Yanmar 2GM20F Mixing Elbow

[jrezab]

I am replacing the Mixing Elbow on my 1986 Pearson 303. There is a stainless steel connecting piece that screws into the cast metal engine exhaust manifold and the mixing elbow. My question is should I be applying a sealant to the threads of the connecting piece. If so what type do you suggest?

Jerry
Windy City

 

[Lee Hadjiosif]

I am replacing the Mixing Elbow on my 1986 Pearson 303. There is a stainless steel connecting piece that screws into the cast metal engine exhaust manifold and the mixing elbow. My question is should I be applying a sealant to the threads of the connecting piece. If so what type do you suggest?

Jerry
Windy City

I would use some anti-seize compound from an auto store. The same one they use for spark plugs. It will lubricate the threads and prevent seizure.
Lee

 

[Dave602]

When I put mine on I did all new pieces. The mechanic at the marina says they use no sealant, it's a tapered fit and the pressure is negligible. After 5-10 years they will still need to be heated with a torch to get them off usually.

 

[Warren Milberg]

You'll need a new gasket between the elbow and the manifold. Also, look at this thread for recommendations for pipe dope and never-seize product advice.

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=126359&referrerid=36742

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

My question is should I be applying a sealant to the threads of the connecting piece. If so what type do you suggest?

Yes ............... you should definitely be applying pipe dope to the threads. Not for sealing at these low pressures but to remove the mixing elbow the next time you want to inspect it. No torching required.

This is one of many sealants that will do the job when used properly and safely. It's mostly lead.

 

[BigEasy]

Changed a mixing elbow on 2gm20F about 10 years ago. It was difficult removing because of limited access and yes, the bolts were somewhat corroded. Didn't need the torch to remove. Make sure to replace with new gasket; no sealant required. I wire brushed the bolts with a bench grinder brush and definitely applied anti seize compound on the threads in the event that I had to remove it in the future. Just to be safe, I torqued to Yanmar's specs. Believe it or not, Yanmar recommends changing these things every few years; I think mine was about 10 years old when I replaced it while I was doing a complete cooling system overhaul.