I'd like to get some other views on winterizing (in this case a Yanmar 2GM20F). I normally remove the water pump impeller after sucking anti-freeze into the raw water side of the engine. Since I have the water pump off, I leave it off (to take tension off the water pump belt) and then loosen the alternator belt as well. Do others also remove their imppellers and loosen the water pump and alt belts when winterizing? Are these steps necessary? Also, I normally change the oil and filter when winterizing, but wait until spring to change the primary and secondary fuel filters. Should I be changing the fuel filters in the fall as well? Would like to get some ideas about how others deal with these common tasks.
- Status
a little overboard?
I never heard of anybody loosening the belts for winter but I guess it can't hurt, as long as you remember to tighten in spring. And why remove the impellor, if you are putiing anti-freeze in? As far as changing out filters, I don't think that matters at all whether spring or fall.
I never heard of anybody loosening the belts for winter but I guess it can't hurt, as long as you remember to tighten in spring. And why remove the impellor, if you are putiing anti-freeze in? As far as changing out filters, I don't think that matters at all whether spring or fall.
Loosening the Belts - Important!
I, for one, always loosen the belts over the winter. I learned that with storing cars many years ago. By leaving tension on the belts, there is also tension on the pulleys (water pump, alternator, raw water pump, cam shaft). This tensions may cause them to take an incorrect "shape". If the pulleys are allowed to "relax", then the tension will release. This tension would pull on the pulleys and transfer the tension to the shafts of the equipment. That is why stored cars are lifted onto blocks - to keep tension off of the tires and suspension.
I, for one, always loosen the belts over the winter. I learned that with storing cars many years ago. By leaving tension on the belts, there is also tension on the pulleys (water pump, alternator, raw water pump, cam shaft). This tensions may cause them to take an incorrect "shape". If the pulleys are allowed to "relax", then the tension will release. This tension would pull on the pulleys and transfer the tension to the shafts of the equipment. That is why stored cars are lifted onto blocks - to keep tension off of the tires and suspension.
Nigel's list
From CruisersForum.com FWIW (his list, not mine): The following checklist for laying up your boat is adapted from Nigel Calder’s “Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual”. Engines * Change the engine oil, transmission oil and antifreeze. * Drain the raw water system, taking particular care to empty all low spots. Remove rubber pump impellers, lightly grease with petroleum jelly and replace. Leave the pump cover screws loose so that impellers won’t stick in the pump housings. Run the engine for a few seconds to drive any remaining water out of the exhaust. Wash salt crystals out of any vented loops. * Check the primary fuel filter and fuel tank for water and sediment. Keep a diesel tank full to cut down on condensation. * Squirt some oil into the inlet manifold and turn the engine over a few times (without starting) to spread the oil over cylinder walls. * Grease all grease points. * Remove the inner wires of all engine control cables from their outer sheaths; clean, inspect, grease, and replace. Check the sheathing. * Seal all openings into the engine (e.g., air, inlet, exhaust) and the fuel tank vent. Put a conspicuous notice somewhere so you remember to unseal everything at the start of next season. * Inspect all hoses for signs of softening, cracking and/or bulging. * If hauling out: Check for propeller blade misalignment and Cutlass bearing wear; tighten any strut mounting bolts; inspect stainless steel prop shafts for crevice corrosion; remove prop nut to check under it. Batteries * Bring to a full charge. Equalize flooded batteries. Top up. Clean the battery tops. Unless the batteries are being properly float charged (via a solar panel or battery charger with float regulation) remove from the boat and store in a cool, dry place. Bring flooded batteries to a full charge once a month. Electronics and Electrical Circuits * Remove electronic equipment to a warm, dry place. * Clean corrosion off all electrical terminals and connections and protect with petroleum jelly or a shot of WD-40 or other moisture-dispelling aerosol. Pay attention to all external outlets, especially the AC shorepower socket. Toilets * Drain and/or pump system with 30% to 50% antifreeze. Break loose the discharge hose and check for calcification. Wash out vented loops. Freshwater Systems * Pump out and clean tanks. Drain system and/or pump through a 30% to 50% propylene glycol antifreeze solution. Use a water heater bypass, if applicable. Inspect pumps (especially vane and flexible impeller types) for wear. Remove flexible impellers, lightly grease (with a Teflon-based grease), and reinstall. Stuffing Boxes * If hauling out, repack. If wintering in the water, tighten down to stop any drip. Be sure to loosen before reusing the propeller or the shaft will overheat. Seacocks * If hauling out, pull and grease all seacock plugs if possible. Dismantle and grease gate valves. If wintering in the water, close seacocks (except cockpit drains) and closely inspect cockpit drain hoses and clamps. Stoves * Drain a little fuel from kerosene and/or alcohol tanks and check for water and contaminants. Close LPG or CNG gas valves at the cylinder. Renew filaments on filament-type igniters at least every two years. Steering * Cable steering: Remove cables from conduits, then clean, inspect, grease, and replace them. Also, check sheave mountings and clean, inspect, and lubricate cable ends. Rack-and-pinion steering: Remove top plate and input socket screws; clean, grease and replace. Hydraulic steering: Top off fluid and check all seals and hoses for leaks and/or damage. Compasses * Remove all oil filled compasses from the boat and store in warm environment. E. & O. E.
From CruisersForum.com FWIW (his list, not mine): The following checklist for laying up your boat is adapted from Nigel Calder’s “Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual”. Engines * Change the engine oil, transmission oil and antifreeze. * Drain the raw water system, taking particular care to empty all low spots. Remove rubber pump impellers, lightly grease with petroleum jelly and replace. Leave the pump cover screws loose so that impellers won’t stick in the pump housings. Run the engine for a few seconds to drive any remaining water out of the exhaust. Wash salt crystals out of any vented loops. * Check the primary fuel filter and fuel tank for water and sediment. Keep a diesel tank full to cut down on condensation. * Squirt some oil into the inlet manifold and turn the engine over a few times (without starting) to spread the oil over cylinder walls. * Grease all grease points. * Remove the inner wires of all engine control cables from their outer sheaths; clean, inspect, grease, and replace. Check the sheathing. * Seal all openings into the engine (e.g., air, inlet, exhaust) and the fuel tank vent. Put a conspicuous notice somewhere so you remember to unseal everything at the start of next season. * Inspect all hoses for signs of softening, cracking and/or bulging. * If hauling out: Check for propeller blade misalignment and Cutlass bearing wear; tighten any strut mounting bolts; inspect stainless steel prop shafts for crevice corrosion; remove prop nut to check under it. Batteries * Bring to a full charge. Equalize flooded batteries. Top up. Clean the battery tops. Unless the batteries are being properly float charged (via a solar panel or battery charger with float regulation) remove from the boat and store in a cool, dry place. Bring flooded batteries to a full charge once a month. Electronics and Electrical Circuits * Remove electronic equipment to a warm, dry place. * Clean corrosion off all electrical terminals and connections and protect with petroleum jelly or a shot of WD-40 or other moisture-dispelling aerosol. Pay attention to all external outlets, especially the AC shorepower socket. Toilets * Drain and/or pump system with 30% to 50% antifreeze. Break loose the discharge hose and check for calcification. Wash out vented loops. Freshwater Systems * Pump out and clean tanks. Drain system and/or pump through a 30% to 50% propylene glycol antifreeze solution. Use a water heater bypass, if applicable. Inspect pumps (especially vane and flexible impeller types) for wear. Remove flexible impellers, lightly grease (with a Teflon-based grease), and reinstall. Stuffing Boxes * If hauling out, repack. If wintering in the water, tighten down to stop any drip. Be sure to loosen before reusing the propeller or the shaft will overheat. Seacocks * If hauling out, pull and grease all seacock plugs if possible. Dismantle and grease gate valves. If wintering in the water, close seacocks (except cockpit drains) and closely inspect cockpit drain hoses and clamps. Stoves * Drain a little fuel from kerosene and/or alcohol tanks and check for water and contaminants. Close LPG or CNG gas valves at the cylinder. Renew filaments on filament-type igniters at least every two years. Steering * Cable steering: Remove cables from conduits, then clean, inspect, grease, and replace them. Also, check sheave mountings and clean, inspect, and lubricate cable ends. Rack-and-pinion steering: Remove top plate and input socket screws; clean, grease and replace. Hydraulic steering: Top off fluid and check all seals and hoses for leaks and/or damage. Compasses * Remove all oil filled compasses from the boat and store in warm environment. E. & O. E.
A little overboard
Steve O Te reason why you remove the impeller annually for the winter, is that under normal use the impeller fins are flattened by one side of the pump casing (that is how it pumps.) Leaving the impeller in place, even with antifreeze in the raw water system, is an invitation to the flattened fins to take a set (at the minimum) or at the worst to actually stick to the pump casing at the point where they are flattened.
Steve O Te reason why you remove the impeller annually for the winter, is that under normal use the impeller fins are flattened by one side of the pump casing (that is how it pumps.) Leaving the impeller in place, even with antifreeze in the raw water system, is an invitation to the flattened fins to take a set (at the minimum) or at the worst to actually stick to the pump casing at the point where they are flattened.
Winters a commin
By the end of next month we should have snow on the ground, I hope. In addition to all that was said about winterizing I usually pour some pink anti-freeze down my cockpit drains,sink drains, & Icebox drain. All these lines have some degree of dips and valleys, some place for the water to collect and freeze. So some pink should help out. I also remove the raw water impeller, after flushing the system with pink. We usually get -10/20 degree days in feb and march which will freeze just about anything not protected. Happy winter
By the end of next month we should have snow on the ground, I hope. In addition to all that was said about winterizing I usually pour some pink anti-freeze down my cockpit drains,sink drains, & Icebox drain. All these lines have some degree of dips and valleys, some place for the water to collect and freeze. So some pink should help out. I also remove the raw water impeller, after flushing the system with pink. We usually get -10/20 degree days in feb and march which will freeze just about anything not protected. Happy winter
Calder...
Some years ago, Nigel Calder wrote a series of articles for a major sailing pub (I think it was Cruising World, but not sure). These articles dealt with how one could commission his own new boat. I think Calder had just bought a new Crealock 37 or similar boat. Anyhow...Calder described how he wired up all his new electronics, hit the "on" switch, and promptly fried them all. He then had the chutzpah to contact the makers of all the gear he had just destroyed and ask for replacements. He got them. And for free -- just like you and I would if we fried our electronics.... (He then had a pro wire them up). I've been wary of advice from Calder ever since.
Some years ago, Nigel Calder wrote a series of articles for a major sailing pub (I think it was Cruising World, but not sure). These articles dealt with how one could commission his own new boat. I think Calder had just bought a new Crealock 37 or similar boat. Anyhow...Calder described how he wired up all his new electronics, hit the "on" switch, and promptly fried them all. He then had the chutzpah to contact the makers of all the gear he had just destroyed and ask for replacements. He got them. And for free -- just like you and I would if we fried our electronics.... (He then had a pro wire them up). I've been wary of advice from Calder ever since.
- Status