YANMAR 1GM8hp

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Apr 19, 2013
8
Bayfield 25 Little Current, CN
1.) I have a Yanmar 1GH 8hp that has low compression but the valves are working fine (no water in the fuel). Has anyone had this problem?
2.) Does anyone have a used 1GH 8hp Yanmar in working order for sale?
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,151
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Pull the valve cover and torque the four head bolts in a cross pattern to 54 ft lbs.. then make sure the valve clearance is around .008" .. check to make sure the decompression peg is fully out of the way. Make sure the injector nuts are tight.. even torque to 15 ft lbs..Those are a longshot, but may get it cranked.. If the rings are a bit gooky, running it a bit.. hard after it warms up for 10 minutes or so.. may get things to be a bit better.. Good luck
 
May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
I think you would have much bigger issues if the block were cracked. Its a very simple engine. If the fixes Kloudie suggested dont fix it, you can do some further diagnosis to determine what is wrong. If its just poor compression due to worn rings, you can remove the plate on the backside to reach the rod bolts, remove the head, and remove the piston and liner. All the parts are readily available. A new piston and liner, with new rod bearings and rings, and the bottom end should be as new. Get the head redone (valve job) and for all practical purpose youll have a new engine.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,151
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Nope, no flags but I'd have to put hands on to feel and listen.. If you aren't comfortable with messing with this, find a friend who is good (not just says he is good, he actually should be good) with engines. This one looks pretty easy to access and the stuff I talked about can happen by undoing that one lonesome nut in the middle of the valve cover, just to the left center of the picture. Get a Yanmar mechanic to look at it otherwise.. BE sure to pull out the fuel cutoff if you are turning the engine over.. The little lever sticking out of the cover on the left is the decompression lever. When it is rotated, it holds open one of the valves and keeps the engine from having compression.
 
Apr 19, 2013
8
Bayfield 25 Little Current, CN
Assuming that you have your hand on the engine as you turn her over, what sort of sounds and feeling are you possible to detect?
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,151
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Listen for the escaping gas as you roll into a compression stroke.. If you hear it hissing more in the intake or exhaust, it is a too tight valve or a valve with a burned seat.. If the noise is more in the crankcase, rings .. pull the valve cover and roll the engine slowly until one valve is as far down as it will go.if you go too far, back the crank up to get to the place where the valve is fully down but has not started back up. . feel the other valve rocker arm to be sure the pushrod is loose.. do that with the other valve as well .. Check with a feeler gauge to see 8 thousandths clearance (top of valve to rocker arm) with the opposite valve fully open.. look for broken valve springs.. look for too much slack in the rocker arm bushings. At a point about half way between top and bottom center, oscillate the crank left and right and feel for too much play .. Remember that any fuel in the injector can cause the engine to pop over so keep your human parts out of harms way..
Has the compression been measured? does the engine not run? does it have fresh diesel and has it been correctly bled so that all the air is out and only good diesel is at the injector?
 
Apr 19, 2013
8
Bayfield 25 Little Current, CN
Great information, to my knowledge they used the old fuel in the system, don't know if they bled the air and they only said that the compression was low and it wouldn't start.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,524
-na -NA Anywhere USA
send me an email and I will put you in touch with a good darn mechanic who knows the engine. Although it is referred to as an 8 hp actually it is a 7.8 hp. engine.

crazy dave condon
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,370
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I just removed my 1GM

No red flags from the photo of yours, but what was it that led to the non-starting issue? Did you go from running well to not starting in a heartbeat or did this progress over time?

I removed mine to re-power for various reasons, among them, I would need to spend money on repair for what I think is worn-ring issues. Other than some power decrease and a little gray smoke, my engine runs pretty well. I think my issues were related to being over-propped for years and never pushing the RPMs above 2500 when motoring.

So mine is now on the market. I had planned on doing repairs for fun and experience, but I don't really need the project. I left a PM if you are interested. There is another fellow who is interested in my tranny, so we may all be in luck if we work something out.
 

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May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
I always chuckle whenever someone talks about guys who are good with engines. When I was 16 I bought an MGB and it ran like crap. I was young and still wasnt real up on carbs and was afraid to mess with it. I drove from shop to shop, seeing those signs outside that read "MECHANIC ON DUTY". Every darn one took one look and said they didnt work on multiple carbs or foreign cars.

I finally gave up and bought some books and figured it out myself, learning a great deal in the process which allowed me to understand how to tune not just two, but three, four and even six carbs on some rather exotic engines. But really, it was incredibly satisfying to have that car running like a Swiss watch after only an hour messing with it, when mechanics [supposed] more than twice my age had no clue.

In another life I had a short love affair with SAAB 99's. I always took great pleasure in taking one to some clown who said he was a mechanic and watching him try to open the hood. When I showed him how to do it, and that big ol clamshell swung "forward", exposing a backwards mounted slant four with the clutch at the front and the belts at the back, it was quite entertaining to hear them say "WTF" and start stuttering as to how they didnt have a clue. HINT: Thats not a mechanic.

A Mechanic should have an open mind and a good general basic understanding of mechanical principles and engine operating principles in general. This stuff isnt rocket science. Its all quite easily found online and at libraries, if one would just take some time to study. As you learn, you slowly find that all engines all share the same basic principles. Yes, there are design differences and certain mechanical idiosyncrasies, and certain specific measurements that are required, but thats where service manuals come in. Good mechanics ALWAYS refer to manuals and follow them religiously, poor ones wouldnt pick one up if their (or yours) life depended on it.
 
May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
I removed mine to re-power for various reasons, among them, I would need to spend money on repair for what I think is worn-ring issues. Other than some power decrease and a little gray smoke, my engine runs pretty well. I think my issues were related to being over-propped for years and never pushing the RPMs above 2500 when motoring..
Did you ever run a compression test on it? If I were buying an engine, unless it was so cheap it was parts/core price, I would need to see a compression test. If it passes, fine. If not, the next step is a leak down test to determine the cause.

Running overpropped is very hard on an engine. Cylinder pressures run much higher than they should and can lead to accelerated wear and becomes especially hard on main bearings as rpms are pulled down.
 
Sep 25, 2008
1,096
CS 30 Toronto
I loved to tune / sync those SU down draft carbs. It was really funny trying to get the mechanic to open up the hood on a British Trimph and Jag E type.

BTW, some sailing club has diesel courses. Well worth it if you haven't tinker with machine before.
 
Apr 19, 2013
8
Bayfield 25 Little Current, CN
thank you for your note. the engine is in a boat i bought as is. Hope to have it back home in a couple of weeks to test.
 
May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
It was really funny trying to get the mechanic to open up the hood on a British Trimph and Jag E type.
Hey, I found an Austin Healy Sprite with a Sebring bonnet (hood) sitting back in the weeds behind a building, locally. Its actually got solid floors left, lol But guess whats sitting next to it? An original Sunbeam Tiger V-8 (sans floors). I'm thinking I need to go have another visit, whadayathink?
 
May 24, 2004
7,202
CC 30 South Florida
Check the valve lash clearance like Kloudie suggests. With the engine running remove the oil filler plug and place the palm of your hand about 2 inches above the opening. You should feel a little, almost imperceptible back pressure at idle. If the rings are worn that back pressure will feel more like a thud against your hand. No easy fix for this other than a ring job but some have been able to extend the working life of a tired engine by switching to a thicker oil or the use of oil additives. A thicker oil improves rings seal and thus compression. If on the other hand you find no excesive back pressure the leak will likely be in the valves. Check for overtitightened valves that don't close or it could be burned deposits on the valve seats. This would require removing the cylinder head and likely a valve job where the seats are recut, new valve guides installed, checking the springs tension and grinding the valves. A new head gasket would be installed and the connecting bolts properly torqued. The 1 GM is a tough little engine and easy to work on.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Most Yanmars are usually good for 10000 hours run time. Rust on the 'outside' is totally meaningless ... its whats inside that counts.

Suggest you find an *independent* diesel mechanic who can do an *air pressure 'leak down test'* to ascertain exactly what is causing the 'low compression' .... stuck piston ring, an exhaust valve that isnt full closing, blown head gasket, etc. .... all fairly 'simple' stuff that doesnt require pulling an engine apart and to be 95% sure of what is wrong. Make your decision based on an air pressure LEAK DOWN TEST, not a compression test.
Even with a worst case scenario with such a small engine and if the block isnt cracked, they are EASILY RE-BUILDABLE ... especially for an independent mechanic or 'local automotive engine re-builder / machine shop' who 'needs' the work.
 
May 27, 2012
1,152
Oday 222 Beaver Lake, Arkansas
I would be careful feeling for blowby at the dip stick or fill cap on a one banger with the idea it will tell you much. A single cylinder engine has enormous changes in internal crankcase volume as the piston goes up and down. The breather system is designed to slow it down and stabilize it but removing the cap can defeat the purpose.

A far more exacting way to determine blowby is the leakdown test as Rich just described. Other signs would be significant oil leaks.

That doesn't mean it it needs overhaul though. Often a soak of the rings in MMO, followed by a couple oil changes and some hard running after a full tune up can bring a motor back to life. Again, that is where a leakdown test can offer a great deal of information, in telling you exactly where the leakage is (valve or rings).
 
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