Just purchased a 1985 Catalina 30 and I am wondering if someone has figured out an easy and practical way to cover their boat for the winter. The yard told me that just using a blue poly tarp is not a good idea as it can pull down on the safety line stanchions and possibly bend the stantions. Also need to wrap the boat to preclude the tarp acting like a hugh kite. Has any one come up with an economical frame? The mast is already stored and not redily available. Thanks Marc P
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Russell Sala
wrap up
I got the heavier brown poly wrap and put it over the mast ( I supose you could get some 2x4s to make a fraim ) and then cut it at the stanchions so that the safty lines and the stanchion are on the outside. I also used 3 tarps to make the job easier. I just tied the eyelets togather to make one long tarp.Good luck to you and happy holidays.
I got the heavier brown poly wrap and put it over the mast ( I supose you could get some 2x4s to make a fraim ) and then cut it at the stanchions so that the safty lines and the stanchion are on the outside. I also used 3 tarps to make the job easier. I just tied the eyelets togather to make one long tarp.Good luck to you and happy holidays.
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Dick of Sylvan
Winter in the Rockies
I leave my Cat 22 outdoors at about 7800 ft elev. in w. Wyoming. Snow usually gets to about 3 ft. deep here each year, and sunshine is extremely intense. I've found the high quality silver poly tarps that are used out West to cover hay stacks to be much better in resisting UV deterioration than the colored tarps. I drape the tarp over the entire boat incuding the mast that is lying end-to-end over the cabin, and I do reinforce areas that otherwise would sag and injure rigging parts. Especially the spreaders must be supported well to avoid damage from the weight of snow/ice. I've had no problems with the stanchions, though one could rig some support to protect them if necessary. If the tarp drains off the boat during snow melts, all is well. However, any low point will pool the water and the resulting ice gets very heavy over the winter. Small grommeted holes in those areas would probably be a good idea. Good winter care means quicker spring sailing so a little extra care now is certainly worthwhile!
I leave my Cat 22 outdoors at about 7800 ft elev. in w. Wyoming. Snow usually gets to about 3 ft. deep here each year, and sunshine is extremely intense. I've found the high quality silver poly tarps that are used out West to cover hay stacks to be much better in resisting UV deterioration than the colored tarps. I drape the tarp over the entire boat incuding the mast that is lying end-to-end over the cabin, and I do reinforce areas that otherwise would sag and injure rigging parts. Especially the spreaders must be supported well to avoid damage from the weight of snow/ice. I've had no problems with the stanchions, though one could rig some support to protect them if necessary. If the tarp drains off the boat during snow melts, all is well. However, any low point will pool the water and the resulting ice gets very heavy over the winter. Small grommeted holes in those areas would probably be a good idea. Good winter care means quicker spring sailing so a little extra care now is certainly worthwhile!
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Alastair Longley-Cook
Frame it
The gentleman I purchased my Catalina 30 from had a great rig he had constructed out of PVC pipe and taup. He kindly helped me set it up and it looks fine. The PVC pipes can be taped to the stanchions, elbowed in and slotted into a middle eave at an angle high enough to shed snow. With strapping woven inbetween, they form a nice shed over the boat to put the taup over (he used 30'X50'). The taup is then brought down under the boat and laced tight using closeline. The whole rig must be strong and tight to withstand winter weather. If this is too much work for you, get it shrink wrapped for about $600 (Maine prices). Good luck,
The gentleman I purchased my Catalina 30 from had a great rig he had constructed out of PVC pipe and taup. He kindly helped me set it up and it looks fine. The PVC pipes can be taped to the stanchions, elbowed in and slotted into a middle eave at an angle high enough to shed snow. With strapping woven inbetween, they form a nice shed over the boat to put the taup over (he used 30'X50'). The taup is then brought down under the boat and laced tight using closeline. The whole rig must be strong and tight to withstand winter weather. If this is too much work for you, get it shrink wrapped for about $600 (Maine prices). Good luck,
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Marc Potkin
Frame It Question
Alastair, Can you give me a little more info on how the pvc connects at the middle eave and the strapping? What size pvc? This sounds like a great idea and I would like to try it. Thanks Marc P
Alastair, Can you give me a little more info on how the pvc connects at the middle eave and the strapping? What size pvc? This sounds like a great idea and I would like to try it. Thanks Marc P
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Mike Beaujean
framing
For my 1983 Catalina 27 (Hull #5258), I made a frame using 3/4" electrical conduit tubing. I cover my boat with the mast stepped. I made a backbone extending from bow to stern resting the middle on the main winch. I used a tubing bender to make conduit ribs which I attached to the stanchions using nylon wire ties and crutch feet so as not to scratch the deck. I then used ferring (spelling?) strips lengthwise along this frame and finished off using two blue poly tarps. The first went from the bow to just aft of the mast. The second overlapped just aft of the mast and went to the stern. It took some getting used to and trial and error to make cutouts for the mast, shrouds, forestay, and backstay, but this setup reamins strong all winter and if the parts are numbered before you disassemble, it goes back together the following winter in about an hour. Hope this helps. Regards, Mike Beaujean "Timeless Flight" 1983 C-27 #5258
For my 1983 Catalina 27 (Hull #5258), I made a frame using 3/4" electrical conduit tubing. I cover my boat with the mast stepped. I made a backbone extending from bow to stern resting the middle on the main winch. I used a tubing bender to make conduit ribs which I attached to the stanchions using nylon wire ties and crutch feet so as not to scratch the deck. I then used ferring (spelling?) strips lengthwise along this frame and finished off using two blue poly tarps. The first went from the bow to just aft of the mast. The second overlapped just aft of the mast and went to the stern. It took some getting used to and trial and error to make cutouts for the mast, shrouds, forestay, and backstay, but this setup reamins strong all winter and if the parts are numbered before you disassemble, it goes back together the following winter in about an hour. Hope this helps. Regards, Mike Beaujean "Timeless Flight" 1983 C-27 #5258
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Alastair Longley-Cook
Frame It question answered
Marc: PVC pipes come with all kinds of angled joints. The eave, or backbone, can be fitted with double 90 degree joints so that the pitched verticals slot right in. I believe the size was about 3 inch diameter. Strapping was maybe 1 inch by 1/8 - you can buy it in a large roll. You then thread it around and between the frame to fill in the large spaces. If I get my photos developed soon, I'll post a pix. Have fun. -Alastair.
Marc: PVC pipes come with all kinds of angled joints. The eave, or backbone, can be fitted with double 90 degree joints so that the pitched verticals slot right in. I believe the size was about 3 inch diameter. Strapping was maybe 1 inch by 1/8 - you can buy it in a large roll. You then thread it around and between the frame to fill in the large spaces. If I get my photos developed soon, I'll post a pix. Have fun. -Alastair.
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