Winterized-Now Hand crank?

[Ed H]

I winterized my 1981 H33 with its Yanmar 2GM (raw-water cooled) engine a couple of months ago. Now, am I supposed to periodically hand-crank the engine to cycle the oil up to protect the cylinder walls? I think I read that somewhere, but I can not find it in any of my engine manuals. If so, how long and how many rotations should I crank? Does that pump in fuel also and is it ok to leave that extra diesel sitting in the cylinders? Thanks guys. Ed H.

 

[rardiH36]

I see no one has responded yet.

Can I suggest that you post on the "Ask All Sailors" forum? There is a much larger group that monitors over there.

Sorry, being from a use the boat all year climate, I can't really answer your question, other than mentioning that for me, hand cranking my Yanmar 2QM20 is really hard. Yes, I can use the hand crank to slowly position the shaft in the right spot for valve clearance adjustments etc, ... but certainly I wouldn't be able rotate it fast enough to get enough suction going through the oil pump. I've seen threads were people have asked about using the hand crank to actually emergency start a diesel. General experience is its very difficult, almost impossible to do. However, if you wedge open the decompression release lever, this will make hand cranking easier.

From my Seloc manual in the winter storage checklist section it says that after the other winterizing stuff is done, "7. Run the engine up to operating temp and then turn it off. 8. with the fuel shut-off pulled, squirt some oil into the inlet manifold and turn the engine over a few times without starting. This will spread oil around the cylinders and prevent rust and corrosion from forming."

 

[Don Crowther]

Ed
Once my engine has been winterized that's it until spring and we're ready to splash. This is my 3 season with a yanmar and I've never had any problems in the spring.
Hope this helps.

 

[kloudie1]

Nope, Don't do it.
If you are worried about rust in the bores now, get some "Fogging Oil" in a spray can and with the decompression levers pulled so there is NO compression, turn the engine over by hand (sort of quickly) or with the starter no more than five-ten seconds while spraying fogging oil into the intake (air cleaner off) . The engine can fire on fogging oil so it is important to decompress before spinning and spraying. If you do that, don't mess with it again until re-comissioning.

 

[Ed H]

Hey Rardi- I was considering where to post this, but I thought the Cherubini Brethern may be the ones who could tackle this old yanmar 2GM question. I will re-post it as you suggest if we don't hear more in the next couple of days.... I tried hand-cranking mine and it was very easy to get it turning at around 60 RPM. Of course that is with both compression levers in the "non-compression" position. I am not sure the oil still circulates with the levers in that position. It is interesting that your manual says to pull the fuel shut-off. I should probably do that. Thanks for your reply. Ed H

 

[Ed H]

Nope, Don't do it.
If you are worried about rust in the bores now, get some "Fogging Oil" in a spray can and with the decompression levers pulled so there is NO compression, turn the engine over by hand (sort of quickly) or with the starter no more than five-ten seconds while spraying fogging oil into the intake (air cleaner off) . The engine can fire on fogging oil so it is important to decompress before spinning and spraying. If you do that, don't mess with it again until re-comissioning.

So I take it this is not part of regular winter maintenance ?

 

[kloudie1]

Dunno.. Some folks do and lots of folks don't.. I know of an old 2GM that sits for months between running. It has fine compression and cranks very quickly when started after 4-5 months.. On the other hand, It is easy and cheap to fog one as part of the winterizing regimine.. and it will guarantee that there is no rust bloom on the bores over the winter. On last shutdown, when you have no more cranking to do to circulate antifreeze, with the fuel stop pulled, remove the air strainer and pull the decompression levers.. then spin (5-10 sec) with the starter while fogging oil into the intake. Stop and replace the air strainer and don't spin any more.

 

[Ed Schenck]

My 2QM20 was like new when I removed it after 26 years. I changed the oil in the spring and then the next spring. Doing the same with my new 3YM30. Not sure why the thinking is that at final shutdown(last time is winterizing) all the cylinder oil is going to disappear.

So far as where to post I think most of us use "New Posts" so see everything. I start my day on the Cherubini forum and New Posts the rest of the day. I know, it's sad to have a schedule for here.

 

[Ed H]

Thanks Claude and Ed S.... I will leave well-enough alone. Ed H