Another source for parts is Mavex 305-436-1860, ask for Mike Valdez.
If you buy a new panel with a new tach, switches, lights, etc etc its going to costs about $400. If all you need is a new plastic panel, Mark is right, its about $30 bucks. It takes a couple hours to replace, mostly involved in cleaning and resealing the face plate. Most of the electrical and mechanical parts screw, snap or bolt in. Another source for parts is Mavex 305-436-1860, ask for Mike Valdez.
Terry Arnold.....Part number
Terry, the "B" panel part number is:128170-91010. I paid $22.44 plus $6.00 freight from my local Yanmar dealer. Bob
Terry, the "B" panel part number is:128170-91010. I paid $22.44 plus $6.00 freight from my local Yanmar dealer. Bob
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