Yanmar hand crank

[Don Crowther]

Just a quick question.

Does anyone know if the Hunter 31 (yanmar 2gm) came with a hand crank for the engine? If so where did they stow it.

I haven't come across mine yet. If there wasn't one does anyone have drawings for one.

Thanks
Don
S/V :naughty::naughty:

 

[Sailgunner]

I have heard you could never get it started with a hand crank anyway.

 

[Guest]

2GM

Hi Don, our 1989 H28 2GM20 did not come with a hand crank. Considering how hard our 2GM was to start normally (typical of the 2GMs), a hand crank start would be near impossible, IMHO.

Terry Cox

 

[Don Crowther]

One of the reasons I'm asking is because the owners manual explains how to start this engine with the crank. Maybe that's for another application or installation.

It does have decompression levers. If not for hand crank starting what else would you use them for? Would you open them to reduce strain on your starter when you are bleeding your fuel lines? I haven't changed any fuel filters yet (spring project) so I will have to read up on bleeding the fuel lines.

 

[Sailgunner]

I infact use the decompression valves to help wihen I bleed the system. You need to be a little careful with the starter motor but it sure helps how long it takes to bleed the system. They might also help with a low battery to get it cranking but I have never tried that.

 

[Steve Dion]

GM engine hard to start? I have never found this to be the case. The one on our '85 H'31 was never difficult to start. When the batteries are finally on their last leg we had to release the decompression levers to crank over the engine, the we would drop one lever at a time. I wish my 3JH had decompression levers for just this thing.

I have never seen one of the starter cranks on any of these boats. I would not recommend them anyone, it is probably a good way to break a wrist/arm when the thing kicks back.

You may be able to find something about crank starting one of these engines on some other websites. We discussed this many years ago and everyone pretty much agreed that it was NOT a safe operation. I cannot imagine being 500 miles offshore and trying to deal with a broken arm. <ouch>

 

[Guest]

2GM

The 2GM on our 1989 H28 always started, especially when it was warm, within the first one second crank. During the colder periods, however, I had to set the throttle at three quarters then crank for a minimum of five and sometimes up to ten seconds before ignition would begin. Of course it comes with no glow plugs.

Now the 4JH2 on our current boat, no matter the temperature, warm, cold or throttle setting (usually just above idle), it fires up within a one second crank. No glow plugs here either. Our Genset has a three cylinder Cummins (Kubota) engine with glow plugs and it usually takes two two second cranks before it fires up from a cold start; never on the first crank.

Terry Cox

 

[jtm]

I have the 2GMF on a 85 28.5 and it has run like a charm. So long as you have clean fuel and oxygen it should kick over. I use the (un) compression levers rarely, but I see that its easier/quicker to pressurize/top off the fuel filter cup with out them- beats using that little manual lever. Also set to uncompress at end of season when I want to lube up the cyl walls alittle and finish the antifreeze insertion into the block. I do same at beginning of season for about 8-10 seconds before engaging compression and it kicks over every time.

The difficulties you may sense is more likely starter motor "voltage drop" which might appear like a soft battery. check the archive for solutions. I did the supplementary heavy wire addition and it has made a significant improvement to the starting process/ reliability.

 

[Don Crowther]

Well that settles it I'm going to quit looking for one.

Thanks for all your inputs
Don

 

[Guest]

2GM

Hi Don, on behalf of all of us, you are very welcome.

Terry Cox

 

[ktm500mx]

hand cranks sometimes are availble on ebay

 

[CaribbeanSoul]

I have hand started thes motors quite a few times, If you open the compression releases and slowly get the engine turning, keep going faster until you have it going as fast as you can, then remove the handle, as the engine starts slowing down, flip the compression levers closed and Viola! she pops to life everytime, no batter power, no problem... Best feature for Yanmar IMO, really give me piece of mind when offshore sailing.

 

[wufibugs]

Hello all. My name is Richard. I just bought a 1986 Hunter 31. The PO was very careful about keeping everything that came with the boat, and it includes a hand crank. I have lots of experience with gas car engines, and none with diesels. I found this thread interesting and mystifying, but will assume that as I read the Yanmar Service manual I was able to download from another thread, the comments here will make more sense. I see what I assume to be lubricating oil [pinkish] collecting below the engine. It looks like it's coming from the gasket at the filter, or perhaps that the filter cannister ring was cross-threaded. Not really sure yet until I look very closely.

 

[Steve Dion]

I do not think that this engine came with a hand crank. I owned a 1985 H'31 with the 2GM engine and there was not a hand crank (nor should there have been one).

The lub oil for the engine & trans are both either 30wt or 15-40wt. Once the engine is run for a couple of hours it is not going to be anything but dirty oil. I believe you may have a coolant leak or a fuel leak (most likely). Check the banjo fittings on the engine, they were probably unscrewed and not replaced. This is a common problem.

 

[wufibugs]

Thanks, Steve. Just to expose the full measure of my ignorance, how strong does diesel fuel smell? We're talking about 1/8 cup liquid. Wouldn't take much gas to stink up the cabin, but I did not notice an odor. The leak was apparent only when the engine was exposed. What color would the coolant be? Is this engine fresh or salt water cooled? So many questions, so little time to embarrass oneself.

 

[Nereussailor]

I bled the fuel system on my 2GM yesterday for the first time after replacing the fuel pump. It was super easy. I have been told that you have to bleed from the fuel filter first, then from the injector pump, then from the injectors, and hope that it starts. I bled from the fuel filter, and fired it up. ran it for 30 minutes and it kept running. I also got the tach to work from a thread that was posted on the forums here.
I've got a place for my hand crank, But have never seen one. I've been over every inch of the boat.
Dave

 

[Ed Schenck]

Richard, from your description I am leaning toward coolant because of color. Fresh diesel is very similar in color but should have an odor. I occasionally have a little in the pan from the overflow tube of my 3YM30.

If you are not afraid of the bleeding process you could unscrew the primary fuel filter and compare the contents. When I put my Racor back together I smear a little 30W oil on the rubber seal. I have never had a leak there.

 

[Steve Dion]

If you stick your finger in the liquid, you should be able to determine if it is diesel fuel or coolant. Be sure to place one of the absorbant mats in your bilge to prevent it from getting from your engine bilge to the main bilge.

 

[nickc]

US Issue?

The GM 30 on my previous Australian boat had a stating handle as was the case with other owners I know down here. Maybe this is a US issue insurance/safety/litigation etc re broken wrists ripped off thumbs! I get the impression there is an excess of lawyers in The States!
I used my starting handle I think three or four times but only once in anger when she wouldn't start coming into the leads (corroded battery terminal) No problem to start just set the decompression levers get some momentum into the flywheel (only takes about four turns) flip them back with the other hand and bingo away she fires.

 

[RobJ74]

Regarding the 'hard to start' issue. After changing my filter this spring I had some issues with bleeding. First mistake was blowing $200 on new batteries just to realize I'd overheated my starter. I took my starter apart, found that it had turned black inside. I cleaned the armature, brushes and reassembled. Its September 4th now and I've had no issues since and this after about 20 hours on the motor this summer. I have the 20GM, Hunter 29.5. Moral of the story, if you're having starter issues, investigate the starter and use those decompression levers for bleeding!