Now that cooler weather is here, I've been having more trouble starting my 2GM20 in my 28.5. In the Yanmar manual I don't see that it has glow plugs. I keep the boat in and sail till end of 1st week in dec. Up here in NH it's COLD!This is my first season with this boat. Any help out there???? Dan
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Bob E.
Same problem
My H30G with same engine spent the winter in the water on Lake Ontario, and when I took possession in April, it was very difficult to start. Symptoms were long cranking times, multiple restarts, a lot of smoke (both black and white smoke) and diesel fuel coming out the exhaust (very small quantity). Once the engine was warmed up, it ran fine. When the weather warmed up, the problem diminished, but the engine still smokes when first started. It does not smoke once warmed up. Also, the engine starts instantly if it's been run previously in the same day. I've measured boat speed versus RPM (using GPS for accuracy) and found that the engine seems to be putting out the rated horsepower. The boat makes 7 knots at 3250 RPM with the stock 15x12 2-blade prop. From reading posts on this site all summer, I've picked up the following tips: (1) don't crank for more than 30 seconds, and give it a rest between attempts, so the starter doesn't overheat; (2) if you're going to have to crank it for a while, don't open the sea water seacock. If you do, too much water can accumulate in the muffler, and cause back pressure on the exhaust or even back up water into the cyliners. Open the seacock as soon as the engine is running. I've looked in the Yanmar manual, and the 2GM20F does not have glow plugs. However, if you open the throttle all the way, the injector timing is supposed to be retarded to aid cold starting. One thing I'm going to try next spring is to crank the engine briefly with the compression levers open, then try to start it. This should get moving parts lubricated and maybe get some extra fuel into the cylinders. I have no idea if this will help --just grasping at straws. From many other posts and talking to a mechanic, there are hundreds of nasty things that can cause hard starting, from poor compression, bad injectors, cracked O-rings, bad fuel, etc., etc. I have removed the mixing elbow and found that it is clear, so that common diesel problem is not the problem here. If anyone has any suggestions, they would be appreciated. Bob England
My H30G with same engine spent the winter in the water on Lake Ontario, and when I took possession in April, it was very difficult to start. Symptoms were long cranking times, multiple restarts, a lot of smoke (both black and white smoke) and diesel fuel coming out the exhaust (very small quantity). Once the engine was warmed up, it ran fine. When the weather warmed up, the problem diminished, but the engine still smokes when first started. It does not smoke once warmed up. Also, the engine starts instantly if it's been run previously in the same day. I've measured boat speed versus RPM (using GPS for accuracy) and found that the engine seems to be putting out the rated horsepower. The boat makes 7 knots at 3250 RPM with the stock 15x12 2-blade prop. From reading posts on this site all summer, I've picked up the following tips: (1) don't crank for more than 30 seconds, and give it a rest between attempts, so the starter doesn't overheat; (2) if you're going to have to crank it for a while, don't open the sea water seacock. If you do, too much water can accumulate in the muffler, and cause back pressure on the exhaust or even back up water into the cyliners. Open the seacock as soon as the engine is running. I've looked in the Yanmar manual, and the 2GM20F does not have glow plugs. However, if you open the throttle all the way, the injector timing is supposed to be retarded to aid cold starting. One thing I'm going to try next spring is to crank the engine briefly with the compression levers open, then try to start it. This should get moving parts lubricated and maybe get some extra fuel into the cylinders. I have no idea if this will help --just grasping at straws. From many other posts and talking to a mechanic, there are hundreds of nasty things that can cause hard starting, from poor compression, bad injectors, cracked O-rings, bad fuel, etc., etc. I have removed the mixing elbow and found that it is clear, so that common diesel problem is not the problem here. If anyone has any suggestions, they would be appreciated. Bob England
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tom cooper
hard cold start
Next time try buying a spay can of ether give a small sqirt in the air in take. Then crank. This is how most trucks and buses are started in cold weather,
Next time try buying a spay can of ether give a small sqirt in the air in take. Then crank. This is how most trucks and buses are started in cold weather,
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Stephen Ostrander
gentlemen start your engines!
In my former boat (h28.5) the 2GM20 started flawlessly, hot or cold. Now I have a 33.5 with 2GM20 and I have exactly the same problems that Bob E. described. A Yanmar rep suggested that I open the throttle 1/2-3/4 when I cranked it, and it starts right up now. I still get the puff of smoke and a little unburned fuel blowing out the exhaust, but at least it starts. I wish I could swap the engine back to my dependable 28.5!(Important note: Be sure to keep one hand on the throttle so you can back it down right away when you hear it catch fire, don't ever high rev a cold engine.)
In my former boat (h28.5) the 2GM20 started flawlessly, hot or cold. Now I have a 33.5 with 2GM20 and I have exactly the same problems that Bob E. described. A Yanmar rep suggested that I open the throttle 1/2-3/4 when I cranked it, and it starts right up now. I still get the puff of smoke and a little unburned fuel blowing out the exhaust, but at least it starts. I wish I could swap the engine back to my dependable 28.5!(Important note: Be sure to keep one hand on the throttle so you can back it down right away when you hear it catch fire, don't ever high rev a cold engine.)
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John
Couple more items...
Two things not previously mentioned. Valve clearance: Proper valve clearance (0.0078 ins) will help the engine start easier. If the engine is a few years old it is very likely the cleanance needs adjusting. Battery cables: Change out the old O.E.M. (Original Equipment Manufacturer) cables and install marine grade "00" cables with marine grade connectors and heat shrink tubing. Remember the length of run includes both the positive and negative cables. Additionally, the first post mentioned about keeping the seacock closed for long-winded starts - been there, done that. Had water comming out the air cleaner! Coupled with the above problem, I also opened the compression release levers as the battery was getting low and this apparently also may have helped suck water in - don't know the mechanics of how this could happen but I've never done it again. After a spirited discussion with a few mechanical engineers I work with I have never used starter fluid. Diesels have much higher compression than gas engines. In fact, I won't even use starter fluid on my lawn mower - realize everybody has an opinion on this subject.
Two things not previously mentioned. Valve clearance: Proper valve clearance (0.0078 ins) will help the engine start easier. If the engine is a few years old it is very likely the cleanance needs adjusting. Battery cables: Change out the old O.E.M. (Original Equipment Manufacturer) cables and install marine grade "00" cables with marine grade connectors and heat shrink tubing. Remember the length of run includes both the positive and negative cables. Additionally, the first post mentioned about keeping the seacock closed for long-winded starts - been there, done that. Had water comming out the air cleaner! Coupled with the above problem, I also opened the compression release levers as the battery was getting low and this apparently also may have helped suck water in - don't know the mechanics of how this could happen but I've never done it again. After a spirited discussion with a few mechanical engineers I work with I have never used starter fluid. Diesels have much higher compression than gas engines. In fact, I won't even use starter fluid on my lawn mower - realize everybody has an opinion on this subject.
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Sam Lust
Ether
Ether can be VERY harmful to any engine, especialy a diesel. If too much is applied, particularly while cranking, the resultant POWERFUL explosion can blow the piston rings down the piston. I think the picture paints itself.
Ether can be VERY harmful to any engine, especialy a diesel. If too much is applied, particularly while cranking, the resultant POWERFUL explosion can blow the piston rings down the piston. I think the picture paints itself.
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Thorp Thomas
Use WD 40
Dan, That always was a cold blooded engine. I used to give it a shot of WD 40 up the air breather while I energized the starter solenoid. Whal-la.... But... Be careful (since there are no throttle plates) too much and she'll over-rev and self-destruct before your eyes....
Dan, That always was a cold blooded engine. I used to give it a shot of WD 40 up the air breather while I energized the starter solenoid. Whal-la.... But... Be careful (since there are no throttle plates) too much and she'll over-rev and self-destruct before your eyes....
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Sam Lust
Sounds good
What A great idea! Being a kerosene or similar base with light oil added WD-40, or for that matter CRC 656 should be very good for hard cold starting, Kero base is volatile yet slower burning than ether, (IE: safer) and even provides a little top lube for starting. My hat's off to you. If my 2 GM ever gets cranky I'm going to try this one.
What A great idea! Being a kerosene or similar base with light oil added WD-40, or for that matter CRC 656 should be very good for hard cold starting, Kero base is volatile yet slower burning than ether, (IE: safer) and even provides a little top lube for starting. My hat's off to you. If my 2 GM ever gets cranky I'm going to try this one.
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John
Use Automotive Battery for Cranking
Thought of another help for better starting - use an automotive type battery for cranking (vice deep cycle) for the starting battery. An automotive batery will crank the engine noticeably faster and therefore should get it started easier. In my previous post I mentioned about installing 00 wiring - didn't mean this to mean all the way to the starter motor - just to the battery switch. I used a #2 for the starter motor and engine ground which is still pleanty heavy. The starter cable should be flexible to accommodate the vibration of the engine.
Thought of another help for better starting - use an automotive type battery for cranking (vice deep cycle) for the starting battery. An automotive batery will crank the engine noticeably faster and therefore should get it started easier. In my previous post I mentioned about installing 00 wiring - didn't mean this to mean all the way to the starter motor - just to the battery switch. I used a #2 for the starter motor and engine ground which is still pleanty heavy. The starter cable should be flexible to accommodate the vibration of the engine.
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Dan Saliga
Thanks
Went out in the cold yesterday and tried opening the throttle 3/4 and she started right away. Will get some WD-40 just in case. Thanks to all for the help, Dan
Went out in the cold yesterday and tried opening the throttle 3/4 and she started right away. Will get some WD-40 just in case. Thanks to all for the help, Dan
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Jay Hill
Pre-warmed Engine works well too
Just one more little input that works for me. If you have shore power attached, you can place(or install permanently with a switch) a drop light with a 40-60 watt bulb in the engine compartment. This light creates enough heat to keep the entire boat above freezing temperature (except for severe storms or lengthy winters) and keeps the engine warm enough to crank right up without WD40, ether, or even 3/4 throttle. Then again, the colder it is outside (sub zero for weeks on end) the more throttle must be used. One argument against the lightbulb is a safety hazard in the event the bulb cracks, bursts, or is broken. Installing the light in a protective cage prevents accidental breakage when people and tools are in the engine compartment and after several years, I've never had a buld crack or burst under usage. Regards, Jay Hill
Just one more little input that works for me. If you have shore power attached, you can place(or install permanently with a switch) a drop light with a 40-60 watt bulb in the engine compartment. This light creates enough heat to keep the entire boat above freezing temperature (except for severe storms or lengthy winters) and keeps the engine warm enough to crank right up without WD40, ether, or even 3/4 throttle. Then again, the colder it is outside (sub zero for weeks on end) the more throttle must be used. One argument against the lightbulb is a safety hazard in the event the bulb cracks, bursts, or is broken. Installing the light in a protective cage prevents accidental breakage when people and tools are in the engine compartment and after several years, I've never had a buld crack or burst under usage. Regards, Jay Hill
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