This is the first year we will be winterizing our (new to us) 1991 Hunter Legend 37.5. This is a great boat by the way. The previous owner's winter storage technique was to leave the boat uncovered, with the stick up, on a cradle in the Detroit area. The boat will now be stored on its cradle in Mackinaw City, about 270 miles further north. One of the covering alternatives we are considering is to remove the stick, the life line stanchions, and the bow pulpit. The bolts/nuts for the stern pulpit are embedded in fiberglass so we probably will not remove the stern pulpit. We will then construct appropriate ridge poles (2 x 6 carpeted)to span areas like the cockpit. We will then cover the entire boat with a 20' x 40' tarp securely fastened to the cradle and elsewhere. While this is a lot of work, we hope to reuse the cover, ridge poles and related gear for several years. I am concerned about removing the mast. I am assuming the wires to the lights and other gear on the mast have quick disconnects under the overhead panel at the top of the compression post. It also looks like the stanchions can be easily removed - generally two screws on the base legs and one screw in the stanchion base. We will seal up the holes in the deck to prevent water penetration. What has been the experience with removing and replacing the mast on the 37.5? Any horror stories? Also, are the stanchions and bow pulpit as easy to remove and reinstall as they seem? Are we creating problems where none appear to exist? Is leaving the stick alone and shrink wrapping the entire boat the way to go?
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electrical connections
Make sure when you (or the yard) disconnect the wires in the mast from the boat, that you clearly indicate how to hook them back up. Not a huge problem, but was an inconvenience to me when I had all differnt colored wires and none were marked. Good luck.
Make sure when you (or the yard) disconnect the wires in the mast from the boat, that you clearly indicate how to hook them back up. Not a huge problem, but was an inconvenience to me when I had all differnt colored wires and none were marked. Good luck.
Seems like a lot of work
Wow, what kind of winter are you expecting. I can understand taking down the mast, but removing the bow pulpit and life-line stancheons and perhaps other things seems somewhat extreme. I would talk to your marina or boat yard, walk around and see what other sail boaters are doing to prepare their boats and talk to people. Here in New Jersey, most of us store with the stick up and no covers at all. The main concern is with wind and perhaps some water creaping into interior spaces. At worst, the boat gets a little dirty. Sailing should be fun!
Wow, what kind of winter are you expecting. I can understand taking down the mast, but removing the bow pulpit and life-line stancheons and perhaps other things seems somewhat extreme. I would talk to your marina or boat yard, walk around and see what other sail boaters are doing to prepare their boats and talk to people. Here in New Jersey, most of us store with the stick up and no covers at all. The main concern is with wind and perhaps some water creaping into interior spaces. At worst, the boat gets a little dirty. Sailing should be fun!
Do you *really* want to do all that work?
I have a 40.5 and I agree that covering is the way to go. But to remove all that stuff and then put it all back every year is beyond what I would ever want to do. Look at getting a custom cover and frame made that will fit your boat with mast up of down, in the water or on the hard. Fairclough in Connecticut makes such a cover and can probably make one for you from patterns that he has. I would look at his covers and then see if someone near you can do the same thing. The covers aren't inexpensive ($4k), but they will last 12-15 years and assemble/disassemble easily by 2 people.
I have a 40.5 and I agree that covering is the way to go. But to remove all that stuff and then put it all back every year is beyond what I would ever want to do. Look at getting a custom cover and frame made that will fit your boat with mast up of down, in the water or on the hard. Fairclough in Connecticut makes such a cover and can probably make one for you from patterns that he has. I would look at his covers and then see if someone near you can do the same thing. The covers aren't inexpensive ($4k), but they will last 12-15 years and assemble/disassemble easily by 2 people.
I'd tarp it.
We unstep the mast and leave them in horizontal cradles..no big deal. You can rig supports with framing lumber to accept a tarp without removing the stantions and pulpit and stern rail. Give support up the centerline so weight of ice and melting ice and snow does'nt put pressure on the tarp and rip it. Leave access so you can go inside in the winter, sit there with a thrmos of coffee and dream of summer to come. This is not a lot of work.
We unstep the mast and leave them in horizontal cradles..no big deal. You can rig supports with framing lumber to accept a tarp without removing the stantions and pulpit and stern rail. Give support up the centerline so weight of ice and melting ice and snow does'nt put pressure on the tarp and rip it. Leave access so you can go inside in the winter, sit there with a thrmos of coffee and dream of summer to come. This is not a lot of work.
Too much work.
And I will guess that those rails will fight you tooth and nail. On my H37C there are nuts on the other side, most inaccessible. Here on Lake Erie most of us leave the stick up. I took mine down last winter and it was expensive. It costs to pull it, restep it, and then tune the rigging. But I will continue to do that every third winter just to check the rigging and apply some paint. I have used covers the past few winters. It's a hassle with the mast, stays/shrouds, and rails in the way but can be done. This year I will try shrinkwrap. I can purchase a roll that will do three winters for less than $200. Now to go find a heat gun on E-Bay.
And I will guess that those rails will fight you tooth and nail. On my H37C there are nuts on the other side, most inaccessible. Here on Lake Erie most of us leave the stick up. I took mine down last winter and it was expensive. It costs to pull it, restep it, and then tune the rigging. But I will continue to do that every third winter just to check the rigging and apply some paint. I have used covers the past few winters. It's a hassle with the mast, stays/shrouds, and rails in the way but can be done. This year I will try shrinkwrap. I can purchase a roll that will do three winters for less than $200. Now to go find a heat gun on E-Bay.
Tarp Trick
We purchased two large 20x30 tarps from Home Depot, one for before the mast and one after. Take out the lifelines, label and store inside the boat. Cut slits for the stanchions so the tarp lays flat on the deck. Number and mark bow and stern on the tarps for the next year. Don't worry about the bow and stern pulpit. It is strong enough. Put a pail with a brick on it over the mast opening if the mast is down. Make a 2x4 spine from the wheel to the cabin hatch top to support over the cockpit and give yourself a place to sit in the cold weather as described by Bill previously. Tie tarp across bottom of boat and to cradle with old lines or used copper cable. MAke it tight enough that the snow and rain will run off. You might have to check it a time or two during the winter. Good excuse. See previous paragraph. Tarps and ties will last 4-5 years. Total cost, about $50. Alternative - store inside heated. Total cost, about $3000.
We purchased two large 20x30 tarps from Home Depot, one for before the mast and one after. Take out the lifelines, label and store inside the boat. Cut slits for the stanchions so the tarp lays flat on the deck. Number and mark bow and stern on the tarps for the next year. Don't worry about the bow and stern pulpit. It is strong enough. Put a pail with a brick on it over the mast opening if the mast is down. Make a 2x4 spine from the wheel to the cabin hatch top to support over the cockpit and give yourself a place to sit in the cold weather as described by Bill previously. Tie tarp across bottom of boat and to cradle with old lines or used copper cable. MAke it tight enough that the snow and rain will run off. You might have to check it a time or two during the winter. Good excuse. See previous paragraph. Tarps and ties will last 4-5 years. Total cost, about $50. Alternative - store inside heated. Total cost, about $3000.
A lot of work...
This seems like a lot of work... In our area, near Montreal in Canada, our boat is stored on a cradle with the mast and stanchion left in place, as are the 1000 plus boat in the 3 marinas surrounding our's. Montreal normally receive between 200 and 250 inchs of snow between early december and early april. Temperature below zero is the norm... About 10 % of the sailboats have some kind of cover (full or partial). Our 35.5 is only covered with a tarp from the mast up to the companionway . 100% of the power boats have shrink wrap. The snow melting in the spring always leave the deck and hull clean.
This seems like a lot of work... In our area, near Montreal in Canada, our boat is stored on a cradle with the mast and stanchion left in place, as are the 1000 plus boat in the 3 marinas surrounding our's. Montreal normally receive between 200 and 250 inchs of snow between early december and early april. Temperature below zero is the norm... About 10 % of the sailboats have some kind of cover (full or partial). Our 35.5 is only covered with a tarp from the mast up to the companionway . 100% of the power boats have shrink wrap. The snow melting in the spring always leave the deck and hull clean.
I agree with . .
most of the others, it is too much work. I also agree with you, I have a 1991 37.5 and it IS A GREAT BOAT. We have had our boat 3 years and this is the first winter we will be hauling. Mainly because we plan on keeping this boat a while, and I am going to do a water barrier bottom job this off season. We don't have any blisters, and I would like to keep it that way. After this winter, I probably won't store on the hard for the forseeable future. Just a quick haul every 3 years to apply some bottom paint. Chris s/v Tidesong
most of the others, it is too much work. I also agree with you, I have a 1991 37.5 and it IS A GREAT BOAT. We have had our boat 3 years and this is the first winter we will be hauling. Mainly because we plan on keeping this boat a while, and I am going to do a water barrier bottom job this off season. We don't have any blisters, and I would like to keep it that way. After this winter, I probably won't store on the hard for the forseeable future. Just a quick haul every 3 years to apply some bottom paint. Chris s/v Tidesong
Use a net on top of the tarp
Once you cover your boat with a tarp, the tarp will be susceptable to wind. Get yourself a fishnet and cover the tarp. It will keep the tarp in place and the wind will be unable to tear it.
Once you cover your boat with a tarp, the tarp will be susceptable to wind. Get yourself a fishnet and cover the tarp. It will keep the tarp in place and the wind will be unable to tear it.
Leave the stanchions on
Why make more work? I don't see a need to remove the stanchions and lifelines. They shouldn't impede the frame that you are to build. Actually, I use mt stanchions to support the frame uprights. Just be sure that the stanchions have "weep holes" drilled into the side near the base. The stanchions have a way of accumulating water and freezing during the winter. When this happens, a stiffener inside the stanchion may rise and pinch the lifeline and begin cutting into the lifeline (lower one). So a 1/8" hole at the base will allow the water to weep out. I have seen this happen on several different models (as well as my '88 L37) and had this recommended to me by Hunter.
Why make more work? I don't see a need to remove the stanchions and lifelines. They shouldn't impede the frame that you are to build. Actually, I use mt stanchions to support the frame uprights. Just be sure that the stanchions have "weep holes" drilled into the side near the base. The stanchions have a way of accumulating water and freezing during the winter. When this happens, a stiffener inside the stanchion may rise and pinch the lifeline and begin cutting into the lifeline (lower one). So a 1/8" hole at the base will allow the water to weep out. I have seen this happen on several different models (as well as my '88 L37) and had this recommended to me by Hunter.
6 pin trailer plug
My mast was converted by the previous owner to a six pin trailer plug. Buy them at an RV store. I have only one plug to connect in the mast now.
My mast was converted by the previous owner to a six pin trailer plug. Buy them at an RV store. I have only one plug to connect in the mast now.
Same winter as you in Racine
Don't take off the deck stanchions, why go through all that work to invite leaks? We leave the mast up, we take off the wheel and cover the instruments. Take of dodger and sails, secure all rigging. ALso, arrange with the yard to have the batteries plugged in once a month. A cover would be nice, but still have not gotten mine from Rich Stidger!
Don't take off the deck stanchions, why go through all that work to invite leaks? We leave the mast up, we take off the wheel and cover the instruments. Take of dodger and sails, secure all rigging. ALso, arrange with the yard to have the batteries plugged in once a month. A cover would be nice, but still have not gotten mine from Rich Stidger!
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