Yanmar 2GM is stuck
- Thread starter lyleblain
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I have someone you might interest you, gentllemen name is Terry Clarke, he work on his own. He not in Clearwater but in St Petersburg which is close by for you. He work on all marine engine (westerbeke, universal, yanmar, perkins). I would recommend him highly. He is little expensive, honest, and very thorough in his work.
Terry Clarke Marine Service L L C
Phone 727-894-4221
I hope this help you out a lot with tyour engine problems.
Terry Clarke Marine Service L L C
Phone 727-894-4221
I hope this help you out a lot with tyour engine problems.
A good company is Yacht Power Products Inc
1510 1st Avenue North, St. Petersburg, FL
(727) 822-2628 () You might also call
Mastry Engine Center
Toll Free: 1-800-545-4574
Local: 727-522-9471
2801 Anvil Street North
St. Petersburg, Florida 33710
The Yanmar Distributer for a mechanic reference.
1510 1st Avenue North, St. Petersburg, FL
(727) 822-2628 () You might also call
Mastry Engine Center
Toll Free: 1-800-545-4574
Local: 727-522-9471
2801 Anvil Street North
St. Petersburg, Florida 33710
The Yanmar Distributer for a mechanic reference.
Probably "hydrolocked" meaning you got raw ocean water into a cylinder. Water is not compressible... This most often happens from cranking the engine too much after fuel bleeding or a hard start and leaving the seacock open while doing so... Can also be caused by a bad siphon break..
Has not run in a year. I discovered the problem about six months ago. Do to some of life's bigger problems, I haven't been able to deal with it until now. Has oil. No water in the oil. I opened both compression release levers, but couldn't rotate the engine in either direction by hand. Tried gently using a large socket and breaker bar but I didn't want to spoil the threads.
Suggest you get an 'independent' mechanic who has no interest burden to REPLACE and/or REPOWER.
Seek out a mechanic who can 'unfreeze' a bound-up engine. The 'best' place to find such an 'artist' will probably be visiting your local independent 'automotive MACHINE shop' ... and if the shop owner cant do it, he will probably recommend one who can while engine is still in the boat. A machine shop will want the engine out of the boat.
Set a $$$ budget limit of how much you want to spend on this as the probability to 'unfreeze' will be only 50% ... and you dont want to run up a large bill and still have a 'frozen' engine.
Such an 'artist' will typically 'soak' the combustion chambers with 'penetrating', etc. oils and only when the piston rings 'break free' with slight pressure on the crankshaft will he 'turn' the engine ... but will again do periodic 'soaks', etc. etc. to remove the RUST and to 're-polish' the cylinder walls and piston ring grooves ... and valve stems. .... Only when the engine is again 'spinning' under its own power can you determine how much residual DAMAGE was done by the rusting - its can be an expensive 'gamble' if you hire someone to do this.
What should NOT be done is to FORCE the engine to turn over at this point as you will inevitably break the piston rings.
This 'oil and soak', etc. method, many times will totally free an engine and without needing to remove or unbolt 'anything' (except the injectors).
Plan on a total replacement or 'rebuild' of this engine for a 'worst case' scenario as a year is a 'bit long' to 'unfreeze' stuck engine, especially if it was salt water that did the damage.
If you want to 'try' to unfreeze this engine yourself and you have the mechanical ability, lemme know by PM and Ill respond with written up info.
Ive also posted here on SBO in the past of how to 'save' a rust *frozen engine* ... youll have to do the SBO search.
Seek out a mechanic who can 'unfreeze' a bound-up engine. The 'best' place to find such an 'artist' will probably be visiting your local independent 'automotive MACHINE shop' ... and if the shop owner cant do it, he will probably recommend one who can while engine is still in the boat. A machine shop will want the engine out of the boat.
Set a $$$ budget limit of how much you want to spend on this as the probability to 'unfreeze' will be only 50% ... and you dont want to run up a large bill and still have a 'frozen' engine.
Such an 'artist' will typically 'soak' the combustion chambers with 'penetrating', etc. oils and only when the piston rings 'break free' with slight pressure on the crankshaft will he 'turn' the engine ... but will again do periodic 'soaks', etc. etc. to remove the RUST and to 're-polish' the cylinder walls and piston ring grooves ... and valve stems. .... Only when the engine is again 'spinning' under its own power can you determine how much residual DAMAGE was done by the rusting - its can be an expensive 'gamble' if you hire someone to do this.
What should NOT be done is to FORCE the engine to turn over at this point as you will inevitably break the piston rings.
This 'oil and soak', etc. method, many times will totally free an engine and without needing to remove or unbolt 'anything' (except the injectors).
Plan on a total replacement or 'rebuild' of this engine for a 'worst case' scenario as a year is a 'bit long' to 'unfreeze' stuck engine, especially if it was salt water that did the damage.
If you want to 'try' to unfreeze this engine yourself and you have the mechanical ability, lemme know by PM and Ill respond with written up info.
Ive also posted here on SBO in the past of how to 'save' a rust *frozen engine* ... youll have to do the SBO search.
I would not worry about hurting the threads on the crank bolt unless you are using a piece of pipe on the ratchet. Don't go "hulk" on the bolt.
Turning in the opposit direction, counter clock wise facing the front of the engine, will just loosen the bolt.
Sound like the rings are rusted to the cyl wall.
I would absolutely check the mixing elbow for failure.
I would remove the valve cover to see if the rocker arms and other material has rust forming on it.
I would remove the nozzles (injectors) and spray wd40 or liquid wrench in each cylinder and let it sit for a few days.
Try and turn (Bump) the engine in both directions. Come back and if it does not turn, spray more in and repeat.
When it breaks loose, poor a little engine oil in each cyl and turn it by hand.
Put rags over the nozzle holes and spin the engine with the starter.
Find the cause (mixing elbow is the only cause I can think of other than water getting in the intake somehow).
Change oil and run the engine.
It is a no loose situation.
Other route is to pull the cyl head, soak the pistons, and bump them with a hammer handle while trying to turn the crank.
It is not a fore gone conclusion that the engine is ruined.
HOWEVER, if the mixing elbow has failed, and water has been getting in the cyl for some time, it will destroy the top rod bearing (can't compress water) on the back (Lowest point) cyl.
Turning in the opposit direction, counter clock wise facing the front of the engine, will just loosen the bolt.
Sound like the rings are rusted to the cyl wall.
I would absolutely check the mixing elbow for failure.
I would remove the valve cover to see if the rocker arms and other material has rust forming on it.
I would remove the nozzles (injectors) and spray wd40 or liquid wrench in each cylinder and let it sit for a few days.
Try and turn (Bump) the engine in both directions. Come back and if it does not turn, spray more in and repeat.
When it breaks loose, poor a little engine oil in each cyl and turn it by hand.
Put rags over the nozzle holes and spin the engine with the starter.
Find the cause (mixing elbow is the only cause I can think of other than water getting in the intake somehow).
Change oil and run the engine.
It is a no loose situation.
Other route is to pull the cyl head, soak the pistons, and bump them with a hammer handle while trying to turn the crank.
It is not a fore gone conclusion that the engine is ruined.
HOWEVER, if the mixing elbow has failed, and water has been getting in the cyl for some time, it will destroy the top rod bearing (can't compress water) on the back (Lowest point) cyl.
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