Wiring Guidance

[wufibugs]

Rather than track down a replacement for my broken 2 pole yanmar ignition switch that allows removal of the key in the on position [a necessity given where Hunter located the ignition and key], I am thinking of using a lever type 2 pole ignition switch on the panel in the cockpit, retaining the push button starter. I would put a two pole keyed ignition switch on the control panel in the cabin wired to an independent solenoid [to eliminate the potential for hard starting, though I do not have that problem now].

I have tried to think this through, but a quick wiring schematic would help a great deal.

 

[Bill Roosa]

Hey wufibugs
It is pretty simple to do what you are considering. Just need to power the switch and then connect the instriments, fuel pump (if electrical FP is installed), panel lights, start push button etc power supplies to the other pole. Not sure why you are entertaining a double pole though. all the stuff is either on or off. Normally an ignition switch would need double poles if you wanted to turn on the accecories but not the ignition. since you don't have an ignition circuit I'm thinking you don't need a second pole. there is a school of thought that when you turn on the starter you should turn off things like instriments to keep any starter induced electrical spikes out but a double pole will not accomplish that either. you need a, well, ignition switch to do that. It has two switchs inside that do that for you when you turn to start. But since you are going with the push button I'me thinking Hunter did not see the need to isolate the electronics from the starter in this case. Be sure switch is rated for the total amp draw of course.
So power the switch, then power the everything else off the other pole of the switch to include the start button.
As for the solenoid, I'd recommend a different solution that actually fixes the problem rather than treat the symptoms. The problem has always been too many connectors between the battery-panel-starter-battery. I counted 12 connections on my 40.5. there are two ways to fix it, replace the wire with a compleatly new and dedicated one from panel to starter (removes 7 connections on my boat) or sirgically remove the connectors with a pair of clipers and re-connect with crimp/solder/heatshrink. I went the second route and got an automagical improvement in my instriment readings. the oil pressure went up, the temp came down, and the tack stopped being finiky.
FWIW

 

[wufibugs]

Actually, I would have been fine with a 3 pole starter switch that killed accessories when turned to start, but I could not find one that allowed the key to be removed in the "on" position. Having the key stiicking out at foot level where Hunter put the ignition probably explains why my ignition switch is broken. Maybe 2 lever switches is the answer, one for acc and one for the starter circuit.
As for the solenoid issue, please excuse my ignorance, but I'm not sure which connection you are referring. You wrote, "dedicated one from panel to starter". By panel, I assume you mean the control panel in the cabin. Where on the panel do you mean? You suggested "remove the connectors with a pair of clipers and re-connect with crimp/solder/heatshrink". Where did you reconnect them? I really do appreciate the advice Bill, and wish I were a little more familiar with the wiring you refer to.

 

[Steve Dion]

Why not just replace your existing switch? It is $30 and you will be done!

 

[wufibugs]

From where, Steve?

 

[Calif. Ted]

I usually get mine from Orange Engine parts but the cole-hersee switchs are pretty widely available, they sell them on this site even, I just use a 2 position switch on my Yanmar.
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/cat.php?51414/Ignition+Switches
Or if you wish to eliminate the key:
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/92/M-497/

 

[wufibugs]

Looking at the ones on this website, the only two position switch I see is S-53235, but I don't think you can remove the key when it is in the on position. I will call Orange Engine to see if they have one. I believe Torresson has the original Yanmar switch, but they don't sell out here. Would be nice if we had a supplier with as large an inventory and decent prices as Torresson.

 

[Steve C.]

My 78 h30 had a broken key when I got it. I replaced the ing switch with a non removable key and broke that key off the first time I took the boat out. The panel is right next to the helm by my feet. I realized right away why the key was broken. I have thought of going to a toggle and push button start, but I am thinking a toggle ing would be to easy to hit with my foot while the engine is running cutting power to the alt and burning it up.

 

[SailingHarry]

While the gist of this thread makes sense, there has been a confusing misuse of terms. Just to clear it up:

The term POLE in a switch refers to what are essentially independent switches that work in concert. On a typical small toggle switch, it is the number of columns of contacts, usually one or two, but 3 is not uncommon.

The term THROW is probably what you are really meaning to refer to, and it refers to the number of positions. A common light switch is a 1-throw switch. The typical bilge pump switch is a 2-throw switch, connecting the hot center wire to either the "on" or the "manual" positions (actually, the bilge pump would be a 2T-center off switch, with a note that the "manual" is momentary-contact). To get more than 2 throws usually requires a rotary switch, as in an ignition switch. An ingnition swtich also gets harder to classify, as it gets more complex, adding and subtracting connections as it rotates.

For clarification, switches are listed xPyT. A simple light switch is 1P1T. The blige pump is 1P2T. A switch to allow a speaker (2 wires) to connect to two different sources (like a VHF and a Stereo) would be 2P2T, or 3P2T to do two speakers with a common ground.

Hope this helps,

Harry

 

[Stu Jackson]

Why not keep it simple? Ask yourself: What is the key switch there for?

Security? If that's the case, move the security point either to your hatchboards lock, your main power switch or elsewhere. You don't really need that key switch at all. Replace it with a simple short armed toggle switch.

 

[wufibugs]

Whiich is exactly where I started, Stu. I had asked, and Bill was kind enough to answer, how to wire that precise setup using a lever switch at the cockpit panel [less likely to be kicked than key or toggle] and a 1P1T [Thanks, Harry] keyed switch at the power panel below deck.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Sounds like a plan. Only thing not maybe necessary is a keyed switch down below, that was my point. If (or when) my keyed switch dies, I'll just replace it with a toggle switch in the panel. For "security", I'd depend on my hatchboard lock, since anyone who really wants to steal a boat can get it started without a keyed switch, out in the open or hidden down below.

 

[Calif. Ted]

Boatswain's Locker in Costa Mesa has most parts available for Yanmars and other brands, they are a do-it-all, parts, service sales etc. They were the original supplier of Yanmars to Catalina for many of the California built boats.
http://www.boatswainslocker.com/default.aspx?Page=Home