I have a 1992 H28 that has an aluminum holding tank. It is that time of year when I am winterizing her in preparation for the long harsh New England winter. I manually pumped out my tank prior to having the boat hauled (yes, I was over 3 miles offshore). I know that the pick-up tube does not go all the way to the bottom of the tank. Is there any danger of damaging the tank if the residual "stuff" freezes? If so, how do I get the last bit out; or do you add antifreeze? Thanks.
- Status
pink stuff
You should pump some anti-freeze through the head and into the holding tank. Don't forget the fresh water system, engine, and any sink or cockpit drains.
You should pump some anti-freeze through the head and into the holding tank. Don't forget the fresh water system, engine, and any sink or cockpit drains.
Winterizing Plumbing
SANITATION SYSTEM: 1. Pump out and THOROUGHLY rinse out the tank to remove any sludge accumulation. 2. Disconnect toilet intake line from the thru-hull (close the seacock first if the boat is still in the water), stick it into a jug of non-toxic potable marine/rv antifreeze, flush it through the system into the tank. DON'T just pour antifreeze down the toilet...that will only protect the discharge and the tank, leaving the rest of the system at risk of freeze damage...as more than one owner has learned the hard way when he discovered in the spring that his bowl had cracked at the inlet fitting in the back of it. Depending on how much liquid is left in the tank, it may be necessary to add additional antifreeze to the tank to achieve the ratio of antifreeze/water needed (see the directions on the antifreeze label) in your climate. Once you've added enough antifreeze to protect the tank, pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water...leave 'em open till spring. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs. Instructions are in the manuals...if you don't have a manual, you can download one from the mfr's website. FRESH WATER SYSTEM: 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.
SANITATION SYSTEM: 1. Pump out and THOROUGHLY rinse out the tank to remove any sludge accumulation. 2. Disconnect toilet intake line from the thru-hull (close the seacock first if the boat is still in the water), stick it into a jug of non-toxic potable marine/rv antifreeze, flush it through the system into the tank. DON'T just pour antifreeze down the toilet...that will only protect the discharge and the tank, leaving the rest of the system at risk of freeze damage...as more than one owner has learned the hard way when he discovered in the spring that his bowl had cracked at the inlet fitting in the back of it. Depending on how much liquid is left in the tank, it may be necessary to add additional antifreeze to the tank to achieve the ratio of antifreeze/water needed (see the directions on the antifreeze label) in your climate. Once you've added enough antifreeze to protect the tank, pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water...leave 'em open till spring. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs. Instructions are in the manuals...if you don't have a manual, you can download one from the mfr's website. FRESH WATER SYSTEM: 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.
- Status