I'm getting ready to install (4) 6 volt batteries for my house bank. I ran across this web site that shows a slightly differant method of wiring the bank. They call it "cross connecting" and they say it will better distribute the load and charge currents among the cells and improve battery life. Please check out the web site and let me know your thoughts. I personally have never seen a battery bank wired using this method.
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That'll work
Kinda a moot point in my mind. The batteries will level out as they come up to full charge in either case. Just be aware that you now have twice the number of connections in your battery box so keep up the maintenance on them.
Kinda a moot point in my mind. The batteries will level out as they come up to full charge in either case. Just be aware that you now have twice the number of connections in your battery box so keep up the maintenance on them.
It's a lot of unnecessary connections
and it won't make any difference to the batteries. It will, however, cost more, be more work to implement and increase the chances for a faulty connection. Simpler IS better in this case. Just my opinion.
and it won't make any difference to the batteries. It will, however, cost more, be more work to implement and increase the chances for a faulty connection. Simpler IS better in this case. Just my opinion.
BillFred, ID the parts and pieces
Batteries are 6 volts right? What is the red box in the upper left? I'm assuming the upper right is a battery switch. Is it a 1-2-both-off or just off/on? And I can't really tell in the picture was + and what -.
Batteries are 6 volts right? What is the red box in the upper left? I'm assuming the upper right is a battery switch. Is it a 1-2-both-off or just off/on? And I can't really tell in the picture was + and what -.
Bill,
Drat, you noticed! Andy, the red box is a fuse holder for my LectraSan. The switch is wired backwards. The bank is my only one. No engine start battery. So it's wired so as to let power to the engine, or the panel or both. I keep it on 'both'. More: The larger red wire that is looped is the feed for the Prosine 2.0. It isn't switched with the rest of the systems. But it is protected by a 300 amp fuse that's hidden just behind the batteries. But honest, it really is simple. Some of the wires are just there for convenience. And because the post studs are full.
Drat, you noticed! Andy, the red box is a fuse holder for my LectraSan. The switch is wired backwards. The bank is my only one. No engine start battery. So it's wired so as to let power to the engine, or the panel or both. I keep it on 'both'. More: The larger red wire that is looped is the feed for the Prosine 2.0. It isn't switched with the rest of the systems. But it is protected by a 300 amp fuse that's hidden just behind the batteries. But honest, it really is simple. Some of the wires are just there for convenience. And because the post studs are full.
Fred
Fred, When you say "the right equipment" I assume you are talking about a good "smart charger", which I will be using on my new 6 volt battery bank. Do you leave your charger on when you are away from your boat or do you charge only when you are at your boat. Some folks told me I shouldn't leave the gharger running all week but it seems to me that's what smart chargers were designed to do.
Fred, When you say "the right equipment" I assume you are talking about a good "smart charger", which I will be using on my new 6 volt battery bank. Do you leave your charger on when you are away from your boat or do you charge only when you are at your boat. Some folks told me I shouldn't leave the gharger running all week but it seems to me that's what smart chargers were designed to do.
I hope I can add a bit to this thread...
Whenever Fred answers a question before I do, I normally just shut up as his answers generally are spot on. But maybe this time I can add to the discussion. I've always had battery porblems until my present boat, a Hunter 380. It's just that I finally learned. I have four golf (6V) cart batteries (Interstate wet) for the house and a group 27 deep discharge for the starting battery. I went with the larger starting battery because it is connected to the solar cell that was build into my boat. Also my anchor winch is hooked directly to the stating battery and it's a long run of wire. But I did the following that I think is important--maybe Fred will agree, maybe not. I disabled the regulator on the engine and added a Smart Regulator in the engine room. I also added a West Combiner to keep the batteries banks separated. I have a on/off switch for both banks--they are not connected except when the combiner is charging both. I also installed a Xentrex 20+ battery charger that is my love. It always seems to know what the batteries need. I also add a Link 20 to monitor both battery banks. It is very reasuring to press a little button and it tells me what my batteries are doing--actually, just looking at my navigation panel, I can see all green if everything is correct. I've had the 6V batteries since early in 2000 and they seem okay yet. I replaced my starting battery because I let it dry out (that damn solar cell) too often. All battery banks have a 12 volt fuse as recommended by Hunter. Some ask why I didn't also add a bigger alternator while I was doing this change over. A bigger alternator would put more strain on the engine and I first wanted to see how this present system would hold up. Other than the solar cell problem I can sit three days on the anchor and run my freezer and refrigerator. By the end of the third day I"m getting a yellow warning light on my Link 20 saying we need juice. Powering doesn't fill up the batteries as fast as shore power but does a decent job. I also leave my battery charger on all the time the boat is at the dock. If Fred hasn't told you we sail year 'round in the Northwest. I could send a sematic of the system to any one that wanted it (I think--never scanned something like this). Hope this helps and adds to the thread. Les
Whenever Fred answers a question before I do, I normally just shut up as his answers generally are spot on. But maybe this time I can add to the discussion. I've always had battery porblems until my present boat, a Hunter 380. It's just that I finally learned. I have four golf (6V) cart batteries (Interstate wet) for the house and a group 27 deep discharge for the starting battery. I went with the larger starting battery because it is connected to the solar cell that was build into my boat. Also my anchor winch is hooked directly to the stating battery and it's a long run of wire. But I did the following that I think is important--maybe Fred will agree, maybe not. I disabled the regulator on the engine and added a Smart Regulator in the engine room. I also added a West Combiner to keep the batteries banks separated. I have a on/off switch for both banks--they are not connected except when the combiner is charging both. I also installed a Xentrex 20+ battery charger that is my love. It always seems to know what the batteries need. I also add a Link 20 to monitor both battery banks. It is very reasuring to press a little button and it tells me what my batteries are doing--actually, just looking at my navigation panel, I can see all green if everything is correct. I've had the 6V batteries since early in 2000 and they seem okay yet. I replaced my starting battery because I let it dry out (that damn solar cell) too often. All battery banks have a 12 volt fuse as recommended by Hunter. Some ask why I didn't also add a bigger alternator while I was doing this change over. A bigger alternator would put more strain on the engine and I first wanted to see how this present system would hold up. Other than the solar cell problem I can sit three days on the anchor and run my freezer and refrigerator. By the end of the third day I"m getting a yellow warning light on my Link 20 saying we need juice. Powering doesn't fill up the batteries as fast as shore power but does a decent job. I also leave my battery charger on all the time the boat is at the dock. If Fred hasn't told you we sail year 'round in the Northwest. I could send a sematic of the system to any one that wanted it (I think--never scanned something like this). Hope this helps and adds to the thread. Les
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