Winterizing question - fogging vs puling injectors

[Chris & Lenore]

First off, the boat will sit for 6 months. More than half of that time the temp will go above and below freezing on a daily basis (southern ontario).
I have always fogged my outboards. The ones I bought that were not fogged all had rust and scoring on the cylinder walls - and died an early death.

So on my Yanmar 3GM30F, the manual says to remove the injectors, squirt in a few cc's oil, crank the engine a bit and replace the injectors. That's a lot of work. Can I simply use a fogging spray? I read that the engine will run on the fog oil (stop knob pulled and throttle at idle) - so you can't just spray it in the intake and crank away.

Is this true?

Also, I will be removing the heat exchanger and exhaust manifold. Can I flip the decompression lever (holds the exhaust valve open - according to the manual) and spray the oil into the exhaust opening? I assume I can get close to the valve with the manifold off. Then I'd just crank the engine a bit to distribute the oil.

Or, should I remove the injectors as per the Yanmar shop manual?

Appreciate any advice,

Chris

 

[kloudie1]

Chris, with the compression lever pulled and the engine spinning, I would think that you'd get enough fogging oil in to do the job. I don't think I'd pull the manifold but I would pull the air cleaner and fog into the open inlet. The engine would most likely run on the fogging oil ..Since you are pulling the exhaust anyway, you can fog into there while spinning with the compression release engaged.

 

[centerline]

outboards vs diesel engines... fogging a gas engine that has absolutely clean cylinder walls is a good practice when its kept in a damp atmosphere.

a diesel engine can benefit somewhat from fogging, but the nature of diesel is oily in itself, and even more so if you are using a good diesel fuel conditioner....

when shutting down a diesel after its been run for awhile, the cylinders will be warm and the cylinder walls will be cleaner but still oilier than in a gas engine, but if you start your diesel engine cold, and then shut it off immediately without allowing it to become warm, there will be a lot of oily residue in the cylinders for protection.

in my experience its unnecessary to fog a diesel engine if its shut down quickly after a cold start, UNLESS its setting in and unusually wet location for an extended period. and then it would be a good idea to fog the outside of it also for corrosion protection.

 

[Chris & Lenore]

Good advice and I can combine both of them!
The engine does not have glow plugs and cranks for a good 15 seconds before firing when it's around freezing. When it does start it spews a little unburnt fuel out the exhaust (on warm days it starts immediately with no oil or smoke).
So I just need to crank it for 15 seconds and if it starts, immediately pull the fuel cutoff.

Then, since I need to remove the exhaust manifold anyway, I can still use fogging oil "up the exhaust opening" with the compression released.

Sure beats removing and replacing the injectors as per the Yanmar manual. I just managed to get all the leaks stopped (new crush washers)...

Thanks again,

Chris

 

[Scott]

lotsa great advice

Chris,

Between this post and your previous one you have received alot of excellent advice. Advice for the most part, I think, basically confirming your intuition of just about everything.

Originally, Yanmar recomended 30wt oil only in these engines. About 6-7? years ago they issued a service bulletin recommending the multi-viscosity oil.

All I have ever done in 26 years on my 2gm is diligent regular maintenance, proper winterizing as you are doing, R/R mixing elbow and adjust valves.

Never had a single problem. They are great engines.

With your's having only 400 hours on it, it is basically just getting broken in. :dance:

 

[Chris & Lenore]

Chris,

Between this post and your previous one you have received alot of excellent advice. Advice for the most part, I think, basically confirming your intuition of just about everything.

Originally, Yanmar recomended 30wt oil only in these engines. About 6-7? years ago they issued a service bulletin recommending the multi-viscosity oil.

All I have ever done in 26 years on my 2gm is diligent regular maintenance, proper winterizing as you are doing, R/R mixing elbow and adjust valves.

Never had a single problem. They are great engines.

With your's having only 400 hours on it, it is basically just getting broken in. :dance:

Hi Scott,

I definitely agree with your comment about the excellent advice - love this forum! Intuition is good but experience is better - and there is a lot of collective experience in these forums.

Chris