Yanmar Impeller Replacement

[Mike H.]

I replaced the impeller on our 1994 Yanmar 3jh2e. What a PITA!!!! :cussing:

The location of the pump is facing aft looking straight at the end of the starting motor with only about 2" of clearance to R&R the impeller. We have a Vision 36 and hunter did not create a hatch in the engine compartment to access the pump.

If it wasn't for my wife's small hands, we would not have been able to accomplish this task without removing the starter.

My question is......Has anyone else dealt with this chore and did you remove the pump or the starter to make it easier?

 

[Steve Dion]

Mike: I have considered cutting an access panel in the port side of the engine compartment. Then I will install a Speed Seal. This will allow much easier access to the impeller and no screw driver will be needed.

 

[Mike H.]

The door is a good idea. I considered it, but it will take some time to do it right. What were they thinking when the designed that pump location?????

I'm going to look into the speed seal also.

Are you coming down to the bay for the air shows and "Fleet Week" this weekend?

Thanks,

MIke

 

[Allan Frey]

See archives. In summary, I cut about a 20x20 hole in the head wall and trimmed it by installing a plastic hatch. Gave me good access. I got an 8 inch needle nose type pliers with a 90 degree bend (auto store) to grip the impeller and pull it out. Made changing the the impeller on that engine fairly quick and easy. Don't need a speed seal.

Allan

 

[kloudie1]

A friend has that engine.. the 90 degree nosed ones were just the ticket to grab the impeller and pull it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38598

 

[Mike H.]

A friend has that engine.. the 90 degree nosed ones were just the ticket to grab the impeller and pull it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38598

Yup, I went to the store and bought 90 degree needle nose pliers as soon as I got the cover off. It's the only that would work.

 

[Steve Dion]

Mike: We are coming to the bay later in the day on Sat. We have a commitment on Friday evening. Our friends have a place on San Rafael creek, and we will be having an after the show party (just an excuse).

 

[Steve Dion]

Allan: The SpeedSeal just makes the entire process that much easier. There is virtually no access on the port side of the engine on the HV'36. It is NOTHING like the 376 even though both have the same engine.

 

[Don12364]

My Experience with the 3JH" Impeller

Out of interest I have located my posting in the archives on this subject from Oct 2005 and it is repeated below.
I still have not changed the impeller and now have another three hundred hours on the engine.
The main point is to slot the two lower holes in the pump cover plate so it is then not necessary to remove the screws to get the plate off and back on again. The top screws are easy.
.................................................
I just unbolt the alternator without disconnecting its wires. Then lean over the (hot?) engine and do the job. On my boats I only change impellers when they fail, but I did change it on my 376 because, as a result of all the paranoia on HOW in 1997, I was worried it MIGHT fail. The current impeller has now done over 800 hours. I asked Yanmar how long was the design life of the impeller but they were silent on this. So, to date, 10 seasons, over 1000 engine hours, and one change and NO failures. To make the job easier I slotted the two lower holes in the cover plate so it is now not necessary to completely remove these two screws. Did this with a small hacksaw and file. Nowadays there is a proprietary product on the market with knurled screws to make it even easier. Previous threads have described making a hatch through from the shower cubicle using a proprietary waterproof hatch. For the frequency of need and lower soundproofing I did not deem it worthwhile.

 

[Roy10289]

I have the 3JH2E Yanmar also. I have no problem with access to the water pump ,however the impeller faces aft with only about 4-5" between it and the starter motor.Even using the 90 degree pliers talked about I don't think there is enough room to pull the impeller out. Did others do this without removing the the water pump or starter motor from the engine block first??

 

[Brad Hoff]

To pull the impeller, I found a paint can key works perfectly. Keep it in my small box of engine replacement parts & filters.

 

[Mike H.]

I have the 3JH2E Yanmar also. I have no problem with access to the water pump ,however the impeller faces aft with only about 4-5" between it and the starter motor.Even using the 90 degree pliers talked about I don't think there is enough room to pull the impeller out. Did others do this without removing the the water pump or starter motor from the engine block first??

Roy, I worked mine out with one pair of 90 degree needle nose. Grab a blade on one side, pull, grab a blade on the other side, pull, repeat 100 times. It took about two hours, (with breaks), with my body in the configuration of a pretzle. That's two hours just pulling the impeller. That does not include removing or replacing the cover.

And, no, I did not remove the starter or the pump itself. However, I strongly considered it.

My boat is a 94, and I think this is the first time the impeller was replaced. I urge you to do it and keep a spare. Because when it does go out, it will be the most unoppourtune time and you should know what your dealing with.

 

[Harvey18667]

The last time I did this job I fabricated two plastic wedges to pry out the impeller. It took only a couple of minutes to get the impeller out without any damage to it. The wedges are made from two old toothbrushes. Cut them roughly in 1/2 and discard the ends with the brushes. The plastic does not damage the pump housing and the impeller comes out easily, turning a two hour job into a 15 minute one.