I have a problem with my windshield. We have tried different materials to seal, and eliminate drips / leak, without success. So the windshield expands and contracts, we think because of the sun/heat. Any advice? Suggestion?
Windshield H430 Leaking
- Thread starter ivieto
- Start date
Sent a private message to the poster to provide more details with a photo. I am particularly asked if there are any caulked holes along the edges. I specified to post the photo and information here
This is the windshield. I have a heavy link in the port side. The second picture it´s the option are offering me here.. but I don´t like the idea. I´m in Costa Rica, with heavy sun, hot and humid all year round.
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Do not post private information on the forum. Do that by private message. I sent a private message to you which is secure.
sorry. I will post any updates
sorry. I will post any updates
If the glass is intact, it can be removed and re-bedded. Simple but laborious project.
Hunter factory documents are available here:
Your vessel documents: Index of /wp-content/export/Model-Information/430 Hunter 1993 - x
And the repair instructions:
Hunter factory documents are available here:
Your vessel documents: Index of /wp-content/export/Model-Information/430 Hunter 1993 - x
And the repair instructions:
@ivieto has not responded back to some questions I posed. First, is his windshield in one section or two pieces. Two pieces would indicate that it has been modified at one time or another. If one piece, careful scrutiny must be observed removing the windshield more so than in two pieces. The lines lead aft under the windshield to blocks underneath it. The windshield on the 430 Hunter is appx. seven feet long which is a molded acrylic piece. At this time, SBO does not have a windshield mold for that model but if you own a 430 and need to replace it in or near Florida, contact Al at SBO to minimize costs for making a mold.
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It is recommended that Dow 795 sealant which is the standard in the industry be used. There are screw holes in the windshield for temporary holding for the sealant to cure in 31 days. Then the screws need to be removed and the holes caulked with Dow 795. As a word of caution, make sure the screws are smaller than the holes in the windshield. Remember, plastics do expand and contract in hot and cold weather.
Products such as acetone should never be used as it will craze the windshield. In fact, there is a warning on Lexel as it will attack some plastics but not sure how it will affect acrylics. However; applying any sealant to the outside of any windshield is only a temporary fix as the seal to hold the windshield is broken. One possible cause is the use of dark windshield covers which is why I wanted to know the color of the shade. White and gray covers produce less heat and it appears to be a dark blue.
It suggested that you purchase a 6-8 inch cake spatula that has a flexible stainless steel rounded blade along with wood wedges. Make sure the wedges are low profile. If the windshield is seperated enough to get a small fishing line thru, you can use that to cut the old sealant by see sawing back and forth but it takes two people one inside and the other person outside.
Here is what I have done in the past as a dealer:
1. Remove the snaps that hold any covers over the windshieldl
2. Take a utility knife and cut the leading edges of the caulk from the windshield both inside and out. Remove any excess caulk
from any cavities between the windshield and deck if allowed.
3. If there is any separation of the windshield from the deck lip where I could get a fishing line through in order to cut the old
sealant, I would try that first. If not, I would use my cake spatula to stick in between the windshield and lip from the inside.
Then gently tap a wood wedge in being very careful not to apply much pressure. I would around with the spatula and
wood wedges till I got an opening which to put my fishing line thru which to cut the old caulk. You have to be very patient and
careful as it could take some time as one wrong mistake could result in a cracked windshield. When using the fishing line, it
needs to be level with the windshield vs. pulling upward while cutting the sealant.
4. Remove the remaining sealant from the windshield, holes in windshield and deck lip.
5. Tape the perimeter where the old caulk was on the deck so when the windshield is lowered into place, excess caulk does not
come in contact with the deck. Use of a drop cloth inside is suggested too and tape inside as well
6. Apply a bead of Dow 795 around the lip and then place windshield into position. Use your screws to screw down. Some have
used washers too. BE CAREFUL TO GENTLY TIGHTEN THE SCREWS ONLY!
7. Remove excess caulk both inside and outside using alcohol and smooth out the beads around the perimeter of windshield.
Then remove tape. After a month, remove the screws and caulk the holes with Dow 795
.
It is recommended that Dow 795 sealant which is the standard in the industry be used. There are screw holes in the windshield for temporary holding for the sealant to cure in 31 days. Then the screws need to be removed and the holes caulked with Dow 795. As a word of caution, make sure the screws are smaller than the holes in the windshield. Remember, plastics do expand and contract in hot and cold weather.
Products such as acetone should never be used as it will craze the windshield. In fact, there is a warning on Lexel as it will attack some plastics but not sure how it will affect acrylics. However; applying any sealant to the outside of any windshield is only a temporary fix as the seal to hold the windshield is broken. One possible cause is the use of dark windshield covers which is why I wanted to know the color of the shade. White and gray covers produce less heat and it appears to be a dark blue.
It suggested that you purchase a 6-8 inch cake spatula that has a flexible stainless steel rounded blade along with wood wedges. Make sure the wedges are low profile. If the windshield is seperated enough to get a small fishing line thru, you can use that to cut the old sealant by see sawing back and forth but it takes two people one inside and the other person outside.
Here is what I have done in the past as a dealer:
1. Remove the snaps that hold any covers over the windshieldl
2. Take a utility knife and cut the leading edges of the caulk from the windshield both inside and out. Remove any excess caulk
from any cavities between the windshield and deck if allowed.
3. If there is any separation of the windshield from the deck lip where I could get a fishing line through in order to cut the old
sealant, I would try that first. If not, I would use my cake spatula to stick in between the windshield and lip from the inside.
Then gently tap a wood wedge in being very careful not to apply much pressure. I would around with the spatula and
wood wedges till I got an opening which to put my fishing line thru which to cut the old caulk. You have to be very patient and
careful as it could take some time as one wrong mistake could result in a cracked windshield. When using the fishing line, it
needs to be level with the windshield vs. pulling upward while cutting the sealant.
4. Remove the remaining sealant from the windshield, holes in windshield and deck lip.
5. Tape the perimeter where the old caulk was on the deck so when the windshield is lowered into place, excess caulk does not
come in contact with the deck. Use of a drop cloth inside is suggested too and tape inside as well
6. Apply a bead of Dow 795 around the lip and then place windshield into position. Use your screws to screw down. Some have
used washers too. BE CAREFUL TO GENTLY TIGHTEN THE SCREWS ONLY!
7. Remove excess caulk both inside and outside using alcohol and smooth out the beads around the perimeter of windshield.
Then remove tape. After a month, remove the screws and caulk the holes with Dow 795
I just went through having to replace the original windshield which had developed a crack. I also have the one piece windshield half inch thick. My Hunter is a 1997 40.5 - I am in the long beach area and bought a 4 x 8 sheet and had plastic depot Use my original windshield as a template to make me a new one. I had it installed by someone who did not use the proper adhesive and therefore develops some very serious leaks at the corner edges. Nine months later, I had a very skilled and experienced, Guy remove and replace it with the proper material. He used a Sikaflex which cured in seven hours, and a full cure in 24 hours. It does not leak now. Upon removal, he cleaned bed on the fiberglass completely, and used 80 grip roughen both the windshield edge, and The mating surface.
