wish list

[Witzend]

Well the wish list grows.
Our 310 is not very well endowed in electronics.
Just ST Depth and Speed in a standard 3 banger pod (center position blank), no wind, or auto pilot. There also is Garmin 182C with built in antenna mounted on a piece of wood.
http://www.anchorexpress.com seems to have the best prices.
There is currently a $150 mail-in rebate on the C70 from Raymarine.
I would like to add the following:
Please comment.

ITEM DESCRIPTION

QTY

EACH

TOTAL

RAYMARINE S1 Wheel Pilot Autopilot System - E12180

$692.00​

$692.00 ​

RAYMARINE ST60 Plus Wind Vane System with short arm wind vane transducer - A22012-P

$726.77​

$726.77 ​

RAYMARINE C70 6.5 inch Multifunction Navigation Display - E02018

$985.00​

$985.00 ​

NAVPOD GP1041 Grand Prix Series Radar / Chartplotter NavPod Pre-cut for Raymarine 6 inch C70 and one ST60

$265.99​

$265.99 ​

RAYMARINE Raystar 125 12 Channel Satellite Differential GPS sensor - E32042

$257.04​

$257.04 ​

RAYMARINE D284 1M SeaTalk Cable

$27.99​

$27.99 ​

NAVIONICS XL9 Gold Chart - East Coast - SD Card - SD/16XG

$189.99​

$189.99 ​

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Shipping Rates: (change my address)PLEASE SELECTUPS/FedEx Ground $9.99UPS/FedEx Next Business Day $25.99United States, MD, 20879

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Total: ​

$3,154.77

 

[rpwillia]

My pick/experience

Witzend, Like your thinking, but you don't need to jump in all at once.

- I just bought an S1 Autopilot; still planning, but they are a great deal right now. $692 is a great deal.
- I have the ST60+ Wind Vane System; like it and use it a lot. Price is OK
- C70 fairly pricey and nice, but there are a lot of cheaper and just as capable chartplotters out there. I just got a Humminbird 785c2. It came with the GPS receiver for <250.
- You really will need a bigger Navpod that that listed. Have no idea what model I have but it accommodates 4 ST60 4" displays.
- Navionics cards are nice, but way way overpriced. They download this stuff from NOAA, add a few small things and charge a pretty penny. I would like one for my area, but it is probably cheaper to just use the standard and paper charts.

 

[Witzend]

Hey RP,
I took you advice and just ordered the S1, and the GP1040 Pod, usable face 17.5w x 7.5h, that should be large enough for a decent chart recorder and the S1 panel. For now I will mount the Garmin on top of the pod until I decide on a better chart/GPS display. I really want to get the st60 wind so I can use the S1 when close hauled, but I guess it can wait. I will check into the Humminbird.

 

[paulj]

Witzend
Put the S1 panel in the vacant space between your depth and speed ......that's where it belongs......and hooks up with seatalk cables if you want to relay to S1 comuter.

I wouldn't get the GP1040 pod ...should be used as a glovebox not for instrumentation things.

Look here for some optional ideas...

http://www.raymarine.co.uk/customer...ems/?assetdet=11574&esctl915345_assetdet=1419
paulj :troll:

 

[Witzend]

Hey Paulj,
Jeez you could watch the game on that thing, what is it? I have a 3 pod now, with only 2 positions used, eventually the st60 wind will go in the blank center pos. I would have some real concerns with your panel mount in a heavy weather situation. I also like unobstructed views which is why I don't like dodgers.
What is in the far right pos now, is that not the 6002 already?
Thanks for your advice.
Tom

 

[paulj]

"What is in the far right pos now, is that not the 6002 already?"

That is my existing ST 4000 Plus control head.


The auto pilot function did not work but I used it for +1 and +10 functions. It stopped completely working last year and I had Raymarine repair it...they had it for six weeks.
The cost was $575.00 plus tax....I could have bought a new one for that and the auto pilot function still did not work.
I tried four or five different Catalina Cocktails and still no results.

That is why Raymarine came out with S1 to fix all those old problems of the Raytheon ST4000 Plus wheel auto pilots.


paulj :troll:

 

[rpwillia]

Here is my old/current instrument set-up

Witzend, Here is what I have today. I am planning on moving the VHF remote mike and the clinometer off the pod so I can mount the autopilot control there. The Gramin GPSMap 176 mount on the top is also going to be removed and I am looking for a swing arm mount that I can mount to the pole somewhere and run the chartplotter cables out of the bottom. You can see what I am envisioning in the 2nd photo.

I saw a couple of people state where the instruments go. Is there any method to the madness? I do not like that my speed log and depth log are mounted next to each other, but after living with them so long it does not seem to matter.

Also in my prep for doing all this work, has anyone else noticed that the anti-theft screws on the back of the NavPod are kind of dumb? All they do is make crooks go get some extra tools in addition to the hex, star, flat and phillips tools they already have.

 

[paulj]

Note
I tried to pull the existing speed cable up thru port side stantion because the old unit was inop.
I could not move the cable up or down.
In fact I could not budge any of the cables.

Found out hours later that there was about 3 inches of solid silicone seal inside the port stantion tube and I could not remove it.
Also found about 1 inch of silicone seal in the hole going down to below.

Had to drill a hole thru deck in line with starboard stantion tube for any new wires.

Spent about four hours trying to remove silicone seal....before I came to my senses.


paulj :troll:

 

[rpwillia]

Your pain is my gain!

Paul, It is great seeing you go through all this pain so I don't have to. How did you figure out there was 3" of silicon in there? Is this standard (I am thinking of your other fun with the extra large pin on the wheel brake)? I am assuming you had to mark the pole, remove the whole thing and then drill. Ray

 

[Witzend]

Nice to have such involved contributors on this forum!! I'm sure I'm in for a bout of frustration dealing with installing the S1.
I'm giving this some more thought to my setup, I may ditch the ST60 Speed (GPS kinda makes it obsolete and the transduces get fouled up all the time), when I get the ST60+ wind and put the S1 up front and center. That way I will have the entire GP1040 pod for the Chart.
Changing the subject who has had time to go through the commissioning steps? I was looking through the manual and it looks rather involved and maybe finicky. Can anyone pipe in about how they changed the "dealer settings for variables such as Rudder Gain, Rudder Dampening, Counter Rudder, and Auto Trim. Seems like these setting are closely related and thus adjusting one may require changing another.
Jezz this dam thing will do your laundry if only they put a slot to put the quarters in!
Calibrating the compass may prove challenging for me as well when performing circles in a strong current, like I have on the Elk River.

 

[paulj]

Ray
I used a snake from below deck and going up thru existing wire hole tried to push it thru and was blocked.
Went up on deck and tried the snake down thru existing wire hole in the stanchion tube and was blocked.
I unscewed the stanchion to deck collar fitting and found the problem with the silicone.

If you have to drill another hole let me know and I tell you how I did it.

paulj :troll:

 

[paulj]

Witzend
I think your new arrangement of the gauges is top drawer idea.

paulj :troll:

 

[Witzend]

Hey Paulj, and RP, and anyone else that will read my ramblings,

Does your Flux Gate sound like a metal ball is loose inside when you tip it back and fourth?

Interesting that they would send a long SeaTalk cable with both ends molded, when the course computer has a terminal strip.

I also noticed that the ruder angle transducer is spring loaded from the end of the travel. This seems odd? It should be spring loaded from the center going both ways. Not sure what forces are involved, it may bias the wheel.

Also, looks like the GP1040 will take the C90w, and give me room on the side for other creative ideas like maybe the remote VHF but it going to be tight.

Here is my reasoning on the seatalk connectivity.
1) Connect the ST6002 directly to the Course Computer, that way it will reduce the chances the com will be disrupted by other failures in the chain.
2) Connect the ST60+ wind directly to the St6002 for the same reason.
Any input here?

 

[Witzend]

Never mind about the Flux Gate. I took the coves off and there is a brass cyclinder attached to a gimble. If you tip it too far, the extent of the travel of the gimble allows it to hit the cover.

 

[rpwillia]

I too noticed ...

Hey Paulj, and RP, and anyone else that will read my ramblings,

Does your Flux Gate sound like a metal ball is loose inside when you tip it back and fourth?

Interesting that they would send a long SeaTalk cable with both ends molded, when the course computer has a terminal strip.

I also noticed that the ruder angle transducer is spring loaded from the end of the travel. This seems odd? It should be spring loaded from the center going both ways. Not sure what forces are involved, it may bias the wheel.

Also, looks like the GP1040 will take the C90w, and give me room on the side for other creative ideas like maybe the remote VHF but it going to be tight.

Here is my reasoning on the seatalk connectivity.
1) Connect the ST6002 directly to the Course Computer, that way it will reduce the chances the com will be disrupted by other failures in the chain.
2) Connect the ST60+ wind directly to the St6002 for the same reason.
Any input here?

With the SeaTalk, I think that is a serial bus so where you connect things in may not matter all that much.

I can take the fluxgate out and look at it, but to this point all I have done is pull it out of the box look at it and put it back in.

I did notice the RPS is all the way to one side and it is springloaded all the way. That is weird as I did expect it to be centered with motion to either side. I was thinking that there would be a clue in the installation/calibration instructions.

You will like the remote for you VHF up there on the pod as that is one thing I really like.

I did read in the install instructions that the lengths of the cables factor in there somehow for timing and calibration and that it was not a good idea to cut or extend the cables unless you had to. I will know after this weekend when I scope out a friends 309. I am thinking I will mount the fluxgate under my sink like MaineSail suggested and the computer somewhere near the nav station. I am assuming that if the supplied cable is long enough to reach the motor that I am good. I will try and remember to get pictures and post. I don't think I will get around to the actual install until the weekend after next - that dumb day job thing is getting in the way.

 

[paulj]

Rudder Positon Sensor
Putting a small load on the linkage will take away all the slack in the linkage....providing very good readings.

Flux Gate
Manual said it's OK if it ratteles just don't use it as a musical instrument.

Cable Lengths
Good idea not alter existing cables...not cut in stone though.

ST 60
Count the number of wires coming out of unit.....

paulj :troll:

 

[rpwillia]

Did an RTFM ... Figured out the RPS

I also noticed that the ruder angle transducer is spring loaded from the end of the travel. This seems odd? It should be spring loaded from the center going both ways. Not sure what forces are involved, it may bias the wheel.

I read the manual tonight and then looked at the sensor. There are two vertical marks (more like clear lines) on the two pieces of the RPS. When you align them the RPS is at center.