Wiring new LED lights in salon/saloon headliner

[FasterHorses]

So, I have embarked on another project aboard Faster Horses which includes replacing the vinyl headliner with a wainscotting panel, and LED lights. I am looking for recommendations for wire connections for the circuit between the new headliner and the fiberglass deck. I have been looking at Wago levers and think that these may be the solution. I would like to have 2 rows (starboard and port) of 3 flush mounted puck lights wired to a dimmer switch, then to the panel via a fuse block. Any recommendation s would be appreciated,
Thanks

 

[dLj]

I've used the Wago connectors in several places on my boat - they have performed very well.

One thing that is really nice, is you can connect and disconnect without a problem. I had one set used for my propane tank connections to the logic panel in the kitchen - I'm so glad I did as I ended up having an electrical problem elsewhere in that system and this allowed me to both bypass that problem when I needed, and to trouble shoot the system until I found the problem. Then I simply hooked everything right back up and no problem.

dj

p.s. getting the polarity right for you LED lights, I would think these would be ideal!

 

[Hello Below]

I've used the Wago connectors in several places on my boat - they have performed very well.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Success stories aside, these look like fancy wire nuts which are not NMMA approved. I don't see where Wago connectors meet NMMA standards. I'm just saying - you need to be aware.

 

[dLj]

Success stories aside, these look like fancy wire nuts which are not NMMA approved. I don't see where Wago connectors meet NMMA standards. I'm just saying - you need to be aware.

I don't know what approvals they have, but it's my understanding that they are notably better than wire nuts.

I believe they are in a bit of a grey area right now as far as marine acceptance goes. But they were recommended to me originally by a very high end knowledgeable marine supplier. Now, they are not for use in wet areas like a bilge or exterior applications. But for interior use that is not exposed to water - they work very well. Seems the OPs application should work. IMHO

dj

 

[FasterHorses]

Success stories aside, these look like fancy wire nuts which are not NMMA approved. I don't see where Wago connectors meet NMMA standards. I'm just saying - you need to be aware.

Rich, Thank you for your insight and I appreciate your input…. Do you have an alternative that I could and should consider?

 

[Rich Stidger]

Rich, Thank you for your insight and I appreciate your input…. Do you have an alternative that I could and should consider?

Well I would use heat shrink butt connectors with tinned marine wire. But if you really need to be able to disconnect/reconnect then I would use bullet type connectors and use heat shrink tubing over them to seal out moisture.

 

[ggrizzard]

for heat shrink butt connectors or, if they have to be "removable",
use bullet connectors with heat shrink tubing. That way all you have to do
is slit and remove the heat shrink tubing and disconnect the wires.
Though I have to wonder how often you might need to disconnect that circuit.

 

[JBP-PA]

Here is what Practical Sailor says about WAGO connectors.

"The pullout strength of Wago connectors is only about 6 pounds. This is less than a wire nut and considerably less than that of other recommended connectors, but it still meets ABYC and UL requirements if used in a box with strain relief. They cannot be waterproofed and thus should only be used in dry locations."

Reliable Three-way Wire Connections - Practical Sailor

Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.

www.practical-sailor.com

(Probably paywall)

 

[thinwater]

Here is what Practical Sailor says about WAGO connectors.

"The pullout strength of Wago connectors is only about 6 pounds. This is less than a wire nut and considerably less than that of other recommended connectors, but it still meets ABYC and UL requirements if used in a box with strain relief. They cannot be waterproofed and thus should only be used in dry locations."

Reliable Three-way Wire Connections - Practical Sailor

Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.

www.practical-sailor.com

(Probably paywall)

The thing about Wagos is that like wire nuts, they should only be used inside enclosures. Use inside enclosures, with strain relief, they are very dependable, very reliable, and very flexible. But they are not suitable for some of the locations where screw-type terminal blocks and splices are acceptable. They are not waterproof and they have limited pull-out strength. In fact, they have been documented to pull apart inside boxes, if they are crammed too tightly and the levers are snagged open (it can happen--some tape the handles down).

I like them, I use them, but only where they are appropriate. In this case, without a box, it will not be an approved use, to my understanding. But I don't quite understand the project, so the OP will have to evaluate that statement. If they can possibly pull loose under the liner, this is a job for splices (I had a fire off-shore when a PO did something similar, and it pulled apart behind a headliner--fire offshore is not cool, since there is no where to go).

 

[Justin_NSA]

But if you really need to be able to disconnect/reconnect then I would use bullet type connectors and use heat shrink tubing over them to seal out moisture.

And if you reverse the male and female ends of the 2 wire leads, you will never mix up the polarity

 

[JBP-PA]

The thing about Wagos is that like wire nuts, they should only be used inside enclosures. Use inside enclosures, with strain relief, they are very dependable, very reliable, and very flexible. But they are not suitable for some of the locations where screw-type terminal blocks and splices are acceptable. They are not waterproof and they have limited pull-out strength. In fact, they have been documented to pull apart inside boxes, if they are crammed too tightly and the levers are snagged open (it can happen--some tape the handles down).

I like them, I use them, but only where they are appropriate. In this case, without a box, it will not be an approved use, to my understanding. But I don't quite understand the project, so the OP will have to evaluate that statement. If they can possibly pull loose under the liner, this is a job for splices (I had a fire off-shore when a PO did something similar, and it pulled apart behind a headliner--fire offshore is not cool, since there is no where to go).

Yep, that is exactly what Practical Sailor said.

 

[BAD ORCA]

you can put a piece of heatshrink over Wago nuts with a bit of dialectric grease over the open ends of the connectors to make them less likely to open or get corroded. I spliced butt connectors when i redid my wiring. This was before i discovered Wago nuts. If i ever do it again, i'm going to use Wago connectors. I have used them in a few places aboard the boat and have been very happy with them. I could have done all my lighting in 1/10th the time had i used them when re-doing my lighting.

That being said, I would not use them in areas where any wire strain was possible and i do put a big piece of heatshink over them. I like them a lot but they certainly are no replacement for a crimped on terminal. For LED lighting, i think this is a perfect application for them.

 

[jssailem]

You will install these in a "hidden" space where you can hide extra wire. Go with heat-shrink butt connectors. Provide a little slack instead of installing "just enough" wire that stretches between two ends. Enough slack (should you need it) to clip out the inch of the butt connecter and then reattach the cables.

 

[Hello Below]

For LED lighting, i think this is a perfect application for them.

 

[LloydB]

Wire that is carrying signals to another place even if it is not spliced together to make it longer, should not be strained anywhere that it could be pulled apart. Nor should it touch against something that could expose the conductor for that matter.